Overboost

went to remove my flywheel, it looks kinda corroded but I want to install my timing plate.... installed the puller (yes, correct one, not 3 jaw) and as soon as I turned it, threads came off my puller and flywheel..WTF? now, even if I get a new puller, the wheel is dicked up so I cant take it off correctly. I am going to get a new flywheel, but how do I get the old one off? 3 jaw since its fubar anyways? and is RMStator a good brand? these are the best prices I Found on a new flywheel.

if he still has those, you should snag them,I am looking for a nice set to go on my bike, I want just plain stock look or the spark arresting type. either will suffice but must be stock appearing (pro circuit stock, not yamaha stock)

if that dont work out, let me know, give me $8 for shipping and you can have mine, or pick it up if your in mich for free

have a set of VF3 will sell shipped $150 I also have a cool head, not sure if I wanna sell it or not, I may put it on new bike, if I do sell, its like new, shipped $150

I have a complete stock engine that needs a rebuild, will sell for the cost of the jugs only since thats what is in demand on these things it ran fine until I took off my hi po stuff, but I have all stock to replace it all with, smoked out of left side, coolant... $250 if you pick it up

would like to buy a nice set of silencers only, if the price is right I may take the chambers but ATM I only need some silencers as mine are mismatched on the new bike.

love that avatar dude,them jugs are fake, but still sweet looking none the less, I would rather be sitting on them jugs than the ones under my bike any day...... ok, you can have your thread back now.....

you dont adjust the tors, you either remove it or deal with it. take off your seat, cut the wires going into the carb tops, splice the 2 wires from each wire into THEMSELVES not the other wire, so each carb still have its own wire, just not connecting to the carb, it has to have a closed circuit, thats it, shrink wrap them up and tors is BYE BYE my tors was acting up on my new bike, wont pull itself, wont rev up, stalling....I did this to bypass, runs like a top...

what is a front cab?

I think hes talking about metal shavings in the oil.... I had that....I just drove it, for years, never a problem out of it. finally died when the rings went bad

sell mine $40 shipped, not that great of shape, cover is good, but sagged a bit, foam repaired but at 10feet, you cant tell.... sent pic if interested

I also have a tank with no issues if any one needs it....$30 shipped with petcock

the clutch side cover is always a pain to get off, it likes to stick around the water pump and kick starter. like the others said, if you cannot get it into gear and rock it to get the thing to move even a bit, start posting it for parts, cuz the motor will be a goner. 32:1 mix is safe, on a quality oil, you can get away with 40:1 no problem. I have ran that for years with no issues. are you sure you used 2 stroke oil and not regular motor oil? heard that happening, not good

lastly then, what should my jets be with kiehins? with my current setup, I guess I can dump the VF3's I put them in because they were better than stock. I will post them up in the for sale section, I am going to keep my pro circuits, the have done me well in the past. the only thing that is changing on my bike now is, well, the bike, I have upgraded to an 02, but am moving everything over to the new one, except the carbs, they are going to be upgraded to the kiehins

lights are sold pending payment and inspection.... make an offer, this is an entire, untouched bike... just now taking it apart, everything is avalible excpet pipes, clutch, reeds, head and tires/wheels everything else is there. durablue axle, swing arm, J-arm setup, frame, engine, you name it, it is complete as I type, dont know about tomorrow, selling things local so it is not lasting long. make offer, let me know what you want, everything is negotiable. PM or email, [email protected]

perfect, I was not sure of the differance, as long as 33's will work with a mainly stock engine, I may just go that route, just for room to grow later in life.

the stator has a wire that was repaired (by me) because the flywheel had rubbed a hole in the coating, still works fine..I can dig up a stator plate...only have a stocker avalible, the adj, is going on the new bike... $75 + ride for the setup (basicly for just the flywheel price)

I am going to more than likely keep the setup I have now, if I do a 4MM it wont be for a while. I love my pro circuits, CPI is a thought for the future but ATM, the pros are perfect for what I am doing. so, 28 or 30MM? and what is the difference between the screw top kei's and the plate top? I seen both styles but more of the screw top (resemble stock style tops)

well, I have purchased a newer bike and will be parting out my 87 since I cannot figure out whats wrong with the engine...heres a PARTIAL list being I know more will come up once I start taking it apart. roller chassis- $400 unported jugs- $250 pair lower engine, has chain whack-$300 stock clutch unit-$100 stock carbs-$120 stock reeds-$30 white or black plastics-$100 each, pickup only gas tank a valve-$30 engine runs absolutely perfect, just smokes from left side bad around 6500 R's and looses power, cant figure it out, idles and drives around excellent, just dont get on it hard (yea right) prices dont include the ride, pickup is free ofcourse. will post a couple pix of the bike and some parts as they come off, will start taking it apart in the next day or 2 lower engine will be everything except the clutch, flywheel, stator and clutch cover, runs, but smokes, no holes in pistons and drove it as is for over a year, until the above mentioned problem last fall offers accepted as long as fair...jugs and roller are firm

I am thinking about doing some keihin 28MM on my bike, but not sure what is a good carb outside of lectron, I dont what the cost of them and the finicky tuning issues. I have stocks now, but want to take a step up with some carbs but not go crazy. let me hear some recommendations guys.....

thats kinda what I thought, all PM replied. if I end up parting, I will list it on here first, then flea-bay also, it dont have A arms, it is a J arm bike, its an 87

looking to buy in the michigan area an engine for my banshee. I am not looking to spend $800 on a stock engine, I paid that for the whole bike and rode the shit out of it. I would like a 4mil but a good running stocker out of Y2K and up is fine. if I cant find the engine for a reasonble price, I am just going to buy an entire bike and part mine out. I can get a whole bike for what most people are wanting for just a stock engine. let me know what you have

looking to buy in the michigan area an engine for my banshee. I am not looking to spend $800 on a stock engine, I paid that for the whole bike and rode the shit out of it. I would like a 4mil but a good running stocker out of Y2K and up is fine. if I cant find the engine for a reasonble price, I am just going to buy an entire bike and part mine out. I can get a whole bike for what most people are wanting for just a stock engine. let me know what you have

well, it is not sounding good, guess I better get ready to part it out. 2003 banshee here I come

ok, heres the problem.. engine idles great, runs fine, but when you ride it, get on it hard, it falls on its face around 7K and ROLLS smoke out of the left pipe left pipe runs cold when ridden hard. both are even heat when idling. here is what did... I changed reeds, carbs and head gaskets. swapped the coil, changed plugs and nothing has changed on the situation. here is what I found. there is a light brown, milky residue on the tail pipe of left side. seems like coolant. when it sits, there is coolant under the bike and on the front of the engine. I can find nothing wrong, or broke. PSI check was 145 PSI both cylinders, swap of carbs to different set did nothing I am at a total loss, I even re wired the stator since it had a reading out of range, and to no avail. if I cant figure it out, I am parting the bike and getting a newer one. any input will help, where can coolant come from on the lower half of the engine. I am lost on this one.