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  1. I recently tore down my banshee. It had a shifting problem and I fixed the problem with no troubles. Put it all back together, put brand new gaskets and seals on everything and torqued everything to specs. It seems like a fuel issue. The banshee is getting plenty of power to the plugs but they come out dry every time. I'm getting fuel to my carbs because it drains out of the settling bowl after I kick it a few times. It ran right when I took it apart. It almost seems like the reeds aren't opening for some reason. Any suggestions would be much appreciated. Thanks
  2. Hello all.. Im new to Bansheehq.com and to having a Shee as my main squeeze. Heres a bit of background on me.. I'm 36 and have been riding since I was 14. Started w/ a mojave and moved up to an 88' trx250r a couple years later. Since then ive owned quite a few 250r trikes, quadracers, a coule Shee's, trx450r, blaster, so forth and so on. Usually I pick up a bike cause its dirt cheap, tear it down and do a quick frame up on it so its pretty, and flip it. I really enjoy bringing life back to abused bikes for some reason. Anyhow, This is the first banshee Ive had as MY main ride. That being said, I'm new to the ins and outs of these bikes and would appreciate some input from you experinced guys out there. Im not a retarded douche like a lot of these new poster's i have read on here thus far. I have the tools/experience required to understand as well as complete any tasks recommended. I shouldnt say newbies are retarded but you know what i mean. Also, I have spent HOURS searching through past posts for info as to not waste anyones times w simple, already answered questions. . . I think. I apologize ahead of time for being long winded but I prefer to be overly thorough because I expect reply's to be thorough and equally well thought out.. I figure its better to waste my time typing possibly too much info, rather than wasting everyone elses.. That being said... here we go. So, I picked up a 2003 a couple years ago. Guy was supposed to squash the lein w/ my payment and get me the title but failed. Therefore I bought another bike a few months ago that had a clear title, etc. 2003 from couple years back: No title (not Hot), douglas beadlocks F&R, New rears, t5's, boost bottle, k&n, prm F&R bumper/grab, full skids, Virgin motor, paddles on rims, Misc bling.. bike runs very strong but looks quite neglected maintenance wise. New bike.. 2001: paid $1700.. Desert tank, cut plastics, tusk bars, twist, tors delete, UNI-pods, fresh top end, Paul Turner mids w fat boy 2s, Vforce2's, +2 a-arms, Elks stage 1's, trailtech lights, parking block off, braided lines, smoothies & paddles on polishes rims, brand new 22x8x10 shredders up front, 1.5 gal R50, and appears to be maintained very well.. super clean, reciepts for mods, etc. However, guy i purchased it from took it as debt payment so he had no first hand personal knowledge about jack shit but has a huge beautiful house w/ shop that you could eat off of. Guy seemed stand-up.. bout 55 yrs old. Bike ran like shit when i test rode it but it seemed like jetting and I saw enough good parts that it was worth it even if the motor was junk because the motor in my 03 was good so i bought it. And he gave me a couple weeks to come up w the cash so I couldnt pass it up. I live in AZ at 2800 ft elevation, i weigh 215, and ride aggresively compared to others my age around here it seems.. But maybe IM a total bitch compared to everyone on here.. who knows? So, 01' at home: Runs like piss. Open up the carbs and find a 250 main, 25 pilots and aftermarket needle.. and 30 pilots in the air filter side of the carbs intake (whatever tha jet is) . I open up the carbs off the 03 and find 280 mains, 25 pilots and aftermarket needles.. with factory airfilter side of carbs intake jets.. 2.4 or 1.6 or something like that. I put the 280s, 30s, and factory spec'd jets that are in the intake throat of the carb all in the 01 and find improvement. Ordered 27.5s, 290s, 300s, 310s, 330s, carb gaskets, filter oil, etc.. While waiting for delivery I checked a few other things. I checked the "static"? i think is the term.. compression by warming up, yanking both plugs, hook up snap-on comp tester, hold wide open, and kick kick kick kick kick... 182ish on the right and 178ish oin the left. Few hours research on this sight followed. Autozone trip (no race gas avail around here) to buy VP octane boost stuff. $20 a can, 1 can to 5 gal raises from 91 to 104-5 i believe it was. Oh, running r50 @ 40:1. wow, that helped ALOT! We're getting closer. Mailman drops off new jets.. Eventually found 300s w 27.5s worked best but still left a lot to be desired. Bike seemed to