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Larry's Shee

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Everything posted by Larry's Shee

  1. You saying the bike quit from no gas and then you bought more?
  2. Did you ever have clamps on the boost bottle before the test? If it lost a pound per minute did you find the leak?
  3. I call BS on him. No matter what if I got something shipped to me I'd probably keep it. Plus you'd think IF you had a perfect ebay you would stay on top of a transaction just to make sure it went smooth.
  4. I'd go to service manager then general if need be. Point out fact you spent $14+ on your busa and that if you only turn one customer from them it more than costs them a set of rims.
  5. Probably 1/4, about 3" long. Don't need to take carbs off to put it on.
  6. Choke crossover tube is directly oppisite of the choke knob on other side of carb and goes straight across to other carb. Check that you have float bowls on correct carb. The bowl with a little "BB" goes on the left (choke) carb. Next check that you have slides in correct carb. They will fit in the "wrong" carb. The cutaway (angled slice, side) faces the air cleaner. Did you check float height? Put all the jets in, main jet washer and slosh baffle? Did you set air screw? Sure that needles dropped down into tube?
  7. YOU are the custom harness builder, ain't rocket sceince ya kno
  8. http://www.vitosperformance.com/atv_parts/product.php?productid=479&cat=200&page=1 Here's is the head plate you were asking about in shout last night. It's like having stroker domes on stock head. Several different ways to go about building a stroker. If you go long rod (115mm) you will need new pistons. If you use standard rod (110mm) you can use your current pistons. What are your plans for it? Other mods, etc?
  9. What carbs? What jets now? Other settings? What temps? What changed that it's now rich?
  10. http://www.mediafire.com/?oiz8lyqrw27rxlo Don't get me started down this road,
  11. Do the carbs one at a time as they are different, but the parts will fit on either. Also be sure to attach choke crossover tube
  12. Why would he want to do that? Notice adjustments on lower arms.
  13. Best and cheapest don't go in same sentence. Least wise on 4mil IIRC, Herr jugs had best price, and M&M assembles and welds the cranks themselves
  14. Don't know if you can find it, but I did see an example of someone on here that cut the old bung out and welded a new one in. Good luck on search Here: http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=79559&st=0&p=683588&hl=bung&fromsearch=1entry683588
  15. Try running the correct plug, br8es
  16. Have you tried hitting up the stealership for a new key? Very lucky you got it back
  17. If the axle is stuck, double nut the end , not with castle nuts, grab the carrier and slam axle against block of wood, or maybe whack it with hammer, or rig up a puller. Worse case take it to an auto parts/machine shop and have it pressed out. I have a blaster axle that I couldn't get sprocket hub off with a puller and heating it cherry red.
  18. And in this age of entitlement you'll also notice I gave a brief explination how to do it
  19. Another example of why we use manuals. Remove lock nuts, left wheel hub, sprocket hub. If it doesnt slide out after that, good luck. Get creative 'cause sleeve is rusted to axle.
  20. Lid/no lid, stock carbs, what jets are in it, all carb settings, timing?
  21. The screw on the tors "brick" only raises or lowers the slide, does not affect fuel/air mixture.
  22. Might this be a Brittish description of what us Yanks call rising rate ??
  23. Just about anything but regular motor oil. Has to be for wet clutches, no friction modifiers.
  24. Won't run for shit without choke crossover tube. 3" (80-85mm) hose from one carb to other oppisite of choke knob. http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/easy-almost-free-way-stop-leaky-carbs-33335/ don't laugh, it works
  25. First thing you need is a Clymers manual. Concentrate on maintenance for now. How's your chain/sprockets, suspension pivots, brakes? http://motors.shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=banshee+GRAPHICS&_sacat=43962&_dmpt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&_odkw=banshee&_osacat=43962&bkBtn=&_trksid=p4506.m270.l1313 some are economical. I wouldn't cut the fenders off, if you ride mud they help keep you and quad cleaner. There actually some that want them, maybe sell/ trade them. Or by some cut and have both. Clean it real good, Do a little detailing, paint wheel and sprocket/brake hubs a contrast/complimenting color. Get a cheap set of pipes and BBQ paint, biggest bang for the buck. X-2 on timing mod, $20 for flywheel puller and small rat tail file. ONLY use proper puller for flywheel !!!!! Better air filter and remove box lid. BE SURE TO REJET for ANY mods that increase air flow in or out of motor. Be safe and enjoy
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