boonman

yes, and yes.

This is VERY bad. It indicates that the cylinders are not runnign alike. Which side is smoking more?

I run FMF reeds and have had one problem with them. I cracked one off with about 10 hours of use. The new set however has been in there for quite some time...

The compression doesn't go anywhere. the motor just isn't making it. With 95 at 400' above sea level, it is definitely time for a rebuild. And you can spend a few hundred bucks to rebuild it now, or when a skirt cracks off and goes into the lower end and trashes the crank you will be very mad at that price tag. Or, you could have a ring let go and do the same thing. it is the lay of the land with a shee. you have to pay the piper sometimes. Not rebuilding a two stroke is like not changing the oil in your car. Sooner or later, something wil happen....

The flywheel sounds shot. If there is any play, that is not good, as the timing will be out of whack. Your plugs fire off of the the flywheel, and the pickup coil. If the timing bumps on the flywheel aren't locked with the rotating crank, your timing is now fluttering so bad that the engine and CDI has no idea WTF is happening. I am betting that you had an air leak in the left side. You could have smoked a crank seal on that side causing it to suck air as well. but, now that you have it ripped apart, we will never know the cause of it. I would definitely do a leakdown on it this time around. If you don't have the tools for it, then go to the stealership, and have them do it, I would suggest asking them to let you watch it, and if they don't want to let you, then go to someplace that does, or setup your own tester. There are pics on here somewhere... Air leaks are a VERY BAD thing. My stator smelled like crap when I pulled it out and it was all rusty too. It was fine though. I just needed more lighting power. So I got a ricky stator unit. Good luck on the install of the stroker. And on the yamabond, everone has their own way to do it, but the way I do it, is I yama bond everything. Bearing surfaces and all.

How much is the right side smoking? You may have a shot crank seal and it is sucking tranny oil in..... I would try the plugs first, and then look for the crank seal option. It will smoke alot and smell horrid...

How did you come to this conclusion? The carbs may be etting fuel, but is it etting to the cylinder? Is the wiring correct? Every connection cleaned and tight? Have you cleaned the carbs? Is the choke tube in there?

This is VERY untrue. It can be the case, but it is not a direct relationship. The more "power" and engine has, the better ability it posseses to move a given load. This is the important part where you are concerned. If you build your engine, you will be able to "pull" taller gearing better, and there fore give you more top end. Here's how: Say your engine can now pull a 14/41 gearing really clean. You jump to a 15, and it is doggy off the line, but it can pull up top a little longer, annd gain you some top end speed. However, you are unhappy with the off the line performance. So, what do you do? you build the motor, you pipe it, and let's say you get it ported. Now, you may be able to pull a 16/41 gearing clean off the bottom, and be really sweet on top, but you however aren't turning all that many more revs. Maybe 1,000 RPM's at the most on top. While this will equal some extra top speed, it won't be alot. It also depends how long you're gonna hold it WOT for...

Is this by chance the right (clutch/PTO side?) If it is, and you are losing tranny oil I think you may have a smoked crank seal and it is sucking tranny oil into the motor. if not, pull the top end to see what is up...

I would definitely like to check it out. Something doesn't sound right. My first thoughts lead me to believe that there is an improper squish, but speculation doesn't mean a damn thing..... keep me posted!!!!!

I used the impact to put it back on as well. Worked fine. Impact gun is a great torque wrench. I even use it to torque down the head. Very precise. Just kidding on the head thing. But the clutch nut should be fine....

I made it. I bent the stock one I had, and I am always tryint to make things to improve upon stock junk, so I whipped one up!!

I love it!!! Except that I am gonna drag with it now and I won't be using it anymore........

I am with BD here. Whoever cut that head did NOT cut just .025" off it. They must have cut more, and gave a wickedly small squish to make it detonate like that. Or, it was an improperly shaped dome if that was messed with. I have machined countless banshee heads, and snowmobile heads. Not one problem, or complaint. The MAX I will cut on a banshee head is .035", and that is cutting it close on the squish. .030", a TRUE .030" is a more comfortable number. 80% of the heads I machine are between .020" and .025". I don't know what was up with your buds bike, and I am not doubting that he did in fact blow a top end, but I would like to see the head to explore what made it happen. It wasn't from cutting it .025" though. It was cut more than that, or something else was not right....

I run a CR-lo bend bar. but I have a raised and 2" forward stem. I am about 6'1", and I can stand all day long on my bike.......

I don't hnow where the best place to get a Dyna ignition is, but they are nice. Have programmable outputs, and are adjustable. I don't have one, but I plan on possibly getting one. Do you drag? Oh, and I can lighten your flywheel for ya too... Someone sent me a link to the ignition, I don't remember the price though. I think it was screamin....

SOunds lke a factory item to me. HotRod cranks aere stamped with "HR"

That must be one hella built 583!!!!!! 100 HP??

I shave heads. I wouldn't go more than .035". That is about the maximum you can go without risking difficulty. PM me if you want pricing info on it, i provide same day service.... and 110 sounds like it is no problem. As long as you aren't below about 95-100, or have a difference of more than 5-10 PSI between the barrels...

When you change port height and timing, your static compression number will drop. SOmetimes drastically depending on the porting involved. It doesn't mean that you don't have to run race fuel. that is the dilemma with the proposed "160 PSI line" for race fuel or not. I would say that with 18 cc domes, and at your elevation, you had better be running at least some sort of race fuel, or pump and race mixed together.....

Hearing this tells me that your carb(s) are filling up with fuel. This happens because either your needle valve is shot, (the part that connects to the floats) which would allow fuel to free flow into the carb, or the more likely scenario, is that the needle valve has some crud in it making it stick open. This is why you see fuel dumping out the overflow. More often times than not, the carbs are not disassembled enough to really clean them out the proper way. You have to completely disassemble them.

I had the same problem with my bike a couple times, and it was the coils primary wires that had come loose on the terminals. A quick squeeze with the pliers, and a little dielectric business on there and I stuck them back on. It worked like a champ. Your 270 sounds a little lean, although I don't know your setup.... Especially being near sea level. Choke tube in place? Slides in the right way?

You can tip the bike on it's side, and try to use some penetrating oil. Let it soak in, and keep spraying it for like 7-8 beers time worth. Then, go to sleep, because you will be a little too tipsy to be swinging a BFH with any sort of force in the vicinity of yourself and your machine. Spray some more stuff on it whenever you get up to take a leak. Then, the next day, start whacking away. It needs ALOT of persuasion from the mighty hand of the BFH. if not, other avenues involvin cutting tools may have to be used. Then, like aforementioned, I would drill that puppy out for a zerk. KEep it greased for further ease of future removal.