fall off fast and just burn through the gears really quickly. MPH seemed decent enough but it just FELT flat. New plugs.. nothing. reduced gap to .18-.20 from .26ish i think it was in case of weak ignition .. this seemed to help slightly. I checked for air leaks w can of carb cleaner and seemed to have one @ the reed block. Ordered new gaskets. Pulled vforce2s. I found that when i held a very bright flashlight up to the reeds, In only 3 of the 8 i could see light through them. However, it seemd to me that this was a natural effect from the weaving in production of the carbon fiber. Im talking about pinhole if not smaller sections of light. Maybe 4-8 "pixels" on each of the 3 reeds that allowed any light at all to pass through. I cleaned the reeds, flipped them, lightly buffed the edges with #0000 steel wool to polish any inperfections off that might keep the reed from seating properly against the cage. I used blue locktite upon re -assembly. Also, Some assfuck used some shit that was a nightmare to get off when installing the vforce2 cages. I COMPLETELY cleaned off the cages, boots, cylinders.. re-installed using light grease to tack the gaskets up and torqued to whatever it was this site said was correct (cant recall). I also cleaned and oiled the UNi-filters, put in 310s, and needle clipped at 2nd from the bottom (out of 6 postitons, so fat fat). Terrible results. Checked for air leaks and found nothing. Put in 330s, changed clip to 3rd from top (2 clips leaner), and put in 30 pilots. WAYYYYY better. WWAAYY better. On pavement just putting in third or even fourth, blip it and the front comes up. It took some serious effort to get the front end up prior. It still feels flat on the top 35% of the curve. Yanked the choke and it gets worse. Fat maybe? It just doesnt FEEL fat though. I didnt want to ride it very long in case of there being a lean condition. After 10-12 min of dicking around w 1 or 2 tops actual pinned banging gear trials ( letting out a second or two into 6th, clutch, kill, coast, check...) i didnt chop the plug but i thought this might be better than not checking at all. Strap changed color almost at weld but not quite.. closer to the top of gthe bend. Color looked good. Base ring looked as if it was a new plug. No oil or anything on the plug anywhere. One side of the strap was colored dif though, lighter just on the one edge. DId some more reading on this site. Found the orange and black coil wires were backwards as many are.. corrected. Too late at this point to check for improvement. Im getting closer but it still feels like im a good ways off from how it should be. I checked the cylinders when i removed the reed blocks and found they are unported. Ive basically took anything worth a shit off of the 03' and put it on the 01': beadlocks, bumper, grab, skids, tires, billet bling, etc. I noticed that the 01' has a vibration near idle. rev and when rpms fall and approach idle the motor vibes enough to shake the whole bike. Once its back at idle it ceases to vibe. Im wondering if this is normal or if maybe ive got a weak bottom end. I honestly dont recall the 03 doing that but i only rode it once. My gut tells me its not good ( the vibe). My plan was to part out the 03' in order to recoup funds put out on the 01'. If the 01' has A flawed motor, maybe i should keep the 03 motor? Or should i just ebay it and take the G i get for it and hope its enough to address any issues i might run into with this motor? The 01' seems to require more effort than it should when shifting. You have to really focus on pulling the lever completely up with deliberate force, otherwise it stays in whatever gear its in. Im not sure if this is cluth or trans issue. The suspension on this thing blows goats. I get a weird weight transfer feedback loop kinda thing that ends up w the bike bouncing front ot back in a way whenever theres any kind of rapid suspension work to be done. Doesnt seem right either. If im rolling down the way and quickley compress and the neg load the bike, the front wheels come off the ground. Increase rebound or rebuild? I increased the rebound and it seems beytter but still fuct to be honest. Im thining just doing the stage 3 elka kit when i can.. next 6 months maybe. next/mods: chain/sprockets..13/41 im thinkning, climer manual and check electrical specs, Try some 32.5 pilots, order some 320, 340, 360 mains and play with those, replace anything electrical that seems not to function according to spec, timing plate, reeds? does it sound like they need replaced ( they were set on high setting), port cylinders.. If my crank is factory doesn 180 seem high on the comp? should i worry about that? maybe weld crank before port so i dont break shit? Oh yeah, Id like to get a