andrew3160

I am from Olathe, KS so we arent that far off. Was thinking about bringing the Banshee home to ride around the KC area if there are any good places.

Minkia, when you are going through your bikes will you look and see if you have an un-trashed red 89 rear. Still in need of one and it would be much appreciated. I will keep an eye out for a more detailed color list. My buddy has about every 4 wheeler mag there is, I will see if he has that spread of the colors by year.

Radar, where do you live in KC?

No joke, that video is funny as hell and true. As for the colors go, I goto KSU and HATE KU (whose colors are Red and Blue) so I am not a big fan of the Red and Blue combination. But Red frame with White plastics would look good. Just my thought, I am sure you dont care about my reasoning for not liking Red and Blue.

I can see both ways working just as good. I have pods on mine and I ride from snow to mud to sand with no issues ever. Dont even see a speck of mud on the outerwares. Jeff at FAST sells K&N pods with outerwares for $85. Seems to be the best deal I have found. As for water ingestion with pods while pond skipping...... I just dont have any interest in doing that period. But I suppose the airbox might be a bit better for that sort of thing. One thing to remember though, I have been riding a lot of dirt this winter and have to gotot he car wash after each ride. You have to make sure you put a bad around the pods before washing your quad. I have done it with out the bag and the outerwares seem to work okay but would not suggest it. Thats the only thing I dont like about them.

Double post

I did star, shaft, and spring and can find neutral a lot easier and it shifts better than I can ever ask for. But that is just me, everyone likes it set up differently.

No its not bad, good product too. It could be like $11.95 I can remember. But still for how much I ride, thats not bad. Will I be okay going to 44:1?

Its like $9.50 here a quart. I think I am going to start running 44:1 with it. My buddy is running 44:1 in his 250r and has no problems.

Call Jeff at fast, just got amm my stuff to do mine from him and it shifts like a dream. Huge difference. Here is the link from when I did mine. Few of the guys on here really helped me out when doing mine. It is real easy. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=127372

I agree as well. I just wanted to make sure I am running the right ratio for my machine and havent seen many using AMSOIL Intercepter.

No problems with mine, the holes for the factory bolts should be larger to allow room for play.

Advanced timing, pods, and pro circuits and if I got a good launch there is a possibility I could take him. He has new rears too compared to my worn rzrs, doesn't help. We will see in the sand.

I want to say its $10 a quart, use it in my modded jetski and it has held up good.

dont know if you are talking to me or not, 89 banshee with few add ons. Be down to Little Sahara March 12-16th and again for Trike rampage in April.

I'v been running AMSOIL Intercepter 36:1. Sound reasonable?

That would be because I dont how to ride this thing yet, where to sit to keep the front end on the ground and the rear hooked up. But I am getting there, ha ha. Oh and maybe because I dont have a 4 mil in mine like your self.

I know this has been talked about a lot on here, but I wanted your guys' opinion on what to use and ratio. I run amsoil "Interceptor" in my two stroke jetski and it works great. I have ran a tank of it through my banshee and it seems to like it too. What are your thoughts on it and what ratio should I be mixing it at. Seems a lot of people run 40:1 around here. I have procircuits advanced timing, and k&n pods. Here is the link to the stuff I have been using: http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/ait.aspx

It was upside down, the flat side was on top which was causing it to hit the shift star and make it hit neutral in the higher gears. Ran a YFZ tonight just playing around and it is amazing how well it will keep up when you can actually shift and not miss gears.

So I pulled everything apart again. Turns out the arm that has the roller on it that sits on the shift star was backwards. The Shift shaft wasnt centered either. Got everything put back together and it shifts like a dream, amazing difference! Thanks again for all the help.

Thanks for all the help guys, now I know what I did wrong.

You are talking about the screw that uses a flat head screw driver that the opening in shift shaft arm goes around? Sorry noob here, really appreciate the help!

How do I adjust the shift shaft so that it is centered right? The only adjustment we made was the philips head screw that pushes on the ball bearing in the middle of the clutch basket. I held the clutch in a friend tightened it untill the the two arrows lined up on top of the clutch cases. Is this right? Anthing else that needs to be adjusted?

Need a little help. I did the shift shaft mod and the shift star mod with springs and all from Jeff at FAST. Got everything installed, made sure the clutch was in good condition. Torqued everything to spec's. It is a bit easier to find Neutral now which is nice. But I notice that when I was running it hard through all the gears, some where between 5th and 6th it hit a neutral or rapped out. I shifted up and it went into 6th. My clutch lever was not grabbing until I completely let it out. Wondering if it maybe had something to do with my clutch not fully engaging. Seemed to run okay after that until my shift lever fell off which seemed to be a bit loose. What do you guys think, Possibility it was a combination of loose shift lever and clutch adjustment? Is it possible that I wasnt able to shift into the gear because the clutch was not adjusted right?

Highway clean up SUCKS!