Larry's Shee

yes Any time you change air flow in or out (sounds like sex, in, out, repeat if neccessary)

Modded shift shaft will help. Maybe easy shift too

I wouldn't think that if you grabbed it by the star it would be very easy as you have no mechanical advantage as you do with a shift "lever".

I believe you would have to do a DC conversion to run the fan if needed.

Holy Hogg Fucker

OK, makes little more sense, I'll keep an eye out for pics of it installed

Is that rectangle piece your radiator?

TORS "brain" box is on left frame tube by gas tank, un plug it, you can clean up wireing later. Should be two grounds in wireing, one by engine somewhere other by volt reg back under seat. Also make sure coil has clean, bare metal contact. Make sure pick-up tits on flywheel are clean, gap pick-up coil to .018-.020. On my son's I also cleaned the poles on the stator of all rust to eliminate a one sided miss. Use ONLY a Banshee flywheel puller, no 2-3 jaws=fucked flywheel. Either buy a Clymers or find the download manual somewhere around here. While you're working on it ohm plug caps and also trim 1/4" off plug wires for fresh contact, add a dab of dielectric grease also. BTW, where you at? I'm between Pontiac and Flint.

Ride 'em and rock 'em, only way to tell. Or sell them to me and I'll worry about it.

OK, seriously now . Just about any oil as long as it doesn't have friction modifiyers for the trans, any recomended for wet clutches. IIRC synthetic 2s mix is not recomended for break-in period.

I prefer Extra Virgin in trans. Bottom end is the crankshaft area, which is sealed and is seperate from transmission/clutch area. Could be considered same as they are both contained within same shared set of case halves.

Gotta figure there's a reason it got hot enough to melt the impellor to start with

J arms and A arms are same price from Stellar (IIRC) so even if you wanted to go A arm unless you bought used it's still same money. He'll make what ever size you want. Works of art to be sure. Put bronze bushings in pivots a be good for a LONG time. Plus J arm frames are lighter=faster

Pics or it didn't happen On another note what do you think really happened? Is the clip still holding the kick start idle gear?

Sorry badlarry but you're too proud to admit you either had an air leak or plugged main jet. If it was black majic from the pistons wouldn't they both have melted? If these were available for long rods I'd probably use them rebuilding my son's.

Plus get rectifier/regulator and battery

Maybe I'm retarded, but don't think it costs 12G to build 7mil, even if you bought a new Banshee to put it in.

Might have knocked some junk loose handleing them. Clean them out.

What brand piston?

A sharp fucker looks to see that the cutaway is facing the air cleaner in case carbs are old as dirt and you cant see through the window. X-2 on jetting, start fat, work down. Slide idle stops need to be able to contact slide, might have to take more off carb body.

Probably by brand new in Quatar WTF would it cost to ship that far??

Not needed, won't ever miss them

Kicker idler came off shaft. Pics of carnage required

Only diff is newer use two long bolts instead of four short ones. Quite an improvement O yeah, hex nuts instead of spanner nuts

http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=151439 Check it out, brand new design