boonman

Losing my family is #1 fear. Being a failure being #2........

to you Brooke!!!

Yep. The running boards/nerf bars are gonna stay on. I like the look of the truck better without them, but I don't want the leather getting all chewed up from sliding in and out. I have started the coffee can to save up some $$ for mods. Soon enough, it will be a rocket!!!

You can put the other end of the cable in the throttle housing, and hook it to the throttle. THis will keep some tension on the cable.... And it won't let the cable pull out.......EDIT::: And thanks for the tap size!!!

Get the carbs drilled and tapped for the idle kit. Then, put the carb tops on the new cable. Put the cable(s) into the slide(s). "thread" the spring onto the cable. Insert the slide into the carb, with the cutaway facing the air cleaner. Hook up the throttle, disconnect the TORS brain under the left side of the tank, and fire it up. Set the idle, and go ride. (oh yea, don't forget to file alot of material fro mthe side of the carb where the idle screw goes.). You don't happen to know what size tap it is? It should be marked on the tap. If you could tell me what it is, that would be great!!!

Only one idle kit. And I do not remember what tap size it is. I am thinking somewhere around a M5x1.0 but don't quote me on it. Take one of the screws soemwhere, and match it up..... Or, if you can get me a size of the screw, or, hell, I can take a look at it when I get home perhaps, I can send you a drill and tap to use provided you send it back of course.....

in a car, perhaps that could be the case, BUT, in a 2 stroke engine, the transmission is seperate from the crankcase. Meaning, that the crankcase canot build pressure unless something is seriously wrong. I am guessing that you have one or both of the transmission vents plugged up. One is located behind the water pump cover, (which you had to remove to replace the clutch), and the other is located on top of the transmission , at the rear of the case, and underneath the upper rear motor mount.....

For a compression check, you hold the throttle wide open, and kick the shit out of it untill the needle stops moving. Do the same on the other side. A stator could be the problem, but that's why you have a Clymer manual, and an Ohmmeter, so you could check these things out. (check the resistance on the Stator, between the proper wires......)

Alright CD, With the TORS removal kit, you also need an idle kit. Which usually comes free if you get it from an aftermarkt dealer. it comes with 2 screws, and two nuts, and a drilll and tap. (one screw for each carb). Now, if you look at the slide, on the side of it, there will be an angled part. THis is where the idle screw is suppposed to hit against to keep the slide slightly open to the proper setting. Now, you have to drill and tap into the side of the carb. Think of another carb, where there was an idle screw. Look at the carb on the shee. You will see a spot to the outside of each carb where there "could be" an idle screw. This is where you drill and tap. (you may want to call motion pro and see if they will sell you an idle kit) Make sure you have the carbs off the bike. Aluminum chips will be everywhere. Once you drill and tap, you have to de-bur the inside of the carb where you broke through. Now, on the outside, you will see that the hole you just drilled, has a little "tit" coming of the side of the carb. It is "slash cut", or kind of angled. A nut will not lock it down properly because it has to seat against a flat surface ffor best application. So, they tell you to file it down untill it's flat. Well, after it is filed flat, take an 1/8" more. So that the idle screw can basically protrude further into the slide bore to catch the slide and hold it open to allow fuel to flow through the pilot jet... This can be part, if not all of your problem..... DO NOT use the cables to adjust your idle. This willl give you no free play.... Which is a bad thing....

Fro, thanks my man. I don't have any editing program on my laptop. Kind of limited in what I can put on the work pc. Them rims, well, let's just say they are hand me down's..... The fronts are split rims, and I had to torch the centers out of them to get them on. The tires I am surprised still hold air. They were dragged out of a field.... I just need them on there so the guy can get it in the booth.......... And hopefully someone wans her when it's all ready to go. And 8" in the Ford and 38's. 36's in the winter for plowing........

If you don't have imagestation, I guess you can't view them. Friggin Imagestation. Anyone know of any free hosting sites? This is pissin me off. Can't direct link anymore. Bastards.........

