Banchetta

sounds like you have PJ carbs from keihin... the black knob is the choke when you pull it, but is also the idle when you turn it out...7 turns out from seated should be your idle or close.

Try some DEK or EEK needles....alot of times the pwk carbs need more fuel on the bottom, but not the idle circuit....another thing, is that if your carbs are too big, your jetting will be VERY hard to tune...you will also lose power. Do you have porting?

The carb overflow is leaking, then pull the carb and readjust the floats inside...next, make sure the choke tube is in place between the carbs (1/4"x2"), next make sure the cutaways in the slides face the airbox, if not, then swap the carb tops.

Change the plugs...what kind of oil do you run? Ratio?

If you don't tell us your symptoms, then how are we able to help you??? Most 28 carbs are from other bikes, so the needle taper will be way off base...where did you get yours?

Wow, I can't believe everyone on here perfers pc pipes for trails and sand pits........ Both your choices aren't great nor are the T5's...you want a midrange pipe that'll pull you to the top, not rev up and just spin and slow down as you climb....trust me, I built my shee for sand pits, hill climbing, trails....Get Pt mids if you can afford them, I see them on ebay all the time. If you can't afford them, then my second choice would be the fmf sst's or fmf gnarlies....they both pull nicely on the bottom, the sst's have a better pull on top.

Raise your needles to the 4th clip..................................

2nd to 4th gear trails , go w/ some PT mids, but for dunes, I'd go for the T5's, they pull decent on bottom and really good on top......if the trais are fast, then go for the T5's for later on upgrades since they like other mods...If you don't think you'll ever mod it anymore (ya right), then get some T6's, they have better low end then the T5's, but don't react as well to porting etc...

You need a 160 mains, needle 2nd clip, 42 pilots......This is a good starting point.

290 mains, needle 4th clip, stock pilot, make sure the carbs are synchronized, and the choke tube is in place between the carbs..sounds to me the choke tube isn't there...1/4"x2".

290 mains, needle 4th clip, stock pilots, air screws to be adjust for best throttle response....this should be exactly what you need. I've done some jetting in Glamis w/ your setup..pretty much the same specs as my area....

Grey plugs indicate your running not enough oil in the gas....put some oil in her!!!! Mix a tank of gas at 32:1, plugs will turn brown after that.

Its your jetting, electrical would do it at high rpms as well...What are your mods, jetting??? Have you tried raising the needles? You have a lean condition. Where do your air screws like to be at? .5 turn out or 2.5 turns out?

You can't compare numbers w/ different dynos for one....two, I've seen 4hp difference from one day to another w/ no changes and the same dyno...of course I run on a car dyno so we have to use like 8 straps to hold it down, that alone will affect it dramatically...when I do dyno testing, I leave my shee on the dyno and change mods, then rerun. Only way you can do it. Otherwise your wasting your time....

340-350 mains, needle 4th clip, stock pilot, this is for a K&N filter and modify the air box lid or remove it...Thumper talk.

Pt mids, hands down for the best low end w/ good top...If you can't afford them, then go w/ fmf gnarlies or fmf sst's.

I would start rich and work down. I'd start w/ 350 mains, I would order some 330's as well along w/ the 27.5 pilot....I'd start w/ the stock pilots at first and see how it starts and idles...if it starts hard, then put the 27.5 pilots in...readjust..then try the 350 mains and do a wot test...if it won't rev up , then drop to the 330's. If it does rev out, then run it in 6th gear for 5-10 seconds and pull the plugs immediately after the run...black tip is rich, brown is perfect, tan is lean...you might want to play w/ the needle height to get better response and low end power...

350 mains, stock pilots, needle 4th clip.

Looking at your plugs, one is worse than the other...you have some work to do...What does the smoke smell like?? Oil, antifreeze, tranny fluid?? Also, do a compression test. Guage cost around 20-30 bucks at the auto parts store. You should have at least 125psi....hold the throttle open when you do this. Also make sure that the choke tube between the 2 carbs is on. 1/4"x2" hose. This is most likely your problem.

Well, we need to know what kind of pipes and air filter...your builder should have a close jetting to what you need....as he knows his porting better than anyone else here.

If the tip is black or slightly off black, then you might want to try one size smaller....your very close though....if temps get colder, then your good, if temps get hotter, then you'll be rich...one jet size for every 15-20 degrees, I jet my shee for 60 degrees out and run it between 50-90 degrees out w/ no change... don't look at the porcelain, the needles will change that as well as the pilot..the timing will also affect the porcelain...as for the needles, they have the most affect right before powerband...a lean needle will make the shee hesitate before powerband and a rich needle will tend to make the shee break up especially when riding trails where you are constantly in the 1/4-3/4 throttle range...

Yea, same thing.....lol I see alot of people say the v-force gives them more bottom end, but actually the v-force will richen the needle circuit, causing it to pull harder since most people won't jet the shee properly. Most people will leave the needles in the stock position when adding pipes, so when they add the v-force, they gain some....In actuality, they could have saved 200 bucks and just moved the needles up.....the v-forces do however make nice gains w/ a ported shee though w/ the increase in air flow...especially on the strokers!!

Start w/ 162 mains, 42-45pilot, needle 2nd-3rd clip. I found the DEK needles to pull better low rpms then the CEK needles.....the first letter is the taper of the needle, D being the richer one.....the middle letter is the height of the needle..so if your on the 5th clip, you can get a different needle to move the clip back to the 3rd clip....EX:.....A CEK on the 3rd clip is the same as the CGK on the 5th clip...the last letter is for needle diameter. This makes minimal changes in throttle response, don't bother, unless your looking for that very minimal difference...good luck, keihin carbs have a lot of overlap, so one circuit will affect the other...a lot of combos, so be patient...

You guys are either up there in elevation or just running lean.....start w/ 350 mains, needle 4th clip, stock pilots.

Depending on filter setup, I'd start w/ 290 mains, needle 3rd clip, 30 pilots. This is for 50-80 degrees out and sea level.