leakdown tester/kit but just dont have the time to build one myself. Id prefer to build one but just have too much other shit mentally going on. If someone has a used one, wants to build one, etc, I i am open to bartering all kinds of stuff from banshee parts, quality car audio, american (snapon, mac, matco, proto, sk, etc) tools, sbc perf parts, other powersports misc parts ( i have an ebay business) .. I have lots of quality guy stuff. Im a stand up honest man of my word kinda guy and expect the same with anyoine who wants to do business/barter.. Basically im looking for some logical advice from anyone whos learned the hard way so that i dont have to. I dont want to half ass anything or risk damage. I prefer to be safe rather than sorry and if i have to pull shit apart, i might as well put it back together with better shit since im already there, or at least thoroughly inspect, check, do anything required for peace of mind. However, i dont have cash to waste on doing shit that isnt required. Id rather spend some $ on preliminary things required for a reliable motor prior to modding it.. (makinf sure i have no air leaks, elec is working proper, jetted right, reeds r good, yada yada). You know what i mean. Any input or advice on repairing, improving, or preventing failure of any part of my bike is greatly appreciated. I thank you for taking the time to read this and will take all valuable relevant input seriously and perform advised procedures accordingly, not forgetting to respond with results either. Thanks guys. Much appreciated!!
  3. I have a 97 banshee with serval cub 68/58 with cooling head 26 cc dooms v4 reeds and t5 pipes stock carbs main jets @ 370 and my pilots 27 1/2 trying to get the max power out my beast should I go up to 30 pilot and if I do will I have to go up a size on my main jet ooo n I'm @ sea level
  4. Hi there. I have a 2000 husqvarna wr 250. I just purchased the bike down in sacramento about 4 days ago which is about 1000 ft i think. it was working fine when i got it., started first kick. I then bought it up to lake tahoe which is about 6500ft. i rode it for 2 days and was working well but started blowing some blue smoke. Then on the 3rd ride it just crapped out. I think i need to re jet it but not sure what jets i need. It wont kick over. I have check the piston rings and spark plug and that's not the problem. At the moment it has. Mikuni carb. Main jet. 360 Pilot jet. 20 What should i have for 6500ft???
  5. 550 ft elevation , fmf fatty, boyesen dual stage reeds, maxima 927 40:1 mix, k&n pods. 260 main/30 pilot. jus removed my tors, did the eliminator kit, and installed new dual stage reeds. ordered a 290 main since the reeds richen the main jet but the reeds lean the pilot so it kinda like bogs/farts when i give it gas starting from idle, my air screw are about 1.5 turns out and new idle screws are all the way in far as can go. im thinking its doing this from not enough gas but when i turn the screws in more the idle doesnt sound as nice and tuned as it should, and with my idle screws pulled out any it wont idle by itself without me giving it throttle.. should i go up a size in the pilot jet? P.S.also i got my throttle close to being snappy as possible if i have it with too much play the bike will just start right up bog real quick and die out, my guess is from not enough gas b/c when i rev it high it sounds good braaap but when i low rev it slightly buurps any support is appreciated, Thanks
  6. 96 banshee, 545ft above sea, with tors, fmf fatty exhaust, kn pods, stock carbs 260 main, 30 pilot.. banshee was running fine.. removed the tors black box computer, kick started idled smooth and fine...installed tors eliminator new throttle cable tors idle screw new carb caps, and a pair of boyesen dual stage power reeds.. put the shee back together and now shee wont start can this be a jetting issue? if so what size should i run?? how tight should air screw be? help would be great, thanks
  7. Ok so I have a 2000 banshee that wasn't running perfect, it would bog and have poor throttle responce when I would punch it in the 1-2 gears. But it would start up and idle normal with 1-2 kicks. The intake boots cracked, so I took changed them out and put some new ones in, while I was at it I removed the stock air box that had the lid removed and had a k&n filter. I put some k&n filter pods in. Along with that I'm pretty sure this has no effect with the idle but I also removed the coolent resivor. As for all the jetting specs I currently do not know them. What the bike has motor wise is 4mill, cool head and 17cc domes using liquid ice coolent, stock jugs .030 over, tors gone, boost bottle, 4+ timing, vforce reeds, and I'm running 91 gas with redline 2t oil 50:1 ratio. Something that I noticed kinda weird about it is when I got it (about two weeks ago) the previous owner had the idle screws in all the way and air screw 2.5 turns out. Just a reminder it didn't want to idle any more after I changed the cracked boots for new ones, removed the air box for pods, and removed the coolent resivor. Hope to get some helpful answer this, thanks to all way head of time
