boonman

Stock, Motion Pro, or Terry Cable are about the only options. Check out Moto-man.com. Thye always have my shit to me in a day or two.....

Even if you have the parking brake disconnected, you still need to unplug the brain module from the system. WHich is located, as mentioned, above the left exhaust. There are 3 wires on the plug. Disconnect it and see what you got....

HERE Is my compression tester. I LOVE it. cost me over $100 though. I sent if to Fixitrod once so he could check it out. I think he was impressed too.......

It is illegal in NYS to ride off of your own property without a registered machine. You also have to carry liability insurance if you ride off your property WITH PERMISSION from the landowner. Also, if you ride in other states, you will need a registration from your home state (where required) or a temporary reggy in their state. Now, the state DMV used to give you back the Certificate of Origin, but they now destroy that, and give you a transferrable registration. Trailers and snowmobiles are the same way. Transferrable registration. It kind of sucks, and they have you by the balls when it comes to that. ANd I heard they are raising the registration fees AGAIN. ANd they will be closing more land. I'm just gonna have to buy my own island. and ride there

Shit. Imagestation is for shits now. They suck. Anyways, HERE is a link to the whole album. Scroll through there, and you'll see it........

I usually smoke my crack......

Holy shit!!!! Gues that spanks the house we bought in November all to shame....... 3 br, 1.5 bath, 1500 sq. ft. and 2.5 acres.....

You can get them from alot of shops. Model #9157 is listed on www.magicracing.com for FMF angle. WHich is what you should need with an FMF power core II. Now, if your exhaust exits straight out the back, (old school FMF) than you need the FMF straight, #9156. They are $65 each. Pricey, but it will save you a ticket. THey clamp on, and have had a tendency to fall off......

$25 shipped. I just checked price on a new star. less than $20 from Ronnies. Perhaps I may work some of those into the near future.... Let's see, Magic racing charges $45 + shipping, how about I'll go $40 shipped.

I use Pingleist. I don't golf. Never have. Although, I have taken a few rounds on a golf cart. That's about the only enjoyable part for me...

Same people over and over again??? I am outraged!!!! I barely ever come on here anymore.....

This had me fall out of my chair. And spill my coffee all over the place. (it was a good cup too!!!) How in the hell do you check voltage with an ohmmeter? Anyways, power demands are critical. The difference between the radio and CD is that a CD is usually going to be a more powerful signal, and cleaner than the raadio. SO, the amp is pushing more. One way to tell is crank that bitch up, (if you don't have a multimeter to check voltage) and look at the lights on the amp. if they go out, or the amp goes into fault, you need more power. Does the power wire get hot? is the problem worse at night? in the rain? on a cold morning? (ie. when you have other things that draw power turned on in the car)?

My stock swingarm has a round carrier....

Sounds like the ball and rod... usuually, the cable going slack is a sure bet.... Unless the adjuster frigged up on the pressure plate.....

Yes. There is an adhesive on it. I chip it away with a scribe and a small screwdriver when I get them in. Otherwise, they don't fit on my jig. When in doubt, the hot wrench usually works.....

Unintelligble? I am fairly not smart at all, but I will still reply. How about THIS??? Is that what you're looking to do? Another shot And another... And another And a side view of the bike. I think I shortened mine like 2 or 2.5....... I would get another stock arm, (they are chap on Ebay) and start cuttin. You need to get a round housing. I think Cotten Eyed Joe may be able to help you out there. he can also get you a carrier. This is about the only option you have...... Or, pony up and buy one already done. It took me about 7 hours start to finish. Painting and all...... I love it. 2 minute chain adjustment is the shit!!!!! No worries about your shit bein crooked either. Well, that is provided you weld it straight??

Where you gettin it done for $40? And $65 for the top cost? I have seen the lightening costing well in excess of $100..... Anyways, I don't know where your goin on the lightening not bein good for trails??? 90% of the riding I do is trails. And my bike is wicked in the trails. COme to think of it, there isn't anywhere that lightening the flywheel doesn't help. Have you actually ridden a bike in the trails with a lightened flywheel, and then rode it with a stock? I have. The difference is AWESOME. Hands down. The throttle response is awesome. Remember, we're not talking about a 4 stroke here.

They are all pretty similar. What is the cost of a boughten one? Maybe I will go to the dealer, and picks me up a few and start sellin'........

I raised my stem, (actually, I made my own.) and my stem ended up hitting the tank. So, about a half hour with a heat gun, and a hammer handle of all things, and the tank was whipped into shape. I also moved my bars about 1.75" forward. My bike is all wierd on the steering...... HERE is a top view of the completed setup. HERE is the view with the handlebars and the triple clamp removed........ It is all a custom Boonman creation..........

Turnaround time from me simply cannot be beat. unless of course you just buy one. Now, you can get close. But, you cannot do the neutral backcut yourself without the proper machinery. Peeps this thread out HERE and you'll see what's involved. The choice is yours. But, why not backcut neutral so you can find it with ease while you have the part out of the bike.......

Nice!!!!!!! Meat is spot on. (like usual) When I do a shift star, first, it goes to the vertical milling machine. Where a .500" carbide end mill awaits for the machining on the neutral spot to be done. I touch off on the top of the star, go down .210", and I machine the detent .080" deeper. Once that is done, it goes to the belt sander, (like mentioned) and I grind off the high spots. Then, I affix it to my jig. (it mimicks the end of the shift drum, and the star bolts on exactly how it does on when it is on the bike) I put it in the Engine lathe. I then turn the ears down. It comes out perfect. Within .001". After it comes off the lathe, I take it over to the 1"x48" belt sander for some deburring. Then, I take it over to the scotchbrite belt equipped belt sander for some polishing. Then, it gets shipped out.

Holy shit. Your going to risk an air leak and possible top end failure over a $20 top end gaskt set? Hop on Ebay, and order yourself up a gasket set..... PLease!!!

We had a BIG discussion on this not too long ago. I don't remember exactly who was debating on it, but the outcome is this. Coasting at any speed, with the clutch pulled in is a NO NO!!!! Especially with an insufficient amount of oil in there. Now, sitting there still, clutch in, revving the piss out of it, you won't have a problem. The pressure plate isn't moving. The tranny shaft that the ball goes through doesn't spin untill you move. It is attached via spline(s) to the inner clutch boss. (the part that the steel plates are affixed to) So, bottom line, coasting with clutch pulled in=BAD Sitting still with clutch pulled in=O.K.

it is basically a thrust bearing. With a small machined "tit" that goes in place of the ball. It almost can't sieze up. Unless you had no oil in the tranny.... You can find them on Ebay as well.....

Yep. They do have the power. Make a great bike ANYWHERE you want to ride. Where are you located?