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stock-ish

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  1. Seems like a good price to me. :biggrin: I bought one last month for my T-day trip to Glamis wish I saw this first. http://cgi.ebay.com/Helmet-cam-camera-syst...1QQcmdZViewItem
  2. I was reading in the paper they sold myspace for 580 mil... damn
  3. I know it has been a while but busy at work. Checked the compression and was about 100 to 110 in that range. I did a wet compression test and it was 120. What is the comp spec? Am I looking at collapsed rings or possible reed failure? thanks
  4. thanks for the hlep. It does sound like lack of compression or piston issue. I didn't do the break in on the rings my buddy( the owner) did it (it just lives at my house and so I get to use it when it is running that is). I told him what to do but I justgot the sand rail finished and wanted to drive it. Do you think if he overheated it (several times) and beat on it the rings never got a chance to seat or beak in? ANd that could be the problem? I did hone the cyl wall with a stone hone and cleaned the out well. I will check compression. If it is low how do I check if the pistons are good? Did I mic them like a 4 stroke bike? thanks
  5. oh it a 97 if that matters and had aftermarket sator with adjustable timing. It is set at zero. maybe it should be retarded? Also found it is missing a spring holding one of the headered on and the couplers from headpipe to muffler pipe are leaking ex. Not bad but some.
  6. I just rebulit this sill thing (had cases spilt for trans issue) So I put rings in it. I put it together took it to pismo and overheating. had 310 main with needle clip in the middle--pulled carbs put needle at full rich, better still not right Bumped to 320 mains and put needle in one lean fron full rich. Took back to pismo with some engine ice. (inspected h20 pump and rad all seemed ok) Ran great, it is the back up bike so I had my girl riding it. It was her first time salot of lugging and reving. She was going slow I would check it out temp wise, ok. Here is the problem after the first day I jumped on it and it had lost all of the low end. Like it was stuck in 2 or 3rd gear. I would have to rap it up to the moon then dump clutch. Plug still looks good. ANd rips once you get the R's up, very fast Should I go higher on the jet? anyone know? I am about ready to give up anyone know of a place in San Jose that is good I could take it too. This thing is kicking my ass. This is the first 2 stroke I have ever mess with so I am a little confused
  7. maybe it is because you weak,you dont fix your own bike, you cant ride, your lady stole you balls and shoved them in her purse and you smell funny?? Any of that help? J/K I took it up to a 320 and dropped the neddle one. Now one lean from most rich Pulled the water pump out it looked rust coloured but had all the blades. Checked the radiatior for blockage with IR temp gun, seemed ok. Pulled the rad cap and tried to pressure test but didn't have the right adaptor. Looked worn to hell and was loose on the rad so I replaced it. Flushed the system and added Engine Ice. $20 for a 1/2 gallon, it better be as good as they say. Cleaned air filter hecked plug for signs of water or lean- seemed ok deffinantly not rich before new jets Straightned fins on radiatior checked for un meter air leaks- nothing Found ex leak at the head pipe to the head. Spring broke (ordered) Found ex leak head pipe where the mufflers bolt on. Sliicon hose has worn though. It wouldn't over heat here in the driveway but couldn't run it too long. Did get up to 200 deg F but what is normal? anyone know?
  8. Yeah I found the broken bolt and replaced the shoft lever, shift drum, shift forks I will pull that cover off and check the spring thanks
  9. assume I will try it
  10. 97 with fmf fatty pipes and air box I just rebuild this bike and I am about ready to toss it. It wont idle. Will start but not always first kick sometime takes a while and once running have to hold it open if RPM gets to low it will die I just spilt cases replaced shift drum and forks, clutch and baskets. while I was there did this rings and put in new spark plugs pulled the carbs apart and found a bent needle. Rebuilt carbs and change the main jet from stock to a 310 (thanks HQ for that help) It runs way better up top. Also moved the needle clip from full rich to one up (leaner) from that. I did not replace the pilot jets I didn;t remove them either when I dipped the carb. I did however install new float needle and seat and adjusted the float level. It was apart for 4-5 months so I dont know if I switched any parts from one carb to the other if that couls be a problem. The tors system has been disconected but not removed. I am 1.5 turns out on the little screw at an angle and I dont know on the others they book I have doesn't have them. They are horizontal and brass with a nut. And what are he ones on top of the thing on top of the carb. About the size of a dime and only visible with seat off. please help me
  11. I dont have that book I guess I will have to go out and get. I have the reprint from the dealer. It sucks well the pics do. I have had the cover off on that side and just got the cases back together. A bolt had seared off in the case and the bike would not shift at all. At least I fixed something. This bike make me feel like I cant fix a sandwich help, any one else have an idea?
  12. alright, thanks. I cant get the damn thing to idle I figure I need to find out what all the screws do. It will run if I hold the throttle open but bogs down at idle. Oh and the screws I am talking about are brass if that helps
  13. I ran a search on this one but dont even know what to call them I am adjusting the carbs on the banshee and there is one screw on the left hand side of each carb with a nut on it. I have no idea what it does and deosn't seem to effect the running. They go right though into the card around the slide area. Are they trottle stops? Cant find them in the book either (not the the black and white photos are much good. thanks for the help
  14. I tried serching but couldn't find anything about this. (kinda scary) The shifter has too much play in it. About 2-2.5 inches up and down. It is not the shift lever it is in the rod that goes though and to the other side It seems to be in the case at the star wheel for the shift drum where the selelctor engauges it. The shift drum and shift forks forks are tight. I cant for the life of me figure out why it would be so sloppy, all apears to be normal and in good condition. thanks for the help
  15. cool thanks for the help. I believe the pervious owner removed the tors so I will check to see if any of it is still there. Any base line jet sizes to start with so I can check that too. @ see level thank again
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