Thank you Sony.com!!!!! Got me a driver. I will upload some pics here. Oh, $15K asking price for the Dodge. Smokin deal if you ask me. I don't know what order these pics will be in. I have 4 of them. The new Ferd, and the Ol' Dodge, on the trailer behind it. Stock tires on a truck with 14" of lift just don't seem right...... Friggin errors. Won't let me upload them. I'll just have to post them on imagestation. I'll post a link on edit here in a minute.... Alright, HERE is a pic of the new Ferd F-250 crew diesel. HERE is the other side of the Ford... HERE is the Dodge, on the trailer, with stock tires on some really beat up wheels...... HERE is the Ford, hooked to the trailer, which is hauling the Dodge to get paint work.

A woodruff key is shaped like a "half moon". You put the regular key in there. I am assuming you got a Wiseco crank. Them damned people NEVER cut a keyway deep enough. You always have to shave a litle off the key to get things to slide together. I don't have any pics here at work, but I do have them at home. If noone has posted a pic, I will get one up later on today. You will have to get a puller in there somehow. Either that, or pull the cases back apart.

Friggin' computer. My laptop here at work won't get a driver for my Camera. I can't get the pics off it!!!! little bastard. No pics untill later when I get home. Unless I can get a driver from Sony website. Truck gets paint tomorrow, and will be up for sale Friday morning. Hopefully someone buys it who will put it to good use. I have put 4,000 miles on it in 3 years. Didn't use it all that much.....

I cannot see how a closed slide will flood the engine. Wierd. ANyways, on the idle thing, I don't remember if you have the TORS removal kit or not. If you do, you have to grind the angled part of the carb where the idle screw goes into. I thought I did mine far enough, the instructions tell you to file untill they are flat. Well, after they are flat, you still need to take about another 1/8" off. It doesn't hurt anything. It just give you more adjustability. This could be the idle problem. BUT, I am still thinking that the pilot jets are clogged. Did you pull the pilots out??? You have to get a small flathead screwdriver, and get in where the plastic slosh cup sits and remove the teeny tiny pilot jet. Blow it out, and use solvent.

I am a perfectionist!!!! I don't like fly cutting. You see, I always tram the head whenever I get on any mill in the shop. We have flunkies that I can't trust in the shop that can't run a mill for shit!!!! The grinder I can set up in a few seconds, and the finish is unparalleled!!! Ask anyone who has had their head done by me. Perfct, every time.

Yep, You just mod the stock star. You can send yours out, and have it done, or buy one already done. Getting yours done is far cheaper.

If you tried, even for a moment with a jaw type puller, the flywheel is junk. DO NOT USE AJAW PULLER!!!! Get the right tool for the job!!!!!!!!!

I loaded up my Dodge today. It's the beginning of the end of it's journey in my posession. It is going to my painter tomorrow, to fix my fender mishap, and a little bubble under the paint on the driver door. Once I get it back, it is going to my grandfather's house, untill it sells. It is sitting on a trailer, with stock tires, strapped down. It was really sad today. But, as I look at what is hooked to the front of the trailer, I get to droolin. I think I like the journey of building trucks more than the destination. it was too late to take any pics, as I charged up some batteries for the digi. I found today. I will take it with me tomorrow, and snap some at work. This way, I'll snap some pics of the new Crewie as well. I have been slackin in that department. Hopefully the New Ford will be at least half as fun as the Dodge was......... I guess things could be worse........

Something is wrong with the idle circuit. Be it a clogged pilot, slides not far enough up, something. You are running stock pipes? Stock airbox? Do you have the snorkel still on there? If you do, take it off, and leave the main jet alone. Are you sure it's running rich? Have you done a WOT check? (Wide Open Throttle) I am still thinking it has to do with the idle circuit....

Did the flywheel shear a key? Is it loose?

Ummmmmm, the CDI can most certainly fire on one cylinder or the other. Just because it fires both plugs at the same time, it can still "skip" a cylinder. Ih ave never seen it, but it can happen. I do however agree that it is fuel related. Is the choke tube in place?

Indeed that is a vertical mill. And if you are calling/ have always caled it a drill press, I don't think you should be fashioning up any jigs or fixturing to be holding your head for any machine work. Things could go south on your motor in a hurry if you were, to "error" on it. I have to dig up my digital camera, but I posted some pics on here awhile back of my jig and a head on the grinder. Oh shizzle, I just remembered my man B370 has me a page on his site. Click HERE to peeps it out. You really need to be caref8ul when modding anything on your engine...... otherwise, or When the thing grenades.....