Jereme6655

yeah.....banshees that run in mud or any condition that is wet SHOULD NOT BE RUN WITH POD FILTERS......if your the kind of guy thats going to ride mud or water then you really need to look into getting a stock airbox back for your banshee.

TN... gotta keep things simple.... Start with a compression test and then do a leakdown test on the motor. Then run down a list of EVERYTHING that is done to your bike and report back....

you cant just go buy a top end kit and slap it in......well you could but it aint gonna work. You need to take your cylinders to a shop that can bore/hone them.....they will MEAUSRE your cylinders and then they will order pistons in for it.....if they are a good shop...THEN they will bore/hone the jugs after they receive the pistons they ordered and measure them. You can't just go out and buy a new set of pistons and expect that they are going to fit in the cylinder and run. call one of our site sponsors......average price of a rebuild with bore/hone pistons, gaskets and the normal stuff is about $300 also the only way to really guarentee that your old piston is out of the cases is to open them up. really.....its not hard. plus if there does happen to be a piece down there and it comes up on your new pistons and smashes the shit out of them and scores your cylinders your gonna be really pissed at yourself for having to pay another $300 cause you tried to go the easy route....

Hey TN.......im guessing that you live in TN but where abouts.....im wondering if there is a member near you that would be willing to give you a hand on trying to figure out the problems.....

Nut..... It's Is a bearing retainer...... But the bearing that goes there are has its own bearing retainer clip designed into the the bearing itself.... That's what the tab in it does

egh....to be honest id keep looking.........while it is a clean looking bike i can find you clean one for cheaper. Just keep your eyes open and keep looking around. Hell i found one near me that the guy was asking $1200 and all i believe it needed was a rebuild cause it was running low on compression. Granted i can't be sure cause i didn't look at it.....but that was a 01 that looked really clean also...

yup....ive seen that before too cam.....made me laugh when i saw it.....the guy ran up to yamaha and the dealer actaully had one......think it was like $3 or something....i told him i didnt think it was needed although it couldn't hurt (couldnt remember if that bearing had a clip at the moment) so he grabbed it. asked him what he was hitting the cases with to get them apart......he said with a dead-blow hammer when the rubber mallet wouldn't work....

just send a PM to MattSCS on the site here......he's our resident suspension sponsor that rebuilds shocks. He will let you know if your issue is normal or if there is a way to fix it......personally i don't like playing with things like that.....serious injuries can happen if you dont know what your doing....

are you turning the idle screw that is ON TOP of the TORS boxes themselves? ive seen people think that the air/fuel screw on the side of the carbs think that those were the idle screws before....

oh no no....im definately all for fixing it yoruself. and if you ask on here bluebanshee....you may find another one of us members that knows more about these motors that is in your area. Also the bikes do not really like to shift with the motor off.....to be honest...they blow trying to shift without the motor running. My suggestion is for you to get a clymers manual as they are indespensible when it comes to working on the bikes. The not wanting to shift issue could be a problem of either too much load on the clutch because it is worn too much or it could be a out-of-adjustment ecentric screw. let us know what you find....

well did you change the jetting in teh carbs to handle that extra air flow? or is it still the same as BEFORE you sent kevin your jugs?

you happen to have the carb slides in backwards? YES they will fit in backwards.....you want the cut out arch (ramp side) on the slide facing the air filters. and also looking at your pictures i notice that either your picture has an optical illusion or your top picture of your slides that are side by side.....looks like the top slide has one hell of a bent needle.

BAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA........

someone just loves double posts huh?

its not hard to load quads into truck at all.....whether its stuck in a gear or not..... *ride quad to back of truck and shut it down so theres about a foot of room from the tail gate to the front bumper of quad. *either put bike IN GEAR.....or leave it in gear if the things mis-shifting. *walk to front of quad and grab ahold of the front suspension arms......lift and apply backward force.....the trans will grab and allow you to push against it without it slipping out from under you... *continue lifting until the bike is straight up and down and resting on its rear grab bar. *walk to back of bike......put one foot through rear grab bar and squeeze clutch in and you can walk it forward til your tires are in the bed.....then lean bike forward. *RELEASE clutch and the trans will hold the quad from rolling out of the truck while you position to lift the back of the bike up by the grab bar. I had to learn the easy way of loading this stuff up when i started riding with my fiance.......120lb girl makes for a real treat when your having to load 2 quads and all your supplies...... if it wasn't for learning this way i would have cried....

