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Will this work with Gray plastic or only on Blue? Adam

Call up the local Harley Shop. Ask them for who they recommend for Chrome. They always have the numbers to the better chrome, powder coaters, and fabricators in the area. Same with custom cycle shops Adam

Hey all, Thanks for taking the time to read this post. I am currently working on my bike. I am doing some changes in prep for the install of a 10 mil Serval. Here is what is going on. I am working on the 10mil install and I have gotten to the Carb and air box problem. I have cut the old mounts out of the frame, fabricated new mounts, positioned the air box on the Carbs and have tacked everything in place. Because of the intake, the angle of the Carbs and the height of the air box I need to relocate the coolant res. Since I am also doing this, I figured I would clean up the entire area and move the electrical upfront. I think that I will be installing the electrical where the TORS box is below the Gas tank by the coil. Now, where would be a good place to install the Coolant Res? I was thinking in front of the radiator, by the brake T-block. Now, I realize that this is not accessible without taking the fronts off, but really how often to I need to put more coolant in the Res? I think that if the res runs dry, I have more issues and I need to remove the fenders anyways. I only need to be able to see the res. If anyone has any ideas, or thoughts on this that would be awesome. More than likely I will use a Threaded block to secure the reservoir. Similar to how a battery is secured in a car/truck. I will get some pictures up tomorrow of the project, I have been working as I can on this so I am a bit slow. I do not have all of the tools to cut steel, but I can weld, grind and do a decent job. Adam

I have not ridden mine too much, but I will say that the relocation is wicked. They are set back and down, I am 6' with long legs and they are a godsend. It also makes it perfect for the lockout/brake level position. There is no need to bend the brake pedal, just adjust all the way down and you are golden. I have the 2 row, but richie said adding a third row is easy and he will do the mod to them. The quality is something you would expect from a professional TIG welder. These pegs were not manufactured in someone's basement by a guy that has never welded before. Again, quality of the welds is extremely impressive. The width of the pegs feels great on the arch of your foot and they are very supportive. Adam

I was never worried about the rings. I was worried more about the piston skirts. The let it warm up at idle ride varying throttle to 1/4 for 15 minutes. Let the bike cool. Then ride again varying throttle allowing the power band to about 3/4 of throttle then start getting into it. Add more oil will cause a lean mixture which can be as bad as lean jets. I have alway run a 2 stroke this way and never had problems. You mentioned top fuel drag racers. They don't get many passes on those motors before they are rebuilt.

There are quite a few posts here on this. Look up heat cycles. I personally don't ride it like I stole until I have done proper heat cycles. Adam

I like Richies, I like the lower feel of the pegs. I'm 6' tall and they feel better than stock position.

Well I don't have a Clymers for download but the blue link at the bottom of my Sig will get you to a downloadable service manual. The clutch is easy. If you did a rebuild you can easily handle the clutch. Adam

...And Tyler blows out Zilla's birthday candles for him! Zilla is a good guy, He has pretty thick skin. He gets a lot of shit (9 1/2 pages) but he really takes it well! He would do well in federal POUND ME IN THE ASS prison.

This is a mild thread!

are those cylinders ported? Looks like there has been some exhaust port work done on them. You can easily rebuild for 300, most shops will inspect your cylinders for free, mic them and tell you what you are looking at. They may say they are in spec, and you just need a hone. There is a Service manual in my Sig! Adam Welcome to the banshee world

Parts added

Welcome to the forum. The cheapest bang for your buck is a adjustable timing plate. 2 hp throughout the curve for 30 bucks. Set it at + 4 degrees. Next mod is ported cylinders, dune/play ports - 300 - 350 bucks + gaskets. That's then its a cool head 200ish bucks w/domes, buy NOSS or Chariot - you don't have to change the cylinder studs. Get appropriate domes for your elevation, tell them you want to run pump gas. Get a TORS eliminator kit, make sure it has drill and tap - under 50, this makes everything easier. Then get a carp sync tool, such as the EMPI Vacuum tool - Awesome and makes tuning a breeze. After those mods, its going to give you more and more power, but it will cost more. Still cheaper than a 4 stroke bang for buck. Download the service manual from my sig if you do not have one. Again welcome to the forum, take a look around and have some fun! Adam

I purchased some fenders from bansheeryder_69 and he shipped them out quickly. The plastics were as described. He was kind enough to send me pictures of anything that was no perfect so that I would see what I was getting! Thank you bansheeryder_69, I really appreciate it. Highly recommended seller!! Adam

Welcome to the site brother! Adam

I posted this a month back! its perfect, Weld a nut on the tab, run a 8mm bolt through it, line the box up to the new location and weld it place. The 8mm bolt serves as the new bung to hold the box in place and you are golden! Very useful with 35's on a CUB/SERVAL cylinder. You can remove the bolts and slide the airbox right off no problem : ) Adam

In VA, because you are in the military working in the field of electrician or plumbing. With 10 yrs you are able to take the exam. I had the commander write a letter, I submitted, then took the test and they sent me a card! I know little about plumbing but I can drive through Baghdad like driving in your local city. Adam

Jetting should be around. 25 pilots, 280 mains. Air screw .5 - 1 turn out. Are your carbs sync'd well? That's a good starting base. Mix your fuel at 40:1 do a plug chop and check the plugs. Where are you at in Va? You can DL the service manual from my sig Adam

Lol, I am 34, I make more than you, I have more money in the bank and a ton of toys. I am a certified Master Plumber in the state of Virginia. .... Oh shut the fuck up man. You prolly have a complete stock banshee live in the same room that you went to high school, IE your moms house! BTW tell her I think I left my wallet there last night. Listen word of advice. Delete your account and start over. No one cares about how special you are, how good you are or anything else. Look at your post and you will see your a douche. It's like me going to a Camaro forum and saying the same shit

For the Mods you have, T-5's or PC would be the best choice. Either pipe will run well after a port Job so it's a good investment too. Adam

Permatex Aviation-Form-A-Gasket will work well to seal it up. Pick it up at NAPA. Paint it on, give it 30 minutes and turn on the fuel. This is not a RTV or Silicone based Sealant. It's kinda like roofing tar. It is really good stuff. Adam

You can download the service manual from the link in my sig. Adam

My leak down tester is 19 bucks from home depot. Test block for plumbing, 2 x fernco's with plugs, 1 3/4 x 4" black iron nipple the 3/4 x1 bushing and 3/4 plug. Works great! Adam

The service manual says that is rebuild time. Dl the service manual from my link. It's free. Pull you pipes and check your pistons. Make sure no broken skirts. Do a leak down test to check for air leaks. Since to bike is new to you do a good check up and the run the hell out of it!! Enjoy Adam

I run an airbox with the KN stock type filter and KN powerlid with outerwear. Good performance 0 water Adam