  8. Ok so I'll make it simple for now there's more mods to the motor, but for now I'm currently running stock carbs and vforce reeds what do you guys think if I put a 2 in 1 intake on a 4 mill?? Will it loose power? Can it gain more power? Better throttle response? More speed less speed? Good or bad idea? What are the pros and cons of a 2 in 1 on a 4mill? If good idea what size carb is good and what intake? Thanks for the help
  9. Hello everyone! I recently bought my second banshee (4mill). Bike is 2000 with stroker, Coolhead 21 or 19cc domes believe, vforce reeds, r1000 clutch, magura hydralic clutch lever, +4 timing advance, t5's, tors eliminator, bored .030 over,running 50:1 ratio, stock carb(don't know current jetting) that's all I can think of right now motor. Bike is strong and fast as shit! It starts 1-2 kicks every time and idles fine. Problem is 1-2 gear has really bad low end throttle response and at times bogs. Once it catches speed bike takes off and problem goes away. I'm thinking it's jetting? I'm horrible when it comes to that
  10. I have a 2005 Banshee with ToomeyT6 ,a trinity stage 4 2in1 intake with a Keihin 35mm carb. What jets should I be running? mostly ride around 1700 to 4000 elevation. Occasionally ill drop down 300's -Glamis what else would affect what jets I should be running? thanks in advance
  11. Ok so I bought a completely stock 1996 banshee last fall and it ran great into the winter. I did some work to it while it was sitting, fmf fatty gold series pipes with power core II silencers, v-force 4 reeds, and a k&n air filter. I went ahead to replaced my main jets from the stock 200, to the 260 that came with the pipes. (My elevation is around 1000ft above sea level, running temp is 60-90). I don't think jetting is the problem, but I might be wrong. Now here's what happens. I need starter fluid to start it. And when it fires, usually first kick, I have to keep on the throttle to keep it running. It will rev low and when I give it a touch more gas it will rev very high for a couple seconds even after I let off the throttle. And when I'm holding a steady throttle position, it seems like I have no control over how high and low the engine revs. Possible air leak? There's not much smoke coming out of the pipes when running. My pipes are hot after only a minute of running. So I switched my pilot jet from stock 25, to 27.5 and my main from a 260, to 310. Still does the same thing. Also I should add that the TORS is still on the carbs and hooked up.....unfortunately. Any help is appreciated, please hurry, I WANNA RIDE!!!
  12. Running full t5s, 4mm stroker crank, bored 65mm, 20cc dome heads, v force reds just need a starting point temperature is 40 and rising
  13. Hey guys, I'm a brand new Banshee owner,that is I'm new to Banshees I wish I had a brand new Banshee lol! I've owened quads since I was 17 and I'm 34 now. I'm mechanically inclined and catch on quick so here goes. After deciding to look for a project banshee I found one within a week,picked her up and brough her home. It's a 2000 model with a clean title and in pretty good shape chassis wise. It has new carbon fiber plastics, new pro elite bumper,new pro elite nerfs, new ITP hole shots on black SS wheels DMC exhaust a cool head and I believe that's about it. The engine is dead I pulled the top end and it broke a ring and trashed the right side jug and dome. I've decided to build a 421 4 mil serval after a lot of research. I think it'll work best for what I want to do with it. I mostly play ride with my sons,wife and friends but want to be able to readily spank some guys at the local mix park sand drag strip. My boys are 9 and 11 and both own 400ex's I also own a yfz450 with quite a few mods , a blaster ,TRX450 and a 660 Grizz. The engine: I went ahead and pulled the lower end threw it on the bench and have it ready to split tomorrow (had to wait for flywheel puller). I want to open it up for 2 reasons I want to learn the banshee engine inside and out like my other quads power plants and I want to make sure there's no trash in the crankcase. I plan to go back with the stock jugs .060 over with a set of Vito's forged super stock pistons and run it like that until I save for the serval build. With all that out of the way, I have a few questions. 