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locogato11283

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Everything posted by locogato11283

  1. Click the link.. Find a sponsor close to you. Purchase. http://www.bansheehq.com/yz-banshee-specs-sponsors.html
  2. Tough to say without seeing them. I'm sure it has been done. Anything can be modded to work. If they're really cheap, just snag them and try it. If nothing else you can always sell them.
  3. I'd start with a 280 main and work from there. Pilot should be 27.5. No need to do a plug chop. That's a waste of plugs. Just do a wide open throttle plug check and adjust jetting from there.
  4. Re-pack them and be a lot smarter than your buddies.
  5. The head is fine. You need to get the correct domes. Who built the motor? You can contact David Noss for the correct domes once you figure out what you need.
  6. Then you have issues. You never thought that something might be wrong?!
  7. 17cc domes?! What is your elevation? Like David asked, what is your compression?
  8. Oh, I think he's a decent enough dude. Just not awesome enough to pull of a working EFI set up.
  9. Your friend is a senior mechanic dumbass. There are no dowels with the NOSS head. The head studs act as a guide.
  10. As much as I hate to agree with Zillafreak, I agree. If you don't know the difference between the two you have NO business building them.
  11. All motors will be different. Saying 1.5 turns out is perfect is a general blanket statement. That said, once your main and pilot are set you should be able to set the air screw. Start with it .5 turn out and stab the throttle. You want the bike to rev out clean. Keep adjusting until it does. Most bikes will end up between .5 and 2.5 turns out.
  12. He is about 3 hours from Wichita.
  13. I have dual rates on my Banshee, triple rates on my abortion bike and dual rates on my brothers. They all turn easily by hand... Then again, I am tanned and jacked.
  14. Post a wanted ad. Someone always has something they want to sell.
  15. It's just a piece of like 1/4" round bar with a rubber grip on the end. I've never used one. They should easily turn by hand once loosened and the weight is off the bike.
  16. Homie, I have Stage 5 Elkas. All you have to do is loosen up the set screw and take weight off the bike and you can turn those things by hand. You don't need a special tool for that.
  17. Preload tool? WTF is that? I have bought two sets of Elkas brand new and I'm not even sure what you're talking about?
  18. Yea, those are to adjust your camber. I like to set mine about 1/8" in at the top. I always use a 2' level to check with the wheels and tires on. I typically like my ball joints in as far as they'll go. I will screw the bottom all the way in and adjust with the top.
  19. What specifically do you need to know?
  20. Carbs most likely. Those PJ 34's are very temperamental. Ditch those things and run some 35mm PWK's and be happy. Also, he's giving up at least 5 HP alone with his pipes.
  21. Word. That's like asking which wiring harness to use on a YFZ/Banshee motor swap. If you don't know, you shouldn't even be attempting it.
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