andrew3160

That was the first time I did that cover, I re stripped it again because I felt it could look better.

Yeah, couldn't really turn it down. I want to powder the motor next but with it being a fresh rebuild with one season, I think I will wait. We just did a whole motor in silver chrome powder and it turned out amazing. I would like to do mine in the same flat black and gloss but it looks pretty clean with bare cyl and cases. It's real easy to get carried away with powder coating when you have everything at home to do it. Here is the motor we did: Here is my clutch cover to show the difference in the two blacks I used on my bike:

I sanded the hell out of them. Then just used krylon plastic paint in a spray can. Turned out amazing. I will have to let you know how it holds up. My rears have been painted with it for a while and haven't had any issues. Since it doesn't have a hardner in it, you cannot get gas on it or it will eat the paint.

My shee has been a work in progress for about a year now since I broke my leg last August. Here is what it started as when I bought it, I rode it like this for a season until I blew the motor. When I blew the motor, I broke my leg shortly after and decided to rebuild it and renew the life of the bike over last winter. I never really liked the front bumpers on the banshee so we custom fabricated a different look on the frame. We cut out the top cross member and welded in two pieces of round tubing to keep it uniform. I added +2+1 J Arms from Stellar, +4 swinger, and powdered everything gloss black. Went with red accents. I ended up continuing to make changes this past summer as we started powder coating at home. This is the finished product less the seat. I need to get with Vegasjeff here soon. Additional items I powdered my self include: Grab bar gloss black Rear brake light mount flat black. Exhaust: high temp flat black pipes, flat black silencer tubes, and gloss black silencers. Clutch cover: gloss black with flat black insert and water pump cover. Gloss black kicker assembly. Flat black rear brake lever. Gloss black shifter. Flat black nerfs. Glass black thumb throttle assembly and master cyl. To top it all off, had to get rid of the graphics of course and repaint the plastics. Still needs washed but you get the idea. I will have more pics when I get the seat done.

Might have a buddy looking to get rid of his cool head. I will talk to him for you.

Just answered my question. For anyone that may want to know, standard powder tends to break down and bake off at about 500 degrees. High temp powder would be required for two stroke exhaust which would accommodate up to 1200 degrees. Another tip I learned about ordering powder in the summer. Never buy on a Thursday or a Friday. The time that your order sits in the truck over the weekend in the heat will cause the powder to bake together. Big suck when it arrives and you can only use half of what you ordered after sifting.

Has anyone used standard powder on exhaust pipes? I have a matte black that I have used on several other parts that I would like to spray my pipes with. I have done one pipe in high temp flat black and it really isn't close in flatness. Wasn't sure if normal powder would hold up or not. The high temp powder is rated to 1200 deg and I am pretty sure my pipes don't come close to that. Any help is much appreciated.

I have a set of graydons with blue nets. They mount to the stock pegs and utilize the factory heal guards. Would even be willing to powder coat them for you. I have flat black, red, or a silver chrome powder I could do them in. Shoot me an offer if interested, I will let em go cheap.

Glad others are doing this too. We went and bought a sand blasting cab from tractor supply for $100. (Works great for stripping paint in a hurry) We use the harbor freight gun and it works just fine with good quality powder. Key is good prep, I will sandblast the metal, wipe it down with reducer, bake it for 10 min, then re wipe after letting it cool. Everythingthing we have done has turned out great and is a lot easier than painting. Sure makes it easier to add some bling to your bike.

I need a clutch cover. Don't care about condition of paint as long as there aren't any bad gouges in the metal. How much shipped to 66062. Thanks

Maybe... We will see. Already put the bike away for the summer, but might be down for one more ride.

Pm sent.

Got a set of douglas 10's with one ride on them I would sell if you are interested. Be down in waynoka this weekend could bring them then. They take the 89 hub though.

No problems or complaints here with the VF3's.

We are just messing around with you bro. Glad you got your issue figured out. Post up pics of your bike.

Is your motor already built? If so, I am curious as to why you have not broke it in yet and why we are still on this topic. As stated above and with all the advice you have, I would hope you have a decent idea on what to do. Run 32:1 while breaking in. On first idle, blip the throttle every few seconds or so for about 4 or 5 min or until it is warm. Ride it making sure it isn't hitting the top of power band varying the rpms. When you are done, re-torque everything and be easy on it for about 2 tanks (3 if your worried like me when I did mine) before ripping on the strip. I have about 45 gallons through mine now and still no issues. Make sure to do a plug chop after break in to get it dialed in.

Thank you for clearing this up, my eyes kept going cross eyed reading this thread. Glad I'm not the only one with a headache.

You don't need da (the) rev limiter.

If you are resleaving I have a set of stock cyl with a mild trail port I would let go for 50 shipped.

Re torque the head. Odds are it's just because the motor is cold.

No drag strip? No body to play with? Anyone else going this weekend by chance?

What a great deal!

I second coupelx. Just port and take care of the issue in a hurry.

Had the same issue. Cleaned the carb, adjusted float, put back on and still happened. Shook the carb a bit on the bike, haven't had a problem since. Sometimes they just stick.

I had the same problem. Replaced the clutch and pushrod and ball. All fixed. Sometimes the clutch actuator that your cable goes into going into the cases can get worn out as well, so it would be a good time to check that. Some say to push the actuator arrow to the stater side of the arrow on your case when fully disengaged as well.