boonman

I get the 450 as well....

I run my own tie rods and ends..... I don't use a taper lock.... I drilled out the spindle.... And run a run of the mill, heavy duty rod end. Teflon lined none the less....... Have to get high angle though, otherwise, they just don't work.....

I was buying complete top end gasket sets from cometic for what mother Yamaha gets for just a head gasket... Aftermarket has always done me fine....

Hey peeps. I need a favor. I have a complete list of what I need to fix a friends Rubicon Honda wheeler. It hit a tree, and has about $2,000 list price of parts needed for the repair. Anyone have a hookup on Honda factory parts at cost? Any help would be much abliged.

Nope, bike doesn't slow down quicker.....

I would definitely say that in my own experience, there aren't any disadvantages. HOWEVER, I do not have a ported bike. I am on stock porting. (well, just a little clean up of the transfers I did myself, but no timing changes.) In my woods riding, (which is about 90% of the riding I do) I didn't find that I had to shift much. My clutch is retardedly stiff, so I hate using it, only to start out. Or, if I absolutely have to. So, most of my riding is rolling on and off the throttle. I have noticed that the THROTTLE RESPONSE is greatly increased. I guess that one could say that it makes it a slight amount more "hairy" to ride. The powerband comes on instantly. When you want it, it's there. No four stroke like smoothness. My bike bogs less with a lightened flywheel. When you need the RPM's, they are there. No delay. You hit the throttle, and it happens. Now, keep in mind that I run a -2.5" shortened swingarm. So, traction isn't a problem. Well, except in sand, where I get too much traction. Anyways, This isn't needed, because like BD said, there is power being applied to the crank every 180 degrees of rotation. You don't need the mass to keep things spinning untill the next power stroke. Also, these effects only hurt you when you are trying to accelerate. Small amounts of weighted change on a crankshaft yield huge changes in what happens inside the motor. HUGE. The less rotating mass you have, the easier the engine can perform combustion and make power when YOU WANT it to happen. Not after you want it to happen. I would say that if you have stock tires, and a stock swingarm, this is not the mod for you in the woods. There is more of a "hit," not much, but it is noticeable. It may light the tires a little easier on a stock bike. but, I haven't noticed any problem on mine. But, remember, that the banshee isnt' a woods bike. Ify ou want to run competitively in the woods, you won't be able to do it on a stock chassis'd banshee. It is like riding a bulldozer, when everyone else is on a skid-steer. In my mind, (and i don't build banshee motors either, so keep that in mind) falling off the pipe is an ill fated concern, and one that doesn't hold any weight. I would want my engine to start decelerating when I let off the throttle. Not keep me moving....... When I was racing, I was either on, or off the throttle. And when you do let off, who cares where the RPM's end up, you can pick right back into the powerband instantly. It is of no concern to me. I will never forget when Fixitrod took my bike for a ride. now, keep in mind that he has a stroker. If I remember correctly, (this was at Coalfest) his exact words were "holy shit!!!" And he had a grin across his face. My bike is stock, but feels like it has much more power, and is more rider friendly. CRISP is the only word that comes to mind. A linear connection from the carb(s) to your brain. You think, I need RpM's, you crack the throttle. With a lightened flywheel, there is NO delay. It is there. And when the engine wanted to bog, (like being in too high of a gear), it seems to me that the engine spins up and out of the bog faster, than it would/did with a stock flywheel. I PM'ed you a price, and I remove as much as possible, without compromising the integrity of the flywheel.

I do disagree with one thing on Meat's reply. When I raced XC and hare scrambles, I switched to a lightened flywheel, and I liked it. I felt that the engine came out of the low end bog a bit easier. And with the -2 swingarm, it hooked up just fine, and wasn't a bear to hang onto. I'm not ported though.

Nope, both plugs fire at the same time....

no difference...

Chainsaw, a Stihl FS-66 trimmer, box spring and a push mower. Or, a Gravely Sickle bar mower. Old school. Trimmer with a blade and some handlebars will get the job done nicely. Been through some serious business with the FS-66.

Interesting little thing there. I htink I got some points taken away for low income, and drinking excessively..... Oh well. I ain't gonna quit drinking....

J.J. has it nailed. That is precisely what I did. The Jig that I made uses a bolt to secure the flywheel onto the taper, but a piece left on the end that is threaded in order to place a nut on it would suffice as well. This will best mimic the end of the crank, as the flywheel will be bolted on the machine. There is no need to use the tailstock, as you will be close wnough to the chuck, and you will get chatter if you don't have good tooling being that the outer rim of the flywheel is only rivited to the center hub you are holding it with.... Getting the proper feed is essential, and that takes experience, and just general "know-how". Do NOT go too deep. Catastrophic part loss will be inevitable. And it will ruin your day..... Be careful......

Perhaps you could check the reeds..... I had a similar problem and that was the case. One had cracked...... Also, swap plug wires and see if the problem still exists...... That will eliminate the coil.....

Yessir. Wiseco, and other manufacturers make pistons oversize to fit your application. I would go up to .060" over, (if that will clean up any scoring that may be in the walls) and put new pistons, rings, and upper rod bearings in there.... Good as new.... Take the cylinders to a machine shop, and let them tell you if another .010" out of them will clean them up...... If so, .060" is the answer.....

Yup, I believe the ONLY reply in here that was informative was wrote by myself. Hrmmm, I didn't see you whipping out any flywheel specs..... Nope, but I HAVE lightened ALOT more flywheels than you, and may be, just a little bit better at it....... I don't wear panties, so that ain't gonna happen.... And I defintely will. I have a wedding to go to. Free booze, and good food. I'm all for that...... A little dinner, cocktails and some dancin'. Ain't nothin better... Well, except for takin a rip on the shee........ Lokar, bro. No hard feelings...... It's all good....

