andrew3160

As for the tick. I noticed it as well, I get paranoid over that kind of stuff. But noticed it after I had my motor rebuilt by a shop. From what I have been told that is normal on the banshee assuming it is a faint tick.

I am running 91 octane on a 4 mill dune/play port from FAST racing with a NOSS head and 21 cc domes. No problems here.

What are you asking for the used billet basket. Might be interested.

What he means is you should be able to swap everything over but the wires coming from the stator will have a different plug on the end. Either swap everything or just switch the stator in both motors and you should be able to put the motor from the 2005 in the older bike using the older wireing haness. Just look at all the plugs on your harness.

I have ued Bel Ray in the past and it was a pain in the ass to find neutral in the cold which has always been a problem with the Banshee. I switched to ATF Type F and have been using it ever since. Had my cases apart a few months ago and everything looked good. I was told by the builder that ATF Type F works just fine but suggested I change it every couple of Dune trips. I am runing a 4mill and dont have much trouble with the clutch slipping or sticking. ATF is cheap and can be found just about anywhere if you ever need it which is always nice.

Tyler, How about this instead. http://www.briggsdodge.com/vehicle-details/1983-chevrolet-silverado-silverado30-topeka-ks-id-813709 Has a 12 valve cummins in it built from the ground up for 20K.

Sorry I edited my comment. If I remember correctly, I have taken the nets of my old graydons in the past with out cutting them. Same for my AC pro peg nerfs.

You should be able to remove nets with "OUT" cutting them.

Let me know because I am curious too. I am going to be running +2 +1 arms and I don’t really want to lift the quad much. I can get a set of YFZ shocks but not sure that is the route I want to go.

I will be there this year with a few from KC.

DAMNIT!!! I cant believe I just read this whole thing..................

Yep sold guys

I just had my motor done by Jeff at FAST. He does great work and will help you find the set up you need for your style of riding. He will tear the whole motor down and put it back together and pressure test for $250. I went from a stock motor to a 4 Mill with a play/dune port and cool head and trust me it has plenty of power for trails and the dunes. I am very satisfied with their work. He even helped me do a plug chop and dial it in, give him a call. Keep in mind Power and Money go hand in hand.

I bought a set of Drag/Hill shot J Arms for my banshee project and have decided to go another route for the front end. I believe they are -1 +2 but not real sure. These were built by Joey at Deviant Designs from what I was told when I bought them. They are powder coated black, come with Tie rods (with ball joints), Drag spindles, and lightened hubs that have been painted Red with a brand new wheel bearing kit in them! I currently have these on my quad, and rode twice on them. They are in good shape with normal wear and tear. The lower Heim Joints is the only thing need to be replaced due to a little bit of play, the upper’s are still in good condition. These are ready to bolt up and ride. $230 shipped OBO. Let me know. Here is a link to my build. You can see the J arms in the photo's. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=137500

Thats what I have around mine right now. It is looped around as much shit as I can in the garage. So if they wanted it, they would have to take everything with it.

Stone county MO, that’s down by Table Rock close to the Branson area. I have a lake house in stone county. I would be checking Branson and Kimberling city ads to see if it pops up. Good luck bud, I worry mine will get stolen. Almost thought about putting an anchor bolt in the concrete of my garage and locking it up.

Wow you got lucky!! Same thing happened to me at the dunes last year. Bike shut off and the kicker was locked solid. Had the same bits of dirt or debris on my clutch side spark plug. When I broke the motor down the bottom of the piston skirt has broken off into little pieces and seized up. Turns out the crank was bad after that along with the whole top end. I would look into it a little more, and jetting is everything. I would make sure you have the bike jetted right for your elevation since there is a difference in elevation from the guy you bought it from. It always runs the best right before it blows when it is lean. I would also be concerned if there was any sort of water in there that caused it to lock up. Who knows if something cracked from the expansion. If the idler gear was what was locking up, I would consider replacing the bushing. I have been told that if that gear gives out while you are riding it can cause you a huge headache in your clutch cover. I just re did my motor and Run ATF type F and Engine Ice for coolant. I would also be careful about riding when it is really cold out. That can lean a bike out itself not to mention running the bike in that cold of weather isn’t the best Idea to begin with. (Just my thought though since I am on a fresh motor) I would be curious to see what your plugs look like as well.

Must not be open, I have called about 10 times from when they opened and closed. I will try again tomorrow. Thanks!

My a arm and j arm on my banshee connect to the spindle with 7/16 fine thread studded heim joints, both ends 7/16 male. I can't find these any where? Any suggestions please.

Never mind, I tried the black and it looks like crap. Ended up painting them red.

I am thinking about keeping my red fronts, going to race cut rears and painting the rears Black. My frame is powder coated gloss black along with my swinger and j arms. Any pictures with red fronts and black rears would help.

After seeing this last night, I would consider paying for a set if the quality was good. I thought about making the mold my self, but it is your idea so dont want to steal it from you.

Decided to rebuild the banshee after it blew up at the dunes last season and I broke my leg. Still a work in progress, parts are coming in here and there and the motor should be done from FAST on the 15th of Dec. Sorry about the picture sizes, not sure if they will be too big. Started out like this when I got it. Here is the start of the tear down. Went with a plus 2 MX swing arm since I like playing at the track but still hit the trails here and there. Drag/hillshot front J arms Before the frame went to powder, we ground off the front bumper mounts and cut the top support and added two pieces of round tubing for somewhat of a front bumper look built into the frame. Couple pics of the new J arms mounted before powder. I went gloss black for powder on the frame. Cost $250 for prep/bake/powder All new seals in the rearend, painted calipers, bearing carrier, hubs,g force rear axle, streamline stainless brake line. At least now it is a roller. ( sorry some of the pics are not that good, i used my phone) I am still trying to decide what I want to do with the plastics. I am going to stick with red. I just set my old ones on there for an Idea of what it will look like. I will post more pics soon when the motor is in.

I just bought a set of used drag/hill shooter J arms off ebay that were -1 +2. Came with drag spindles, hubs, and tie rods for 289 shipped. I think there were a few others on tthere. I still have the drag spindles that have the front brake mounting points taken off to make the front end lighter. Let me know if you are interested in them I will let them go cheap.

I suppose I will do that then, I appreciate the advise.