Overboost

the stock plate has been notched. it makes the top turn twards the front of the engine. my billit plate I put in it to replace it goes the opposite way and is marked 0-+5-+10 it has never really had much bottom end before 3G's but around 4-6 just came to life and ran perfect. kinda chugged anything below 3500R's I thought they may have done it to gain some top end. it will top out around 77MPH with 14/41 gearing and revs up around 12K no problems I have it set to +5 now because I have 20CC domes and run a mix of 50/50 race gas so I went for the extra degree. I wont know how it runs all out until this weekend but I know I could NEVER launch it in second gear, just bogged and you had to let off and hit it again to get it to roll over 2MPH, then it ran fine, no second gear launches for me, until now maybe....

there is a small spring clip inside the choke plunger. it gets worn and will not hold the shaft out. you can fix it by puttin in a larger O-ring, buying a new choke plunger or as stated, just hold it out, start it and then moderate the throttle.

ok, I hear everyone talk about advance your timing 4 degrees. what is the downside of retarding it 5 degrees??? reason I am asking.... my bike runs excellent, I beat 90% of all other bikes I race. I race many banshees with my same mods, and stomp em pretty good. I went to put on my timing plate today and seen my stocker was notched. but upon further inspection, it is set at 5 degrees retard? WTF? it runs great, tops at around 77MPH, pulls hard up the hills, rips like a bitch in the trails and yet it is 5 degrees retard? did they mess up and go the wrong way? want more top speed? I know it sounds way more aggressive than the other banshees I see out there but I am much faster than most. what is the down side of this? will I pick up by setting +4 or should I leave it the way it is?

the nology coil and wire setup is $150 brand new on the FAST website. I will give you $90 shipped

first, you dont need new, put in some good used ones and see if that solves your prob. if so then replace them with some that you want to keep you dont need the tors removal kit to get rid of it, that just the nice looking way to do it. you can just cut the wires at the carbs and pull out the module, thats all I did and worked perfect, I put in the removal kit later get rid of the broke shit and put in good stuff, start there, dont try and diagnose a problem with stuff you know to be bad in there. eliminate the obvious.

you can get them at Donvans party store on the corner of Weshire and Gnome its owned by some Iranians who speak poor english. guess there is more in common than we thought.

its not that its too old and ragged on, mine is an 87 and I just got done thoroughly kicking the shit out of it yesterday. and kicking the shit out of a few craptors, 450R's and a few other no bodys including some three wheeler that thought he had it going on. I laid some smack down on his candy ass

YEA,,,,I guess you could honestly say, it was running on one cylinder.

my kicker broke the retainer right off the inner shaft and just hangs there behind the clutch. all I have is a rattling kicker. no issues with it being that loose. when I had the clutch out, there was no wear, scratching or anything on the gear or clutch, just a snapped retainer and washer which I fished out of the clutch cover. if it goes out one day, gives me an excuse to upgrade..........4MIL...MUWHAHAHAHA (evil mad scientist laugh)

I have been on this site less than 6 months, and seen this thing posted about as many times as ebay lists something as "RARE" I dont know why I clicked on it, I dont know why I responded to it...

where is everyone going to be? wheres good to ride? my friend wants to go to bull gap, I want st helen, the indy trip is too far for me, and silver lake is boring after an hour of riding. what else is going on?

cool, I just wasn't sure if I could use sled carbs or dirt bike/zilla carbs guess this will be my next adventure.

will TM flatslide carbs from a snowmobile work on a banshee? I have some spares for my arctic cats and they look like they will bolt up. any one try these? waste of time? or just too big for the banshee. I belive them to be 32mm carbs.

F.A.S.T. racing head with some 18-20 CC domes depending on your setup you are going with. current setup you can get away with some 20's, but they are easy to change once you go 4 mill, head is off anyways, change it then.

way to high on the mains. I run 320 and have pod filters, same pipes start with 280 and see how it runs. that is ofcourse your elevation is around 1200' you must adjust the jetting from a known base to match your elevation. it is not spot on, but will get you in the ball park. there are many other factors but should get you close.

agreed, get a chariot performance unit, nice billet plate is about the same cost as rick stator cast garbage.

change the head gasket, leaks but then seals after it swells from the heat.

RTV black silicone is what they use to seal most rear end cases and transmissions in cars. impervious to oil, not so much gas after a while but will work interim. of course, it is not correct to fix a crank seal with, and will leak regardless, carb boots may be fine until you find some new ones, but the seals, they are going to leak probably very soon.

I have 25 in mine and dont have any noticeable problems to speak of from jetting. I tried 27.5 on it once and it bogged really bad, been good so far with the 25. every engine is different.

sell it, buy a banshee problem solved and more fun seriously, I have never heard of fuel comming out the exhaust like that. it wouldhave to fill the cylinders, then come out the pipes, you would lose over a gallon of gas there, and have some major problems. I have had fuel injectors spray constang that filled a cylinder but never a carb of any sort. this should be interesting.

guess while I have it apart (again, I jut put a new clutch and basket in there 4 weeks ago) I will change the WP seal, bearing and the little o ring. edit: just called and ordered some parts from jeff at fast, so I can go riding this weekend, the stealership said 4 day wait, and they are a yammy dealer and still dont have stuff in stock. losers.

I changed my clutch a while back, put in a nice new gasket and everything, but now apparently, I have a coolant leak into my trans oil, nice and grey. I am going to assume it is the water pump transfer tube that goes from the clutch cover to the engine. my question is, what is the best way to get it to stop leaking? just pull it an replace the o ring? I dont want to run it too long this way, I dont feel like putting a new trans together for it.

no, the DS gets beat on every variable terrain we go on, sand, hills, sand hills, trails. and my favorite, nice packed dirt road straight, he gets beat every time. I seen him race many a banshee, most with T5 pipes and watch him beat every one. granted he never raced a cub or a stroker, but he can beat most with many/all bolt ons. he just cant beat mine, for some odd unknown reason. but snop hit it though, these pipes are determined by the terrain and mods you have, not by brand. I just so happen to like my PC and have good luck with them on all terrains I ride on.

I am at around 1200' and I run 320 with similar mods

pro circuits, I have beat many a bike with toomy on them, I kill them out of the hole and they never catch me. I am talking 5-7 bike lenghs, they were set up idetical to me, except pipes. my friend with his DS 650 can beat them also, but he cant beat me, and it is killing him, he just put in a big bore kit and high compression piston, I will just advance my timing to keep up, then he is going to a 720 kit, and I will then port my jugs. it is a never ending battle out there....