boonman

What kind of fuel are you runing, and what is your elevation?

It needs to be tuned. I HIGHLY DOUBT Jim did shoddy work. Keep playing untill you find a setup it likes. And get rid of the airbox.... You shouldn't be running it.

Yep, you need to get an aftermarket RickyStator. I lighten them for well under 3/4 of that C-note, shipping included. You will notice a wicked throttle response from the bike.

Don't worry meat. I am prolly gonn come down Thurs. night. I still havern't got the tow vehicle done. BUT, I got Most of the electrical done tonight on it. Running some extra stuff this time around. All sorts of relays, lights and switches and what not. I am like a kid in a candy store when it comes to having neat shit!!! Switches for anything. Makes for diagnosing problems a little easier... ANyways, If your bike ain't running by then, lemme know, and I will being, well nevermind, I will be bringing a shitload of tools anyways, but I will get it running for ya Thurs. night for sure.,...

Windowz 98 cannot support too much Peripheral business.. It is useless. My laptop runs 98, I can't load anything else. It crashes often.....

Denny, if you don't have it fixed by the Friday of Coal fest, I will com down Thurs. after work. I am thinking it is an overlooked problem.... Something is going all to hell with the kill switch business..... Why do you want a factory kill switch? They are junk.....

Denny, it sounds like a broken ground. Perhaps a coil wire that has fallen off? (primary side. the orange and black wires) Intermittent electrical shit is really to diagnose.... There isn't much to making a banshee run... Are all the connectors clean? What DIDN'T you change when you changed the harness/CDI/and coil. That connector where the key used to be needs to be soldered together..... And the stock handlebar bullshit, is just plain useless. I have a mini toggle switch zip tied to the handlebars for the headlights. I run a pro-design tether for a kill. I still have to hook up an MX kill switch. Other than that, my electrical is simple. I design electrical systems and shit at work. It's nothing tough. You have to go over everything. A ground that is not solid will f*ck up your day.... Just hadanother thought. What kind of plug caps are you running? Are they "loaded"?? What kind of plugs? I ALWAYS run "R" style plugs. You need a resistor in the shee electrical side of the plugs...

read the thread. Weekend of June 4th..... 2004 And I just got back in from being out in the garage all day, and I got alot accomplished. It looks like sometime this week I wil;l be firing up the S-10. (Which is needed to tow a trailer down...) Motor is in, trans. is in. Gotta hook up an exhaust, tie up a bunch of other shit, figure out fans, and Whala!!!! Then I can get to the shee. It loks as though I will be wrenchin on that when I get there though.... I am running out of time.....

PLasma cutting, or any other cutting for that matter is all relative to the moron/operator that is setting it iup, and the maintenance on the machine. A sloppy machine, yields sloppt parts. A plasma table can burn material very accurately. By far better than any oxy table out there.. And water jet machining is very useful. And cutting fiberglass isn't one of it's uses. Fiber material is a PITA to machine no matter what you do. A plasma cutter is by far more versatile than a water machine. But, wait for laser technology to further itself and look out!!

LMMFAO!!! Damn choke tube will get you everytime!!!!!!

Meat, it is surely a simple problem. Something that is overlooked. No spark. Rule it down to electrical. Ain't your silencer causing the problem!!!! Anyways, Start from the plug(s) and work back. Look at the entire harness VERY carefully. Look for any spots that could rub on the frame. Any wire that touches the frame, and you will ground it out. Pfft. No spark. I haven't even looked at my bike in 6 months. There haven't been pipes on it in forever. I will probably look at it 2 days before I leave for coalfest. I will come down a day early if you need some help still with it. I am taking Friday off, I can come down Thurs. night perhaps..... Check the harness...... It has to be there.

Sounds like it is. Didn't think of that. However, when I put the star on the arbor, and turn it in the lathe, all the toofers get whacked down the precise same amount. Guaranteed to within .0005". That ought to be good enough for a shift star......

Yep. The title kind of scared me.... And the pics, nawww man, not aproblem on my 21" trinitron monitor!! Now if zI was at work, and on the laptop, that would be a problem....

