Overboost

I will take the pingle let me know where to send payment...

DING DING DING... no reply....musta hit that one the head.

to me, lock up means STOPS, aint working worth a squat. I got the click part, and works "OK" but locks up? and how about "OK" does it work, or dont it? for gods sake speak english

I was kinda wondering the same thing....

I uas amsoil dominator and after 900 miles of riding, pulled the head to swap a gasket and the pistons are cleaner than they were a year ago. all the carbon gunk is gone and the domes looked perfect, no residue, no build up, just a nice clean piston with an even black coat on it. dont get much better than that in my opinion.

it is not low on oil in the trans so I am going to guess a no on that, the smoke is more white than anything. pulled the head and the left dome is washed out, the right has nice carbon on the dome and the left is shiney clean, piston was wet, plug was wet. dont smell like oil or gas, just smells wet, I run dexcool for coolant so that is probly the problem and why it dont smell like antifreeze. I am replacing the O-rings and putting in some engine ice, hope this solves the problem.

exhaust pipe is wet at the exit.... changed carbs, still does it. could I have sucked a head gasket? I have a NOSS O-ring head on there, maybe it blew a ring out and is sucking in coolant because the smoke is not black smoke its kinda white like coolant, I just ASS-umed it was overly rich with oil.

carb is getting changed now. I tore it apart and didnt see anything, but that dont mean something is not lodged in where you cant see it, the main jet port and needle is clear, so I am just going to replace the entire thing and see what happens.

I tried each one individual. starting with swapping in new plugs. that was my first thought is it sucked a plug, then I went to the coil, then carb, reed. still ran the same, so I brought it home and tested compression being that was my next thought was I smoked a cylinder. it sucked being I only got to ride it 2 good miles yesterday. at least I stomped the DS first thing when we got them unloaded. I have the stator cover and flywheel off now, think I am going to try swapping the stator. will the flywheel mags go bad? being that it is keyed, that cylinder will fire off the same mag all the time so if that is crap, seems to reason that it would not fire on that one cylinder reguardless of coil wire position and swapping sides wont change that. just an idea before I change flywheels.

any other thoughts?

you did put the plug on the engine for ground when you tested spark? just a thought. I have a neat little gizmo that goes between the wire and plug, has a light bulb so you can see the spark while it is running, kinda slick. if no spark, I would start with the coil, fast and easy change.

I usually carry enough plugs to stock an auto zone store... I put in 3 different plugs into that cylinder and it still did the same thing....that is why I am so puzzled. each one comes back out slightly wet, not "fouled" it fires and the pipe gets hot but the harder you ride it, the colder the pipe gets. if you let it idle, they stay about even, when you give it hell, it cools down...like spark not firing

ok, looking for ideas as to WTF happened today... first the problem: bike ran excellent, took it out, warmed it up as usual, raced my friends DS 650 (as usual) stomped his ass (as usual) went for a trail ride, within 2 miles, bike started to run like shit, ran but wouldnt go over 40 or so, got out 6 miles, came back in, did some checking and this is what I found.... the cylinder on the left side runs but not as it should, pipe is warm and the right side is so hot you cant touch the pipe, you can lay your hand on the left and it is only just above warm., it blows lots of smoke out the right side when you get on it hard, idles just fine.. this is what I did... pulled the plugs and changed them, swapped plug wires, changed coil pack, took apart carb, set float, cleaned filter, pulled reed, exhaust pipe, compression check (147PSI) removed flywheel checked stator. all had either no effect or did not appear to be anything wrong with these things. what chaps my ass is, it ran fine then shit all of a sudden on one side only...idles fine but wont pull up top or rev over 7500 or so..... WTF,....,^*&*(&^&%%$$%$&^*(^$ any ideas?

my snowmobiles are 2 stroke, and 1000 CC in the summer when you start them, let em run and let them run a few minutes, they also drip oil/gas out of the pipe the more you run them, the more they drip, BUT, they are jetted for 0 degrees or so, so they are RICH when its 70 out, so I would say it is a rich condition

thing looks almost identical to mine....

nothing special, just pull the wires off and swap them on the plug tops, thats it, if the problem switches sides, you have your culprit, or at least a place to start looking

a wideband goes no farther than 24 inches from the exhaust port of the head. the closer the better. the problem is, it will get comtaminated with oil, within minutes and be rendered useless in a very short period of time. and they are not cheap to replace, around $80 a pop. I had one on my grand national, it worked great, but it is not a 2 stroke. so no, it is not practical to use one on a banshee.

I only have two words to describe that... FUCKING AWSOME. if he dicked up 2 bikes in a day 2 hours apart, dont let him ride your bike thats for sure.

being that you had the carbs apart, make sure they are synced up properly swap the plug wires to see if the problem switches to the other side, if so, its the coil or wires make sure the stator wires are not ate through anywhere, that will cause a miss on one cylinder.

HUH....when I went from 110 fuel to 93, my friend with the DS650 was able to pull on me by almost 2 full bikes I put in race gas, and we are dead even....have yet to race him with my new timing...my previous timing was -5...dont ask why...I just tore it apart and thats where it was...

WTF are you talking about dude? oil injection does not "inject" after the carb, it mixes it before it enters the carbs in mid line of fuel then the carbs pull it in and does its normal business. if you pull it, you just have to mix your gas youself is all. I pulled them off blasters and mixed oil after that with no affects at all. you dont need to do anything, just pull the injection shit and do it the right way.

why bother, the key is useless anyways. if someone is going to steal it, just unplug the key in the front, put a jumper wire in there and ride it, no key needed takes about 2 min or less to do. my key switch died, and I did that and rode it for a year like that, just put a new switch in, because it makes me feel better knowing it is now theft proof...HAHA.....

I run 20CC domes and just added +4 timing and its a blast. but I run 50/50 mix of 110 race fuel

well, I just now kinda stumbled into this thread. WHY THE FUCK DIDNT YOU GUYS COME ASK ME ABOUT THIS SHIT??? most everyone on here knows I have a friend with a DS 650 that we race almost every weekend. my mods are in my sig and he has as of this posting pro circuit pipe, protech spark box, modded air box, modded snorkel tube, jetted, mikuni flatslide 40MM carb (modded) 20 inch tires and high compression piston. we are dead even in a race, over and over again, moving, dead stop, any speed start, we top out 2MPH apart with me being the faster there. stock for stock, we raced them then also, he got me out of the hole by 2 bikes and held it there, then out topped me in the big end. I can get some videos of this the next time we go out, I have some on here somewhere of us racing up the sand hill, I can take him there that was before his carb mods.

PM sent, I will take it if it is still available.