Higher octane fuel, while it does burn slower, is actually needed to run higher compression motor because it is more stable. It helps stop detonation because it is actually harder to ignite with compression and heat......but it does burn at a slower rate. I believe that the pump fuel is usually good (depending on your setup) for up to about 155-160 psi......however there have been cases where people on here have been able to get away with pump fuel on JUST a little bit more compession...

dont forget about the pod filters and the aftermarket head that are on it. Since it sounds like you don't own it yet....or have paid for it yet......ask the seller what cc domes are in the head....and whether he runs race fuel with the current compression.

no problem 9090.....it was just the size of the pictures were making the post size so large. they were some good quality photos of your work though.

jason....that's because he didn't have any pictures in his signiture when he started this post. kept adding them as he went..... that being said......YES 9090......its getting very hard to deal with your massive pictures......could you please shrink them....

ive had my go pro mounted on the top of my helmet for the banshee and on the side of my helmet for my snowmobile...... that being said....on top of the helmet is the only way to go. It get DAMN annoying trying to watch the video footage and there is a big damn helmet in the way....you lose half your vision....plus it makes it alot harder to actually see ahead of you. With it mounted on top you can tilt the camera down JUST a little bit and you suddenly are able to see not only the trail but also the handle bars and your wrists. Also helps correct riding errors as you can see what your throttle control is like during certain trails/dunes. And twist camera up JUST a little bit and you can see the entire trail or whatever your riding down come flyin past. If i had the ability i would have put the camera on the top of my sled helmet.....problem is they're like motorcycle helmets.....the damn visor they have on them slides up....so i wouldn't be able to use the visor at all. and anyone who has ever ridden sleds knows you need to be able to gain access to the inside of your shield!

jeff has always been an awsome guy with phenominal customer service! Hell he even called me after his shop hours closed while he was with his friends to talk about what i was looking to get out of my bike before he started porting it. Now anyone that can willingly keep working while his friends are over without kicking them out is a stand up amazing guy.

9090....is your transmission all stock? alot of people have problems running big motors on stock transmissions. Most have a problem of finding a "false neutral" between 2nd and 3rd gear. There are sponsors on this site that can cut the "dogs" of your transmission off on CNC machines to allow it to catch easier. I believe the problem is making so much power that the "dogs" are just being forced past their normal grabbing position because of the speed/power of the motor.

th epistons you'll need are depicted by what length rod you get on the crank. you can get a 110 rod which is the stock length or you can get a 115 rod. the longer rod allows the rod to have less side angle and allows the piston to go up and down without as much side load onto the side of the cylinder. If your gonna run wiseco (which i and just about everyone here will suggest) you are going to need a 513 series piston for the 110 length rod and a 795 (i believe its a blaster piston) for the 115 length rod. you can order off the shelf domes from any site sponsor or you can have custom cut domes made for your bike by most of the sponsors. Your carbs will be fine as the stock sized carbs are usually good until about 70hp. Porting is not specifically for drag racing......there are various different ports that you can have done to your cylinders that will allow for the powerband to be modified for any specific area that you would want........best bet is to call a site sponsor such as Jeff at FAST racing and talk with him....just tell him what your looking for the bike to do and he will be able to tell you what kind of port job is perfect for you. Kevin at HJR is also said to be a great motor guy but i have only dealt with Jeff. only +7mm and larger cranks will need trenching.....but during assembly it only takes a second to look and spin the crank to check for any binding. just pay attention to see if the connecting rod just barely touches the case holes cut into the top of it....its rare that they do but it has happened.......so before you get the head on just spin the motor over by hand and pay attentino to any binding. and the best way to attain 70-80 hp while still being able to run pump gas to make those numbers is going to be to order a serval kit from our site sponsors. it is said to have lots of low end power and able to hit that high hp mark without the need to run race fuel or a mix to keep the detonating down...

My suggestion could be that it is the flywheel nut wasn't installed quite tight enough and it vibrated loose enough to allow the flywheel to back off the press fit and it sheared the key causing the timing to be off....

do you have a differnt set of domes for your aftermarket head (assuming you have one) to try? its gotta be something like a slight detonation that's putting a little back pressure "pop" on your reeds.