1.) what kind of horse power can I expect the 421 4 mil to make? I'm not asking for a human dyno here, I know a lot of factors come into play. It seems 2 strokes really make power easily so Imagine that it can just as easily be hindered by improper tuning etc. i want to run 93 pump gas most of the time and fuel when I take it out to play at the drag strip. I know that the DMC pipes will have to go I plan to run Shearer pipes on it. 2.) what jetting is recommended for the set up I plan to run first? Mods will be ; .060 over stock jugs,no porting, DMC,cool head with 20cc domes. My elevation is 86' and temps are between 40-60 in winter and 90-110 in summer. 3.) jetting increments, On my other quads the numbers are as follows for example 48 pilot,175 main. I noticed when browsing jet kits the main sizes are 300-310-320 etc. Are all the banshee jets numbered this way, when I say banshee I mean the Mikuni carbs. If so is there some sort of crossover chart or something? if not can some one help me out with what stock jetting is for main and pilot jets so I kinda have an idea where to start. 4.) when I build the Serval is there any work needed on the cases like clearancing or anything? Also can I or if I have additional port work done on the Serval jugs or the cases will it adversely affect the low-mid range? I think that's it for now, didn't mean to write a novel but this is my first ever 2 stroke and the only way to learn is to ask. So im askin. Thank you guys in advance. I'll get my profile sorted out as soon as I can. I belong to a few other forums and I know about the whole "use the search button" thing lol. I did trust me, I've been reading for a week. Just needed more specific answeres to my questions.
  14. I have a banshee and i wanna purchase new jets for it since the ones it has are old and i can't even see what size it has on. The bike seems to really bog at low rpms but then again banshee's are like that, but here are my specs: Full Fmf Powercore 2 Stock Reeds Stock Carbs 32:1 Mix Ratio Airbox w. Lid Off Foam Filter w. Filterwear Elevation 600Ft > Temperature 80-90 F High Humidity
  15. I have a banshee and i wanna purchase new jets for it since the ones it has are old and i can't even see what size it has on. The bike seems to really bog at low rpms but then again banshee's are like that, but here are my specs: Full Fmf Powercore 2 Stock Reeds Stock Carbs 32:1 Mix Ratio Airbox w. Lid Off Foam Filter w. Filterwear Elevation 600Ft > Temperature 80-90 F High Humidity
  16. Hey guys im brand new on bansheehq. Just got my first banshee a few days ago. Its a 1999 with full t5 pipes and k&n. When I test rode it, it ran great. So I bought it and took it home. decided to clean everything up. Cleaned the airfilter, powerwashed it and changed the tranny oil and drained the fuel. Previous owner was running yamalube 2s in it at around 28:1, I changed it to Klotz BeNol at 32:1. ever since I did this it has started running bad on that one cylinder, Not smoking as much as the right cylinder and backfiring. I then proceeded to take the carbs off and clean them up. found out im running 240 mains, which I think is to lean. But that still doesn't tell me why one cylinder is running bad. Thanks guys
  17. Hey everyone. I just got a 2002 banshee. It's has Fmf fatty gold pipes and toomey silencers. Banshee idles great after warm up and really gets going. Jetting seems off thought Haven't taken out carbs but bike seems to bog or want to stall below half throttle unless I ease it on. Once I'm passed that it really gets going. Plugs are black but they haven't fouled. I plan on going riding up in el mirage which is 2000 ft above where I'm at. Also if I turn on the choke half way the quad will turn off. That's a rich condition on the pilot and maybe needle right? At wot the quad really hauls though. What would be proper jetting for el mirage. Elevation is around 3000 and temp will be in the mid 90s.
  18. When I bought my banshee back in 2007, T5's were already on there. Toomey's website suggests using their perfect jetting kit with the pipes, but when I pull the carbs apart, what sizes are the perfect jets? if the jets are stock sizes than i know the kit wasn't installed, so what are stock sizes? Any help would be greatly appreciated!
  19. Hello everyone. I have recently bought a yamaha banshee. Anyway I am worried that the jetting may be off, and I want to re adjust it. The guys I bought it from had their jetting at a 240 main. Uni pod filters Fmf fatty pipes and silencer 19cc domes V force reeds if I remember correctly Boost bottle idk if that matters Mixed at 32:1 with yamalube 2r, 93 octane. Height is sea level Temp is about 70-80 degrees I was wondering what you guys would recommend for the main jets, pilots, needle clip. Any advice is great, thanks.