Who is going to port it? Make SURE you go with someone reputable. Don't have your local shop do it. Unless you live next door to Jim in Tulsa Oklahoma..

Never heard of such things..... From neutral to first is out of the neutral detent.... That is the lowest point on the star besiides the saddle in between gears.... I mod shift stars, and I have never heard of such things.... Got a pic?

Yep, $450-$500 for porting, and a bore job. You have to bore the cylinders after porting anyways, so why not port it before you bore it....

Meat, you're doing exactly what I did with mine. I cut everythihng off relating to the stock crap. I ran a wire directly from the yellow stator wire to a toggle switch. Off that switch, I ran a wire to each light. Simple enough. It's on it's own circuit. The only wires from the stock harness on my bike are from the stator -(ignition side) to the CDI, and the voltage regulator wire.. All the light wiring was my own. As is the tether wiring...... Basically, anything that would make the bike physically run, I left. Anything that was "extra" I cut off. Beny gave a good description of what you can do.

I straightened a needle once. It didn't work worth a shit. Get a new one. And be careful....

Any vehicle has it's inherent problems.... But, a 700R4, or a 4L60, or the 4L60E are great trannies. You have to build them the right way. Mine is on my bench. I notice that people mention severe repair Bills. yep, Repair bills. Learn how to wrench on shit yourself, and you won't have to worry about it.... And running 35's on anything smaller than a Dana 44, or light duty on a Dana 30 is suicide..... You can't throw 35's on a half ton and beat the balls off it. Shit WILL break.... Ecspecially if you have a wildly retarded right ffooot. I have a 4L60E in my blazer. Great tranny. I have a couple R4's as well. In order to build an R4, it is cheap. Do it right. Good clutches. Good shift kit. Manual lockup solenoid. Different servos, block off the accumulators... They work great. Proper maintenance is essential as well. And 12" on a Tahoe is't gonna get 44's on there.... Maybe with trimming involved...... And he better have swapped some drivetrain parts over..... Otherwise a small puddle would break it.....

This isn't a fix on a wheeler, but the first time we went to Silver Lake, on the road, one of the crew's suburbans cracked the coolant line fitting on the back of the intake that feeds the line to the heater core. We towed the suburban, (still hooked to the trailer) back to camp. In the morning, I got up, drove to Wally World, got some JB weld. I mixed me up a big bait of it, and bbooogered it all over the intake. It was a PITA to get back there. But, it held, and he drove it awhile that summer with that JB weld in there. no heat of course, but the motor still held coolant like a champ.... Once on a sled ride, my buddy tore the rear suspension mounts right out of the tunnel. So, the sled just dropped to the running boards. I went to the nearest street crossing, and ripped out a fence post there. Rode back, and stuck the post in between the running boards and the slide rails of the suspension. Worked fantastic, and got us back to the hotel. Although, he was a little sore from having no suspension......

It would not be safe to rule out the stator. Weak spark could be the culprit....... Even if you did smoke a piston, the bike should fire up on one cylinder... Mine always did..... I doubt you smoked both sides at once...... I am thinking either coil, or stator.... You could also have a loose connection as well.... Or a bare wire shorting out on the frame dropping your coil voltage......

report it, and a mod will delete it....

You could have a broken crank seal, allowing air in.... Intake boot could be cracked..... Base gasket, you need to do a leakdown test....

The trannys aren't junk. But, they are a half ton..... As for ride quality, you won't lose any. Not with an IFS lift. All your suspension will be the same rate, except for the rear, in which you can get a system, which wil have new leaf packs, or a kit, which contains an add-a-leaf. IMHO, an add-a-leaf in an SUV is the best thig for them... Makes them ride A BUNCH better. But, as for lifting it, I wouldnt. Sell your Ford, and get a V-10 or a diesel. The V-10 won't get any worse mileage with bigger tires, and you'll have power then... The diesel is the optimal choice though.... I still don't understand why people think the ride will be shitty with a lift kit. I have 15" of lift in my truck, and it rides fuckin awesome!!!!!!