Stomp77

Bang for your buck = Awesome

It goes without saying that a properly built shock valved for your needs and weight is the best. However, many of us are just want a better shock up front on our banshee's and are not looking for maximum performance. I have discovered an excellent solution! Naysayers will scoff and haters will hate but I blew 3 sets of banshee front shocks and got fed the F-up. Looking for a decent alternative I couldn't help noticing that my warriors' shocks have taken massive air and years of abuse without complaint. I went after some exact specs on the warrior, It weighs in at around 10+ pounds heavier and has one inch less suspension travel than the banshee but has an equal length shock. Extremely important is the geometry of the suspensions travel, Fortunately they are almost identical, so what you end up with is a shock set up for more unsprung weight and slightly less travel along the same pressure angles. This warrior achieves this by using a stiffer spring and tighter valving. What this means for us big heavy guys say 240+. Is a very strong, smooth shock that bolts on and works beautifully. I personally love the stiffer ride, the bike feels much more planted and best of all I have yet to bottom out on a big jump using the warrior shocks. Granted if you are a smaller guy these things would be somewhat harsh and unforgiving but they support my big ass like a dream. Warrior shocks on ebay are dirt cheap and I have been running mine hard for 2+ years with no issues. If your bottoming out your stock banshees shocks and don't have the bones laying around for some works or elkas ect... this is a bolt on fix that won't break the bank, or your bike.

I sent a message to wicked 350 on ebay, he was the user selling them before. I guess I am stuck getting the FullFlights. the ones with the newer heims but would much rather have the wickeds. I am starting to get the feeling wicked went out of business...

This bike is more for trails than anything, Its ported for a stock stroke, I was thinking the 33's with a boss adapter + some pods would be best but I really don't know much about Keihin carbs, thanks for clearing things up for me.

I picked up some vitos 68mm big bore cylinders for dirt cheap from ebay. I hogged out the transfers and cleaned up the vito's port work. I was running .80 over on ported stock jugs (68mm)and stock carbs jetted 310 on the mains with very similar port work and shee ran great. I was thinking of going with 33mm pwk carbs for my new vito's jugs instead of 35's to preserve throttle response. I see alot of guys talking about the 34pj's I do not know much about them, I also wondered what would the 28mm pwk's do? My guess is that the 35mm pwk would be mushy on the bottom end. I ride trails and street with t'5's, rad valve's, with pro style reeds, and a stock head. I am totally confused on which way to go, thanks!

Engine ice is nothing more than the bio safe radiator fluid from nappa in the green jug. a little "water wetter" from advanced autoparts and some distilled water. Mix 50:40:10 anti-freez-distilled water- "water wetter". shake well and enjoy. I like to jet by plug chops, and fine tune her by wearing shorts. I'll do a few laps, and can feel blast waves of heat hard and sloppy when rich, Lean is fierce and crazy hot, but when she's right its that sorta just... magick hot.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PbjUx1zSkqc Here is the youtube link to the video. I am leaning towards bad bearing from Tony Dukas Racing, the crank was installed in a very clean environment so debris is unlikely. I also poured 2 stroke oil all over the crank and rotated it feeling for crunching or catching and there was nothing that i could feel. I did miss a shift and hit neutral about 2 minutes before this happened but I do not think that caused this catastrophic bearing seizure. ARRRGHHH I hate not knowing what caused this...

I am about to give up, say FUCK this thing and pitch it into the damn lake. I used a TDR trued and welded rebuilt racing crank with hot rods extra bearings blah blah, I honed the cylinders and slapped in some new wisecos and went back to the stock head. For the break in everything went smooth as butter. I finished the break in by the book (clymers) and then did a plug chop. Jetting was spot on 300 mains pro flow airbox adapter with a K&N plus the lid still on and 25 pilots one turn out. She started 1st or third kick and idled like a dream. I did a quick leak check with ether just to be extra sure, all was well. So I gassed up using 93 octane and mixed 24:1 using yamalube type r and a ratio rite cup. I rode maybe 15 miles when all at once she lost power and started clanking. I shut her down in the middle of BFE, and checked for lots of heat but everything felt normal. The only small issue I had was the oil seal behind the drive sprocket was leaking pretty bad but I checked it before I left and everything seemed fine. Why in the hell would a brand new crank seize up like that. I am going back over to the work trailer to take some pictures and a video. The piston and bores look just fine, there is nothing at all in my experience that would explain this, The lower part of the rod is discolored and looks to have gotten very hot. I am sure this crank is probably toast. WHEEEE at least 500 bucks down the pisser in only one ride, a brand new motor built like this outta last for years.... What is weird is the only thing that is funky is the lower rod needle bearing. all of the main bearings on the crank itself seem fine. WHY did this happen? I have no clue I thought i hit all of the bases during and after the build process, Please someone who has some serious knowledge help me figure this out before I do something stupid like buy a raptor....

