itsaripper

First off I hate paying full price for something I know is cheaper somewhere else. So go to your local Kawasaki dealer and ask for a price on a carb for a 2001 KX 100. Its a PWK 28. My local dealer said $102 each. But on www.powersportspro.com they are $92. You have to sign on to get in on that site but good price.

Big Mike, A easy way to remember the jetting thing. When the temp goes down the jetting goes up. When the temp goes up the jetting goes down. The same with elevation, up go down, down go up. Now that you are real confused try to figure out the differenc between mikuni and kehin jets

The information I have gathered says you should be .030 to .035 on the piston to head clearance, at the squish band. Check the clearance in four places like 12 o'clock and 3,6,9, etc. I think for one thousants your measure could be off. Have you talked to Chris Paxton at CPRacing yet? He workes with these heads all the time.

dnhyoung, Sorry I didn't get back to you sooner. I haven't been on the computer for a couple of days. I mostly ride the banshee on the sand, when we can make it to Coos Bay. I can't seem to get my old yz 4oo to run right. So for now I am just working on the banshee and scraching my head on the yz. It seem like everone around here is busy till after Christmas.

When the right plug is fouling, about 9 out of 10 times, it is your right crank seal. When the piston goes up and creates suction to draw in the fuel it also get some trans oil and burns it and fouls the plug.

I think when you get the new head on it will take away the bog. Well the 34s would go good on the 370 stroker. Befor I spent $60 I would take some JB weld and fill that up and cut the little slots out with my die grinder. See if some slides are on ebay and try it.

Oilsmoke Have you put more compresson into your motor. Why I ask is, when you put 34mm carbs on a stock compresson engine, it has a hard time sucking gas up the needle jet at low rpms because the vacume is to low. You aren't having any trouble once things start getting wound up? More compresson would cause more vacume and throttle response. I have the same mods as you except aftermarket head and 20cc domes. The carbs are stock tapper bored to 27.5 and my throttle responce is great. I mean idleing along in second and punch the throttle and instant pull, right away. Think about going back down to 28 or 30 carbs.

Kinda exspencive isn't it. But I think it would work. The problem that the round slides have, is that they have lots of turbulance on both sides of the slide where it mates with the carb body. It doesn't improve with flow. So people go to flat slides.

You are 15 years late. There hasn't a new car or pickup sold in the US with a carb sense around 1988. It all fuel injection. Find the air cleaner follow the(usually a big three inch hose) hose. It goes to the air horn(used to control the incoming air) then the intake manifold. The fuel injection will be there. Some time it will look like a carb. Go to the liberary and look in the auto repair manuels.

Your thinken right. The high hp banshee's use strait cut gears. But they cost. I just happend to be on www.superiorsleeve.com last night and they sell them $425. Just a idea, maybe a street bike uses the same clutch as the banshee but with the strait gears. Maybe the RZ, I never payed attention when looking at a RZ motor. Somebody know???

Just one of the "Over the hill gang". 50

Did you have the carbs bored strait through, or taper-bored? I measured my slides and get 1.079in converted to mm 27.38. If the bore is 28 you may have too much room on the sides of the slides, which will lean your mix out. When you put your finger over the intake you restrickt the air and that brings air-gas mix more in line with what it should be, and so it idles back. You shouldn't need to run over 27.5 on the pilots and 320 on the mains.

Fixit are you talking about the angles on the transfer tubes. How they blow into the cylinder?

While you have it tore down that far just go ahead and look at the clutch plates. If you are getting slippage there is prolly one or two of the fiber plates that have a lot of wear. If so new clutch time. If not put all six of the heaver springs on. Probably need a EZ pull leaver now.

First don't polish the intake, just take out material and leave it somewhat ruff, to keep the gas mix from forming droplets in the intake. But go ahead and polish the exhaust till you can see your face in it. Get on ebay and put in foredom. That is the type of porting tool you need. The ones with a flexable shaft and foot control. For hogging out everything lookup carbide burrs, single cut. Then you are going to need some sanding wheels or bee hives. You won't hurt anything cleaning up the ports. Where you get into trouble is when you raise the exhaust too much and the transfers or make a port to wide so a ring sticks out into it and hangs up. Porting is real simple and real compicated. In other words you can screw up your $300 jugs real fast. So study this some befor you become a weedend HACKER (that is what backcountry calls us). Good luck

Hi and its good to hear from you. Its so wierd to see newbi by Backcountry. You were a old timer when I joined back on the old, old forum. Hope you can keep all the business strait. Drop by as often as ya can Dan

The quick way first. Turn on gas and open the little screw at bottem of carb. Let some gas flow through. If no gas, take off the float bowl and spray some brake clean or bearymans kemtool up through the main jet and also the pilet too. Put back on and try to start. Start with a new set of plugs. Should have said that first.

Well lets see. Its a...a...RZ Good guess or what? I see your frame was welded. The clutch and primary gear are strait cut. That is good, I read that high Hp banshees use those to stop the crank from pushing sideways. Is something wrong with the clutch? You are going to have to give a nother clue.

He just answered a question over in banshee repair and mods.(nov 18th) If you want to see if someone is active on the forum. Go to search and type in the user name and all their post will come up, the latest first.

When my nephew got PT high-revs, he ask the mechanic how he could keep them from blueing. He said always run higher octane. So he went to running two gallons of 114 to three gallons of 93. His pipes still have no blueing after a year of running.

If you boys can get on Planet sand, go to dyno runs and down to In frame pipe test. Redline did a dyno on a 370 longRod and it was ported. The shear pipe made the most hp with cpi right under them. Now the next pipe was the lowly FMF Fattys. WHAT They beat the Toomeys? YEAH But I thought from all the talk on here the toomeys make five more hp while doing a back flip. Well there you are, go look the t5s were a hp down and the t6 was terrible. I thought the t5s were supposed to get better with porting? Well if you have a problem with this test or the parameters of the motor go take it up with Mr Redline, I don't care who wins. I have always thought they seemed a little over rated.

You should try to figure this out befor ya put a new top end on, and have a chance of burning it up. Change the sparkplugs first, then swap the spark plug caps around. If these things don't help tear into the carb on the side that is backfireing and you prolly have something in the main jet.

Wow nobody bid on them!!! Well how much do you want for them? You sold them already right?

Hey! I found a site that showed the process somewhat. The process is real interesting. Go to www.gifford.ca Go down to Gifford brothers.

What do you do to hydro form a piece of metal? I understand the hydro = water but what is the process, and how?