Well, in reply to this, I do not hate you. First off, I will get that out of the way. And secondly, I will take your reply apart, and reply to a little of it... Also, the only thing condescending in my reply was EVERYTHING else in my reply was informative, and answered any question(s) you asked. hrmmm.. what about Remember that? Seems very not nice to me. Yup..... With the "blow me" comment, that was a hell of a support. Again, not bugging anyone? Nope, not at all, by tellign a friend of mine and a well respected member of this forum to "blow me". Nope, that wouldn't bug ANYONE at all. I usually do. But in this case, I DID have quite a bit of information to be adding to this conversation, you know, being that I lighten flywheels, and have done countless amounts of them..... I don't doubt your intelligence, I don't even know you. But, with a comment of telling someone to lick your balls, I may now have doubts....... I am not condescending at all. Let's see, I answered Leadfoots question with And the next lines were directed at you, (Lokar) because you deserved every bit of it. Yup. everyone is as dumb as I am. Let me tell ya. I am truly an idiot in every sense of the word. Such so, in fact, that I Rarely EVER go blabbing on here about what I do, or what I have done. Noone cares about it. And running a CNC shop, perhaps you could whip yourself up a medal. Gold of course, because you deserve it. Cotton Eyed Joe runs his own CNC shop with his Ol' man. He doesn't go around telling people to lick his balls. I think I just heard a commercial on the radio. You know, the Bud Light commercials? Yep, wonderful piece.... I was only trying to help. YOU on the other hand, did not offer ANYTHING informative to the situation, except a small tidbit on oral sex...... Throw your flywheel in the Mazak, (or whatever machines you have, maybe Haas, they are good machines) and turn away. And grab a tissue, I see you were at the end of your reply. Be sure to put your eye condoms back on. Wouldn't want you to get a chip in the eye......

Blow me. That is a fairly comical statement. In that you go bashing other members. When they are only trying to help. 4.84" is the final O.D. And 2.8" on the center hub. I trust you have a spindle to chuck it on? Then again, I shouldn't be so trusting with someone like yourself. You may be better off than trying to lighten it yourself........ It is an expensive mistake.... And it looks like shit when your done if you don't know PRECISELY what you are doing...... But, don't listen to me, I don't know a damn thing about banshees. I mean, hell man, mines allllllll stock.....

Val-Du doesn't mind a little noise. Nor fires. It can be a little raddy, but I have never minded staying there...... I ALWAYS wear flip flops wherever I shower away from home anyways. I am up in the air about going, $$ is tight as always, and I may be switching jobs soon. It will be a last minute decision. If I go, I will have a Dark Grey F-250 Diesel crew cab and my shee. Val-Du will be where I am at, somewhere around campsite 77 or so..... (in the back, where the party's at)

On your heat cycles, be sure you just idle the engine. Do not ride it. Heat it up, shut it down untill comletely cool to the touch. THen do it again. Maybe blip it a couple times..... I just set the idle a touch higher than normal.....

I don't know why I didn't see this sooner. Alright. Nick, I think I machined your head, if I'm not mistaken. If I am mistaken, oh well. Anyways, You mentioned that you can see movement in the radiator with the cap off. THis is good, and can tell you two things at once. #1- You DO NOT have a head gasket leak. Reason why, is that if you did, you would get a faceful of coolant with the cap off and your gaping squirrely eyes peering into the neck.... #2- coolant is moving, and the impellar SHOULD be working. However, it may not..... You will have to remove the clutch cover to check. Or, just remove the water pump cover, and have a look see at the impellar. Now, you Don't have a head gasket leak. Stop wasting $20/gasket, and figure out the problem. Where is your overflow bottle? I moved mine to the front, and haven't had a problem since..... As long as coolant is circulating, your temp guage should work. Is that small line off the head perhaps pinched? Anyways, see what else you can come up with. And stop taking the damn head off!!!!!

Now now, that's just not fair!! My brother in law, (with whom I am very close with) has an '03 6.0L. He hauls horses, and I have driven/ridden in his truck too many times to count, hell it might as well be my own!!! And as I have a 7.3, (which BTW is a helluva engine as well!! ) I do have quite a bit with the 6.0's. I think Western New York parallels Texas in that EVERYONE drives a diesel!! Of course, anyone that gives a damn anyways.... I say go for it Broke, you will not be disappointed. And if you don't like it, send me the payment book. (Just be sure you send the truck along with it.) the wife needs a new ride!!

And another B-day wish fine sir!!!

Precisely. If you want to do it efficiently, and with a on your face you want a diesel. Hauling 11,000 # and getting 13 MPG, all at 65+ MPH, yea baby!!! Show me any gasser that will do that, and I will show them my tailights for a few seconds before they get dusted. Diesel is the only way to tow economy wise combined with all the power you want. And 5th whel towing isn't the only method of towing. I tow ALL my trailers from the rear frame mounted hitch. Works splendidly. Loaded properly, a "bumper tag" trailer isn't a problem. If you want an unbalanced trailer load, and you desire to tow it, than go fifth...... It will tow better. But a bumper pull wll do the job just fine. Gooseneck trailers are also good, but obviously you can't do that either with an Excursion. And I pose this question to you, Why WOULDN'T you want a diesel in your Excursion, or any 3/4 ton and up truck? Diesel X's are the mack Daddy of all creature comfort cruiser....... More rom than my Crew cab, and the same power?? I'll take that....... Only if I didn't need a pickup bed...... (And I don't haul from the bed.... Just payload)