If you pull in the clutch and coast you WILL weld the pushrod to the bearing. Ask me how I know :geek: Just try to keep from pulling in the clutch and Coasting, downshift and stay on the gear instead. It helps a lot.... Just my .02

I ended up swapping the inner hub that holds the clutch springs off of my other bike. The original is junk, stripped threads plus the snapped bolt. Guess its Time for a lock-out

Man I just Poo-d the Screwtch... My torque wrench was set to what the book says, about 7 pounds but damned if I didnt snap off one of the clutch spring bolts! After punching myself in the face for being so stupid I adjusted the two closest springs real tight next to the missing spring and left the rest a little loose. It looks ok but i dunno about riding it like that. I get the feeling it will be ok, but I am not for sure. Anybody ever seen or heard of this being done this before?

Ricky Stator!!!!!! I'm saving up for them, 590.00 something, patented ball joints and such very nice looking, i have never ridden them but I did a lot of home work before choosing, unless of course you are talking long-travel but that is quite different! My 2cents

I finally got my hands on some shiny newish 14 inch heavy duty shocks. They have only 4.1 inchs' of travel, compared to the banshee's 9.1inchs, my buddy thinks they will be waaay to stiff. but then again they are double valved and rated for around 1400+ pounds! I figured the stock banshee shocks to be good for at least 700 pounds or so. The new shocks are in the mail and were practically a gift. Built by Progressive they are supposed to be nice and smooth on golf-carts and such. I will have them to put on next week but alas, i am not finished with everything else yet on my banshee so I will not be able to mount them. SO, we are left to argue and I am wondering if he is right and this is going to be fubar when assembled, I keep thinking of the things he was saying like, crazy stiff! and bouncy as hell! A sort of scary mental image keeps forming of a super mega-bounce! Comin off a sweet jump.... then, WHAM I do a napoleon into the nearest hillside and or onlooker. Unfortunately there is no sand here and i am stuck dodging trees and small woodland creatures. My other friends are of two minds also, #1-wow you got a great deal those are sweet. #2- duh! you are retarded and they are going to be waaaaaaay to stiff and or you will bottom out and explode the valving on the first jump. I do admit it, I really like soaring thru the air, thus the trashed stockers. but after riding said friends highly modified 400ex and then another guys yfz 450 back to back I was at the time positively sure that stiffer was-is better for Huge landings. Anything is going to be an improvement over my blown stockers I guess. A happy chance brought me these progressives for pennies and I am stoked and over-exited to have my second to last piece!!!!!!!!!! I have been slowly re-building Everything since I dunno fall of '03,. I really miss riding! ahhhh crap i'm wasted, & rambling, no comment necessary *) but, All comments very much appriciated! Those in favor of the mega bounce say: Aye! those in favor of the exploding valves and busted shocks say nay...

I've got my eye on some works shocks for a harley davidson superglide. They meaure 14.5 inches eye to eye. My buddy wants 60 bucks for them and they are hardly even scratched. The chrome looks great, brain like shiny!!!! I am worried tho about how much travel the internals of the harley shock would have??? I know the banshee shock has around 9.1 inches of travel. The harley shock, i just don't know about, i am guessing that it has less travel, along with a very stiff spring rate and very smooth valving for a great ride under load. my friends superglide weighs around six hundred pounds without a rider! Throw two fat ass fast food guzzling porkers on there and the stock shocks for his harley would groan, but only a little, i realize on a banshee with a full tank of gas and after eating a large pizza i might just top 500pd so it is gonna prolly be a stiff ride, Kurt, my friend has two sets of shocks for sale, his stock harley shocks which are the same length and just as shiny for 20 bucks. I was going to buy them and try them first, but someone else wants the works shocks and he needs to sell them now, he just called and offered me first dibs. I am thinking i can get the works then get them revalved to make them softer, also the works shocks have pre-load and compression adjusters, and the stock ones only have preload. Both will physically work on stock banshee arms , (i think), the stock harley shocks, or the works ones, I think the works were pretty pricey? I've heard they are not so great comapred to others. Tcs aixs, ect... .02 cents anyone?

This is a really nice limo. Yes it is, (dramatic pause) Now Suck My Cock!