locogato11283

just a dab here and there to hold them in place during installation.. and fuck no thats not a good deal. i can get sandblast and PC for like 150 here..

yea that might cause your bike to run like shit..

at this point drilling and retapping is about the only option. dont go too big though. the rears are just a nut welded on the inside of the frame. its really a pretty shitty setup..

what are these "stock" carbs you speak of? :biggrin:

bump your pilot up to 27.5

something is not right..that motor should rip. i can tell you that jeffs motors run strong, so im gonna say that a problem on his end is not happening. also, you should be running those 35's. 28's are NOT enough carb for that 4mm motor, or any 4mm motor for that matter. how did you check the difference in power between 2 bikes? ride one then jump on the other? or did you drga race them? ill guarantee you that your 4mm will flat out spank any stock stroke, stock port banshee. your jetting in the 35's should be right around 160 main and 45 pilot. what air filter setup are you using by the way? if you have a problem, you know you can always call jeff. he built your motor and would be happy to give you some insight on what thew problem is.. whats your timing set at?

NOSS nugga!! if you absolutely cant get a noss then go with the PD. fuck trinity!

should say towards the bottom of the carb, right above the bowls. should be some numbers and it will say pj or pwk. have you checked?

i agree. 33mm pwk will be perfect.

whats up man? welcome back.. how did the surgeries go?? everything straight now?

1. every motor is different and will need different jetting. if your plugs are tan then id leave it for now. what pilot? i run a 45.. 2. if your jetting is right on your plugs will be tan or cardboard colored. if its lean it will be white. if its rich they will be darker or black. 3. as long as your moving. i wouldnt just let it sit and idle for a long time. remember cubs have way more coolant capacity that stock, so youll be fine.

turn the gas off. pull the hose off your right carb. turn gas on. shove hose back on real fast.. ive had air bubbles in mine before that just wont come out. doing the above will fix it.

maybe they are stockers and someone just took a sander and cleaned them up some...

well if you were at a 140 then went to a 160 you went way too far. you need to drop back down to about a 145.. have you checked to make sure your coil is grounded properly? i mean metal to metal bare... that sounds like it could have something to do with it..

not normal at all. where is the gas coming from? overflow tubes??

check your coolant level...

id start at 162 mains and 48 pilots just to be on the safe side. you should be able to work down from there. i bet youll land right around 160 mains and 45 pilots...

cut tires are ONLY for dirt riding.. they will spin even harder than an uncut tire on concrete or asphalt...if you want a good dirt tire that hooks hard on the pavement try the stock yfz450 tires.

the coolant bottle is a fuckin piece of junk! there is absolutely no reason to have it on there. its a waste of space and clutters up the bike. take it off and throw it in the trash can. or throw gas on it and light it on fire and watch it melt.. just run the lines to the ground down one of the frame rails. some zip ties will do the trick.

yea, how much you wanna spend? easy mods are reeds, aftermarket carbs, milled head or cool head...

call k and t. they prolly have more experience with t rex than anyone. also, i do believe that almost every motor ive had the pistons are just a little above the exhaust..

need a mod list, but around here a bike like that would go for 2500 to 3500.. depending on condition..

id just go with t5's. they are excellent pipes..

i seriously doubt it.

personally id stick with the +2 swingarm. i would run 20x11x9 kenda knarlys or stock rear yfz450 tires. both of these are good tires. they wear very well, they hook hard and they are relatively inexpensive in comparison to other tires..