Larry's Shee

I'll bet your carbs are to big. Without enough "motor" to use those carbs you won't have high enough velocity to jet properly coupled with pipes that want more ex timing/area. Do you by chance have a set of stock carbs to put on it?

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=bike+bandit or this http://lmgtfy.com/?q=yamaha+banshee+stock+parts

http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=99361 Look through this thread and see if you can find a simular set-up. What set-up do you have now?? 350 mains and 30 pilots seems way off, have you done a leak-down test? Always start rich and work down.

Welcome to BHQ !! What is your elevation and jetting now? What do your plugs look like or plug chop? Will there also be a large temp change?

You aren't coming across as a brain surgeon yourself . Clean carbs one at a time as parts are different. Make sure pilots are pussy clean. When you have them apart write down your jet sizes and clip posistion. Set float height. What do plugs look like? Have you tried adjusting air screw or slides?

Re-champhered ?? What the fuck you talking about?? Doesn't look like it was touched at all. I'll bet the transfers look the same.

Did you jet for the pipes??

Hey, you can thank me for digging this from the grave. Or if you're real Scweeeeet you can curse me Two things that haven't improved a whole bunch since the Model T: Sparkplugs and coils. JMHO, your results may, and will vary. Looks like I called it right in post #8

Pay for gas and I'll come over. O wait, I'm 2500 miles from Cali Seriously if you take it to the stealership you will meet their head mechanic, Ben Dover. Buy a Clymers, Genuine Yammy service manual, or down load one. There probably isn't an easier engine to take apart. Only special tool needed is a Banshee flywheel puller (not 2 or 3 jaw) and 32mm socket for clutch nut. Above all, Don't Be Scared

Is it white, smelly out right side?= bad crank seal. If not it could be either type of oil, ratio or just carb tuning.

Your work is looking very good so far. Never seen any jugs with the two holes in the sleeve there. Is this your idea or is it "borrowed"? Unfortunately I would have to see some dyno numbers to show it's usefulness. Only suggestion I have is the sleeve should be beveled at the bottom at the transfer tunnels.

Are the jugs "stock" as your title says or are they ported stock jugs?

What brand are they?

Is smoke equal out both sides?

If you can move it enough to hear piston slap imajine what it's like running. If I heard right it's 64mm bore. Have your jugs micked and figure out what size to bore, or just send them off to Jeff.

So the only thing you recently changed was porting and fresh bore? Has it gotten a lot colder since last time you ran it? What mains are in it now?

Well, where the fuck are you? Four weeks after the new year, couple days for we-be day, what's your excuse now???? Guess you didn't understand my internet humor on my last post, too bad-so sad Have you even fired this pig up to feel the arm ripping powwaah of 25 extra horses? Do you even have enough hair on your balls to even come back and say they're junk?? Maybe you payed to be a dealer and realized YOU GOT FUCKED?? JMHO, your results may, and will vary.

That could be due to pilot jets. 25 is stock, most use 27.5 with most pipes. Running nice in shed has nothing to do withWOT with a load on it. My son's is unported 4mil, head spacer, FMF Golds, no lid 310s@70*f, that would make it min 330 if I ran today. Mikuni pocket calculator: one size larger for every 20*f drop in temp. Do what you feel best, plugs are still cheaper than pistons, it's possible to melt a piston before you go far enough to do a plug chop or even check it. JMHO, your results may, and will vary.

Seeing that you've changed setup, with current temps I'd start at 330, 320 min and go from there. Better to trash a few plugs for plug chops or foul a few out, still cheaper than pistons. You'll see a W T F difference with pipes.

Those wally lights are 50w each, go to the lighting dept and get the 20w bulbs.

By chance does anyone know if they are available for long rod also or just short rod?

Be sure to drill the correct side of carb. Take your time with the tap5/8 turn in, 3/8 turn out, repeat. Those bodies are soft.

More precise would be with a caliper with the depth stick, same method. Didn't say how precise you needed

http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=105318 Not much over stock, think it was more to replace ball joints

Doesnt run, ONLY needs carbs cleaned.