ticktock

Pro X is a good replacement piston, at least in the 4 stroke world. I am not sure on WSM. I personally would use a site sponsor, or check a local shop near you. Call the dealer they can point you to a shop to check cylinders for bore. You might only need a hone? Adam

Carbs and idle are not Sync'd correctly. Did you Sync with a vacuum tool or eye? Use a tool after you get the correct pilots and you will be fine I think

Last I knew, CP regulates the MSRP of the cylinder. That's why everyone sells for the same price. I doubt you are going to see the Serval introductory price again. Just my thoughts, Adam

UPP makes a pretty solid product and I wouldnt be scared of using them. If you end up buying them, or deciding on them rather, give Wildcard a call. Brandon is a UPP dealer. I am sure that other sponsors are as well, but Brandon is for sure. Hopefully he can beat that price. Adam

@ Dave - Nothing big needed, Chariot bowl and Pancake bearing are the last of my needs until I put it together and find out I "Have to have" something else! As is always the way!! @ Zach - No sir, I was planning on running the CDI by where the TORS box was until Tyler suggested keeping it away from the coil in case of electrical interference.. TORs is long gone! Quick question though. I saw that the right side of the PWK has a spot for an idle screw Can I drill/tap that for an idle screw and plug/weld the left hole closed? Adam

If it was something that I fucked up it would have happened a lot sooner than the 20ish hours that the bike was running. Everything was clean, serviceable, in specs and new. I am sure that he was beating the crap out of it, it was his first atv. I can't be sure what he did I was not there. I am throwing some money at some parts, giving him an OEM crank and fixing it for him. He is going to buy the piston. Hopefully Jim tells me the cylinder is good and it can be salvaged. Adam

The super stock pistons are 1mm down

It wasnt the hour, it was that 1 minute after the hour! Damn, I was going to see if he wanted to trade for my CPI SB IF Adam

Willard was banned for attempting to scam Adam

just so no flames, that motor is not a 10mil. That is my stock ported, still waiting on a few things for the 10mil. Thanks, got any pink fronts?

Well, I finished everything up today. Here are the pictures. With my time so short I am going to just run it like this, and then paint it when I get back. I plan on getting out the FIEND and shaving off the Coolant RES mounts on the back of the airbox. Adam P.S. Don't like my Pink Shock? Phuck you!

Yes there was thrust washers in the big end of the rod. I am sure that the oiler port is plugged at this point. I am waiting on the gasket for the cases before I pull the crank out. I hate having parts on the bench! Adam

Hey all, I sold my 450R on Thursday. I sold it to another guy in the Navy and he picked it up, I gave him the title, and other things I had. Cleaned it up a little more for him since he seemed like a nice guy. We talked and he went riding and loved it. He was hooked! He took it riding on to a park about 40 miles away and rode it all day. He calls me up at the end of the day and says that he has bad news! I asked what he was talking about and he said that the kick starter does not work. He said that it left him stranded in an area but he was able to load it up. So he brought it to my house. I looked it over and determined in a few minutes that the motor was seized. Gears in my head start turning - Timing chain break? clutch blow up? whats wrong with this. So I drain the oil, Brass particles, WTF, that was a new Hot Rods Crank! 225 bucks! So I pulled the tank started looking it over pulled the valve cover and saw the timing chain was good. At this point I asked him what he wanted to do, I was waiting for the "you fucked me over I want my money back" line but it never came. He said that he would like for his ATV to run, and he would like to get it fixed. I asked him if he wanted me to fix it and he said yes. I got him involved and we pulled the motor, put it on the bench and started taking it apart. Piston = Garbage, Cylinder = Garbage, Crankshaft = Garbage. When we got it down to the base I told him this is as far as we go until we get gaskets. I do not like taking them apart and having them sit around on the bench. So we stopped. Today I went and cleaned the outside of the motor, flushed everything to get as much brass out as possible and basically do a good clean-up of the motor. I installed a HR crank, New OEM piston, Cylinder, Stage II Web Cam, Timing Chain (Cheap-0, not the weisco) rejetted, and rode this bike for about 10 - 15 hours tops. Everything went smooth until I ruined the axle bearings. In less than 30 hours of time he destroyed all of my hard work. The cylinder is scored, I am taking it to a guy to have it looked at, providing the scores and not bad it can be fixed without replating I was told. I worked hard on this motor and bike to get it in excellent condition, then I rode it and did not like it, so I sold it. The guy told me that he has really bad luck in life. He told me some stories of his Jetski blowing up on him after a rebuild, and a bunch of warranty work that had to be preformed. Either the guy is a mess, or he beats the living shit out of everything he owns and accepts the fate. Adam All 4 corners of the piston and cylinder look like this. To me this looks like a classic cold seize in a 2 stroke

Welcome to BHQ! I wouldn't take it apart until your compression is in later service limits. You can DL a service manual for free from the link below!

25 pilot 280 main should be good. Might be a tad rich. I would get 290 280,270 jets. And go from there My other shee is T-5, 280 and runs great Adam

I have a kit minus the carb. Cable, intake, airbox adapter. No carb. I have forsale for 200 but I could do 150+ shipping on. I couldn't get enough power out of it. So I'm going twin 35's Tuning is easy with the EMPI tool Adam

What would be the optimum ratio and oil for a 10mil Serval/Cub, and would that ratio need to be changed for 4mil Servals/Cubs running pump Gas. If we run the better recommended oils at their optimum ratio's 40 - 45:1 we are actually saving a little bit of money this way. I understand that jetting is a big concern and the bike will have to be rejetted for a different mixture, and those that do not think saving a dollar here or there is important we could get into the economy situation on a different thread. I personally prefer to run an engine at its optimum performance, with fuel/oil ratio. Any input is appreciated. Adam

I run mine 40:1 with yamalube. I am switching to 927 so I may drop to 32:1 but after reading the Mull page I may stick 40:1. Adam

PM Sent on Straights

Hell ya, great prices!! Thanks Travis

First make sure all the lines are straight. Push the slider all the way up, flake out the nose, oh wait we are not packing a parachute?

How much for the little red wagon? Seriously, pm sent on axle Adam

With the search, I like to google search then select more from BHQ and search that way. I usually find what I want Adam

Well your first post did say we were all sucking each other off. First of all being a new guy is hard. No one knows you, know one likes you and know one knows you. Sit down by the fire, grab a beer look around and see what's up. Lots of knowledge, good people and great deals man Just be cool Adam

I didn't think of electrical interference on a 12v system. Can move it to the front like that pretty easy. Trail riding, but there may or may not be water involved. I am running a stock box with a K&N Power lid + a K&N Filter. I should switch up to a UNI filter for the box. Ok, I will ditch the Res. I didnt think I needed it but thought that I would keep it. Adam