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Showing results for tags 'timing'.
Sorry for the noob questions, but i'm weary about installing an adjustable timing plate. People say that with the advanced timing and higher compression, there will be more stress put on my crank and other components. Is this true? Is advancing the timing worth it? Just looking for other opinions, thanks.
Hello all.. Im new to Bansheehq.com and to having a Shee as my main squeeze. Heres a bit of background on me.. I'm 36 and have been riding since I was 14. Started w/ a mojave and moved up to an 88' trx250r a couple years later. Since then ive owned quite a few 250r trikes, quadracers, a coule Shee's, trx450r, blaster, so forth and so on. Usually I pick up a bike cause its dirt cheap, tear it down and do a quick frame up on it so its pretty, and flip it. I really enjoy bringing life back to abused bikes for some reason. Anyhow, This is the first banshee Ive had as MY main ride. That being said, I'm new to the ins and outs of these bikes and would appreciate some input from you experinced guys out there. Im not a retarded douche like a lot of these new poster's i have read on here thus far. I have the tools/experience required to understand as well as complete any tasks recommended. I shouldnt say newbies are retarded but you know what i mean. Also, I have spent HOURS searching through past posts for info as to not waste anyones times w simple, already answered questions. . . I think. I apologize ahead of time for being long winded but I prefer to be overly thorough because I expect reply's to be thorough and equally well thought out.. I figure its better to waste my time typing possibly too much info, rather than wasting everyone elses.. That being said... here we go. So, I picked up a 2003 a couple years ago. Guy was supposed to squash the lein w/ my payment and get me the title but failed. Therefore I bought another bike a few months ago that had a clear title, etc. 2003 from couple years back: No title (not Hot), douglas beadlocks F&R, New rears, t5's, boost bottle, k&n, prm F&R bumper/grab, full skids, Virgin motor, paddles on rims, Misc bling.. bike runs very strong but looks quite neglected maintenance wise. New bike.. 2001: paid $1700.. Desert tank, cut plastics, tusk bars, twist, tors delete, UNI-pods, fresh top end, Paul Turner mids w fat boy 2s, Vforce2's, +2 a-arms, Elks stage 1's, trailtech lights, parking block off, braided lines, smoothies & paddles on polishes rims, brand new 22x8x10 shredders up front, 1.5 gal R50, and appears to be maintained very well.. super clean, reciepts for mods, etc. However, guy i purchased it from took it as debt payment so he had no first hand personal knowledge about jack shit but has a huge beautiful house w/ shop that you could eat off of. Guy seemed stand-up.. bout 55 yrs old. Bike ran like shit when i test rode it but it seemed like jetting and I saw enough good parts that it was worth it even if the motor was junk because the motor in my 03 was good so i bought it. And he gave me a couple weeks to come up w the cash so I couldnt pass it up. I live in AZ at 2800 ft elevation, i weigh 215, and ride aggresively compared to others my age around here it seems.. But maybe IM a total bitch compared to everyone on here.. who knows? So, 01' at home: Runs like piss. Open up the carbs and find a 250 main, 25 pilots and aftermarket needle.. and 30 pilots in the air filter side of the carbs intake (whatever tha jet is) . I open up the carbs off the 03 and find 280 mains, 25 pilots and aftermarket needles.. with factory airfilter side of carbs intake jets.. 2.4 or 1.6 or something like that. I put the 280s, 30s, and factory spec'd jets that are in the intake throat of the carb all in the 01 and find improvement. Ordered 27.5s, 290s, 300s, 310s, 330s, carb gaskets, filter oil, etc.. While waiting for delivery I checked a few other things. I checked the "static"? i think is the term.. compression by warming up, yanking both plugs, hook up snap-on comp tester, hold wide open, and kick kick kick kick kick... 182ish on the right and 178ish oin the left. Few hours research on this sight followed. Autozone trip (no race gas avail around here) to buy VP octane boost stuff. $20 a can, 1 can to 5 gal raises from 91 to 104-5 i believe it was. Oh, running r50 @ 40:1. wow, that helped ALOT! We're getting closer. Mailman drops off new jets.. Eventually found 300s w 27.5s worked best but still left a lot to be desired. Bike seemed to fall off fast and just burn through the gears really quickly. MPH seemed decent enough but it just FELT flat. New plugs.. nothing. reduced gap to .18-.20 from .26ish i think it was in case of weak ignition .. this seemed to help slightly. I checked for air leaks w can of carb cleaner and seemed to have one @ the reed block. Ordered new gaskets. Pulled vforce2s. I found that when i held a very bright flashlight up to the reeds, In only 3 of the 8 i could see light through them. However, it seemd to me that this was a natural effect from the weaving in production of the carbon fiber. Im talking about pinhole if not smaller sections of light. Maybe 4-8 "pixels" on each of the 3 reeds that allowed any light at all to pass through. I cleaned the reeds, flipped them, lightly buffed the edges with #0000 steel wool to polish any inperfections off that might keep the reed from seating properly against the cage. I used blue locktite upon re -assembly. Also, Some assfuck used some shit that was a nightmare to get off when installing the vforce2 cages. I COMPLETELY cleaned off the cages, boots, cylinders.. re-installed using light grease to tack the gaskets up and torqued to whatever it was this site said was correct (cant recall). I