  20. My 4 mil long rod Banshee runs strong. We ride at the Oregon dunes. It has stock carb bored out to 28mm. Compression is at 180 psi.(110 octane fuel). I have 310 mains in it now. Banshee # 2 has stock head milled and carb bored out to 28mm also. don't know what it has for mains. Just bought it. We are going to St Anthony's over the 4th holiday. They run great at sea level, but St Anthony's is at 4000 -5000 ft. above sea level. What mains should I run there? Just want to get them as close as I can so I can spend my time riding instead of tuning. Thanks, Tony
  21. Hey Guys , new to this site and just looking for some jetting expertise. I have a 1999 banshee stock air box with FMF Powercore II exhaust, K&N filter, no other real mods motor was a fresh rebuild last year. Ive been messing around trying to get it bang on but haven't hit it yet. Its idling very low when warmed up and will die out if I let it sit, just changed to a 270 main, pilot is 25 ( I think too small ?) air screws 2 out clip mid position. it has a bog at low idle 0-1000 rpm ...pilot too small ? any help appreciated, elevation roughly 1000
  22. I recently got a 7 mil built. It has a dune port with pod airfilters with no box and 34mm mikuni flat slides and im running 114 race gas at a 40:1. It idles fine but quickly bogs and wont rev out what so ever. I thought it could be a jetting problem so I was wondering what a suggestion would be for my jetting? It has 330s in it right now.
  23. I just build a 10mm Serval cub (465) as cast. I'm running pods, 35mm carbs, chariot intakes, VF4 reeds, chariot cool head with 24cc domes (kicking compression 155lbs), shearer SB in frames. Timing is set at +5 with all stock ignition minus the timing plate. Fuel of choice right now is Avgas mixed 50:1 with Amsoil. Leakdown test held 6lbs solid for 1.5 hours. Right now I'm running into a problem that im hoping you guys can help me with. Im running 42 pilots, 135 mains, cgm needle on top clip. My machine is acting rich but i feel like im way to low to go any leaner. When my machine gets under heavy load like when hill shooting it has a hard time staying in the powerband. as if my pipes can't clear and its bogging out. Here are a few video clips of me out testing and tuning let me know what you guys think. This was with a 148 main this was with the 142 main I picked up more speed with a 140, 138, 135.... but im worried about being way to lean. Any other issues you guys might be able to lead me toward or is it just a jetting deal is all?
  24. Have a fresh top end with just barely enuf time for break in. Stock bore .Wiseco pro-lites. 21cc domes. Vf4 reeds. T6 pipes. "i know they suck but got brand new set for 300$ "stock mikuni carbs. Tors removed. Stock box. lid removed pro flo adapter with K&n filter with outerwear. Currently at 150 and 152 psi. Elevation is from 600ft to 1300ft. Mixing 32:1 with 93 octane. Stock pilots stock needle on 5th clip 1.5 turns out and 280 mains. Bike starts just doesn't wana idle cold . Do i need to up the pilot to maybe a 27.5 or go on to a .30 To cure the idle problem? Haven't really got to open up to get on the main jet because i smoked the clutch within 30 mins after the build. but I'm pretty sure i need to fatten both main and pilots?? Temp is bout 60 to 70 here in middle Tn rite now .Thanks for any input
  25. Have a fresh top end with just barely enuf time for break in. Stock bore .Wiseco pro-lites. 21cc domes. Vf4 reeds. T6 pipes. "i know they suck but got brand new set for 300$ "stock mikuni carbs. Tors removed. Stock box. lid removed pro flo adapter with K&n filter with outerwear. Currently at 150 and 152 psi. Elevation is from 600ft to 1300ft. Mixing 32:1 with 93 octane. Stock pilots stock needle on 5th clip 1.5 turns out and 280 mains. Bike starts just doesn't wana idle cold . Do i need to up the pilot to maybe a 27.5 or go on to a .30 To cure the idle problem? Haven't really got to open up to get on the main jet because i smoked the clutch within 30 mins after the build. but I'm pretty sure i need to fatten both main and pilots?? Temp is bout 60 to 70 here in middle Tn rite now .Thanks for any input
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