Jereme6655

wonder if you could grab the inlet flange on the carb and carefully twist it down a little bit.....i believe they are a press fit and that's it. Also you could try either reed spacers or angled intake boots to try and get that intake nipple moved...

well if your talking the difference of a cheetah cub vs a wampus....there is no difference...in porting. They are the same port work cylinders......the difference is that the wampus IS a mono-block cylinder that is designed to LOOK stock. i will admit....if you either don't know banshees or if you know banshees but do not get down eye level with the motor....the odds of you being able to tell are slim to none. So the wampus is just a cheetah cub that looks like stock cylinders. More designed for street-racers.

the bike may be able to walk his bike.....but the rider may be keeping the bike from walking his bike. How about ordering in some new domes from some of our sponsors....drop the CC to raise your compression and start running some reace fuel. Then you can just pull the head again and throw in the other domes to go back to non-race fuel.

i also believe that you must do a DC conversion by floating the ground on your stator and adding a regulator for the ignition system....if you still want to do this....then there are 2 people that you could talk to.....MattSCS who is coming out with light bars.....and also Snopszinski.....he's already done alot of the LED lights on banshees....

could be from lack of compression....seen someone get a piston in once without lining up the ring pin in the ring groove with the ring ends.......scored the shit out of the jug. i know you say it has compression.....and i could put those pistons in without rings at all and still have enough compression to fake out the "thumb test"......truth is.....you need a compression tester to actually know if you do have compression.

i wonder if your floats are hanging up a little and its burning the fuel in the bowl and then running out of fuel (causing a lean condition) which would result in a high rev situation.

Compression test, check for choke tube between the carbs, do a leak down test. You may also be off with your pilots...... FMF pipes like 27.5 pilots..........don't know of many that change the pilot even in the winter. You may jsut be running so fat on start up that its just not willing to fire easily.

wow.....gotta admit...for you being 15 you sure seem to know a decent amount. looks like someone has been paying attention on the site....good job. With 130 psi you wont be needing anything more than 93. 125psi i usually what is attainable with stock cylinders after a rebuild.

looks alright to me....might be JUST a tad lean. and i would rather waste a set of plugs doing plug chops than just run them looking at the electrode end. ive been told by more than one sponsor on here that it should be a 2mm ring at the BASE end of the plug....being why you have to cut it down.

you could also call a sponsor.....i'd recommend Jeff at FAST (only cause that is who i have only dealt with) and he was absolutely awsome to talk with. Ive heard the same about kevin at hjr though. I'd ask him about how much can be safely taken off of it. you MAY have to get it rechambered for an optimal +4mil burn.....he'd know the answer. And if you'd like.....he also sells shaved head....i think they are around $60....that's what i did....this way if i have an issue with deto while riding i can hit up camp and swap out to my stock head....yea it'll run like junk (performance wise)...but im not running as high of compression causing the deto and am able to finish out the weekend. At least how i look at it haha.

okay cody.... lets start simple. how hard do you have to push it to get it to start? when you rebuilt it did you clean the carbs out? how about re-stall the choke tube that goes between the carbs? if the tube IS installed in teh right spot then i would do a compression test real quick and let us know where your running with compression. did you happen to do a leakdown test when you finsihed the rebuild?

no you dont need to worry about honing it too much. you would be standing there for a LONG time with a hone to take out enough metal to goof things up. Hones are actually just meant to knock down the edges of machined metal. If you have ever looked at a electron micro-scope photo of metal from a cyliner after its been bored you would probably be horrified...it looks like jagged, serated blade knife edges......then you see it after its been chased with a hone.....totally different... all the sharp edges are knocked down/off and the ones that do remain have a rounded end on them. pretty wild to see actually.

when does the motor rev up? RIGHT at start up..... or when you turn the choke off does it rev for a bit. is your throttle cable sticking slightly? any mods? what is your jetting set at now and what elevation are you at?

Theres a write-up in the Technical area that was done by AKheathen.....its for how to repair the Hinson baskets.....basically gets the point your talking across...

hey chris....just incase someone is managing to try and mail you something....shouldn't your address be clinton TWP......haha....i know it's still got a 99% chance of making it.....unless the post office can't read the zip code lol

haha....no no......alot of guys will just shut off the fuel valves on the tanks and just pull the fuel lines off and hook it to a small "purge tank" that has hookups for the fuel lines on it......just a tiny little tank that you can put a little gas/oil mix in. You do not have to burn the entire tank in order to purge.

sounds like you need to tear your carbs ALL the way down and clean everything in them. THEN i would suggest you build a leak down tester and do a leak down test on your motor. Because it slightly sounds like you may have an air leak and that is what is keeping it from starting and when it does start....reving to the moon. BUT it is also odd sounding because you state that when you pull the choke it started to rev more.......which is odd because if you choked it and it had an air leak it should have lowered the rev's some....

okay....that could be how to fix the part. But the real question is why did the problem start. Did you do anything to your bike recently like pulling the head off or did you change anything or run it out of fuel? any recent motor mods?

how about raising the right to the left?

purging is just running the bike on gas/oil mix before you put it away for the day. it gets run until the alky has been run out and the gas/oil is firing the engine. NOT by shuting the alki off and running the bike out of fuel and THEN running it on gas....that will be a sure way to burn up your motor.

okay.....you got me confused.......you should keep the stock pilot jets (25) unless you put pipes on it. if you put pipes on it you should go up to a 27.5 pilot. also it depends what elevation your at to help aid in jet sizing. around here (1200-1400) feet about sea-level.....i'd suggest around a 220-230. Also do you have your choke tube in place between the carbs? and on the right nipple?....ive seen where someone once got their choke tube on the carb boss's that are in the same area. and is your tors disconnected? (if not unplug the little black box that is under the gas tank on the left side.....then try and ride it) is your filter clean? a really really plugged up or over oiled filter will also plug up the intake like a freak. check....try and describe the exact sounds/feelings......then report back...

Ok.......when you rotate the knob on the top of the TORS box.....it is pulling the slide up to adjust the idle. This is what you use to adjust your idle on a stock set of carbs with the TORS. There are no idle screws on the carb....unless you have purchased a "TORS eliminator kit" which requires you to drill out a hole in the side of both carbs and INSTALL a idle screw kit, and then install new carb caps. The knobs on the top of the TORS are used as both the idle adjustment AND the carb sync adjustment.

did i miss the scary accident?

fmf sells the equivalent of the powercore silencers WITH spark arrestors......theyre called TURBINECORE spark arresters......look for those.

also as it was mentioned that it might LOOK ok.....the cylinder could also be egg shaped.