also cleaned and oiled the UNi-filters, put in 310s, and needle clipped at 2nd from the bottom (out of 6 postitons, so fat fat). Terrible results. Checked for air leaks and found nothing. Put in 330s, changed clip to 3rd from top (2 clips leaner), and put in 30 pilots. WAYYYYY better. WWAAYY better. On pavement just putting in third or even fourth, blip it and the front comes up. It took some serious effort to get the front end up prior. It still feels flat on the top 35% of the curve. Yanked the choke and it gets worse. Fat maybe? It just doesnt FEEL fat though. I didnt want to ride it very long in case of there being a lean condition. After 10-12 min of dicking around w 1 or 2 tops actual pinned banging gear trials ( letting out a second or two into 6th, clutch, kill, coast, check...) i didnt chop the plug but i thought this might be better than not checking at all. Strap changed color almost at weld but not quite.. closer to the top of gthe bend. Color looked good. Base ring looked as if it was a new plug. No oil or anything on the plug anywhere. One side of the strap was colored dif though, lighter just on the one edge. DId some more reading on this site. Found the orange and black coil wires were backwards as many are.. corrected. Too late at this point to check for improvement. Im getting closer but it still feels like im a good ways off from how it should be. I checked the cylinders when i removed the reed blocks and found they are unported. Ive basically took anything worth a shit off of the 03' and put it on the 01': beadlocks, bumper, grab, skids, tires, billet bling, etc. I noticed that the 01' has a vibration near idle. rev and when rpms fall and approach idle the motor vibes enough to shake the whole bike. Once its back at idle it ceases to vibe. Im wondering if this is normal or if maybe ive got a weak bottom end. I honestly dont recall the 03 doing that but i only rode it once. My gut tells me its not good ( the vibe). My plan was to part out the 03' in order to recoup funds put out on the 01'. If the 01' has A flawed motor, maybe i should keep the 03 motor? Or should i just ebay it and take the G i get for it and hope its enough to address any issues i might run into with this motor? The 01' seems to require more effort than it should when shifting. You have to really focus on pulling the lever completely up with deliberate force, otherwise it stays in whatever gear its in. Im not sure if this is cluth or trans issue. The suspension on this thing blows goats. I get a weird weight transfer feedback loop kinda thing that ends up w the bike bouncing front ot back in a way whenever theres any kind of rapid suspension work to be done. Doesnt seem right either. If im rolling down the way and quickley compress and the neg load the bike, the front wheels come off the ground. Increase rebound or rebuild? I increased the rebound and it seems beytter but still fuct to be honest. Im thining just doing the stage 3 elka kit when i can.. next 6 months maybe. next/mods: chain/sprockets..13/41 im thinkning, climer manual and check electrical specs, Try some 32.5 pilots, order some 320, 340, 360 mains and play with those, replace anything electrical that seems not to function according to spec, timing plate, reeds? does it sound like they need replaced ( they were set on high setting), port cylinders.. If my crank is factory doesn 180 seem high on the comp? should i worry about that? maybe weld crank before port so i dont break shit? Oh yeah, Id like to get a leakdown tester/kit but just dont have the time to build one myself. Id prefer to build one but just have too much other shit mentally going on. If someone has a used one, wants to build one, etc, I i am open to bartering all kinds of stuff from banshee parts, quality car audio, american (snapon, mac, matco, proto, sk, etc) tools, sbc perf parts, other powersports misc parts ( i have an ebay business) .. I have lots of quality guy stuff. Im a stand up honest man of my word kinda guy and expect the same with anyoine who wants to do business/barter.. Basically im looking for some logical advice from anyone whos learned the hard way so that i dont have to. I dont want to half ass anything or risk damage. I prefer to be safe rather than sorry and if i have to pull shit apart, i might as well put it back together with better shit since im already there, or at least thoroughly inspect, check, do anything required for peace of mind. However, i dont have cash to waste on doing shit that isnt required. Id rather spend some $ on preliminary things required for a reliable motor prior to modding it.. (makinf sure i have no air leaks, elec is working proper, jetted right, reeds r good, yada yada). You know what i mean. Any input or advice on repairing, improving, or preventing failure of any part of my bike is greatly appreciated. I thank you for taking the time to read this and will take all valuable relevant input seriously and perform advised procedures accordingly, not forgetting to respond with results either. Thanks guys. Much appreciated!!
Hey Everybody, New tio the site and like what i've seen so far. Just put a Noss head with 20cc domes on my banshee, and it is popping from mid to top. runs great down low. Before the head it had right around 120psi on both cylinders, after it is right at 160psi. I'm at sea level at that pressure, and was wondering if there is any way I can run Pump Gas still (93 octane) with that compression or is that what my problem is? I have an adjustable timing plate that ranges from 10* retarded to 10* advanced. I was wondering if I could add some timing and maybe get it to stop popping, or am I going to have to run a mix of race fuel and pump gas. Thnaks in advance for the help