Overboost

I wont even drive a car without letting it run for a few. I just mentioned that because before I rejetted it, it would not run for squat until it was fully warmed. it is runnable after 10 seconds, I have to let it run for a minute or 2 before I "get on it" it ran for around 5 min before I rode it yesterday, I was setting idle and checking how it would react when you bumped the gas a few times, just the norm when you just installed some new toys. and the cool head, I would do that regardless, it loves to over heat in the dunes. I had coolant dripping over my pipes from the radiator last year, not doing that again. and I may....give it....a bit more compression..... just a thought.

I expected an increase in power, but man, what a difference. now it is time for a cool head, got one picked out from NOSS on the site here. this is like when I went from my neon to my corvette....

yes, I got an extra set, did my research, jetted them up and changed carbs, filters and pipes as a unit. runs WAY better than before, even at idle. no more cold blooded. I used to have to let it warm up and ride it around the parking lot before I could "ride" it, not anymore, fire it up, wait 10 seconds and go, runs great. are the stock pipes THAT limited?

just put pro circuit platinum pipes and KN pods on today. bike was bone, utter stock right down to the tors. fires right up, first kick, no choke or nothing, rode it across my yard, expecting what it did last year when it was stock and holy FUCK... I cant keep the front wheels on the ground in first gear, never got into second and it just rips and tears. I dont know what you people are thinking when you think that pipes and filters are not enough, it scared the living shit out of me. almost scared to take it on the trails now, if it is going to do that all day, I was on grass but so what. sand and dirt wont be as bad but what about the dunes. whoa...... I knew it would make a difference but not THAT kind of difference. and I still have a 15 tooth sprocket on it, I was going to do a 13, not now.... so now what, do I need a swing arm to keep it from popping wheelies all day?

I have a box and snorkel, once I get all my parts on it will have pods and pro circuits.

yea, the red baron on center and jesters lounge on north center. I am in grand blanc, I just use flint on my sig so everyone knows where it is, no one ever heard of grand blanc outside of genesee county.

taper should be to the back of the bike, or when you remove your air lid, you look down into the carbs, you should see the tapers

I am acually in grand blanc by the mundy/GB/burton border. I can walk to burton in 5 min, not that I would want to walk there, I moved out for a reason.

hey, your in oscoda, I am in flint, if your down this way, I have an extra set of carbs, jets and needles. you can try swapping out the bodies themselves and try some diff needles. if it works, great, if not, mail my shit back to me.

ahh, that makes more sence.. and no, I was not trying to see if could simply change needles instead of rejet.. I wanted to know if, when I rejet, should I use the longer needles or stock. what is the advantage of the two. with my pipes and pods, I have it jetted at 320 now, and wanted to know if I should use stock needles or the longer ones. sorry for any confusion.

that skull helmet is trick as hell...I love it

there are some truths behind octane boosters, and some bad.. first, I used to race my grand national, everyone knows you are not cutting corners on an engine running a turbo boosting @24LBS, but there are ways to make your gas go "farther" so to speak. first, a way to make your own octane booster that works EXCELLENT and will give you some great gains, but in the meantime, is a pain in the ass to do.. xylene, mixed with trans fluid and kerosene... sounds fuqued but it works, my GN loved it..... but since no one wants to do that, it costs about $20 to make 1.3 gallons of it which treats about 5-10 gallons of gas I have included a list of octane boosters that work, and ones that dont. it is a review done by private company so you can decided for yourselves whats good, whats bad and whats bogus. I used the STP in my vette and road bike, no bad effects. but...it does only raise the octane value by around 2-3 TRUE octane points (93 raised to 96 octane) http://volvospeed.com/Reviews/octane_boosters.html EDIT: to read about the reviews, just click on the picture of the booster that is in COLOR in the picture

let me poise this question then, if I used the longer needles, will I be able to use my jets I have currently, or will I have to put in the jets that fit them needles? I been reading that the 270 jet for these needles are not the same as a stock replacement 270, it is acually bigger? is this true, if so is the 270 equal to my 320 or is it just some old 270 jet?

from all the posts I been reading, sounds like the stock short needles are the way to go. I am only running pipes and pods, +4 coming this summer. thats it. so stock needles and 320 jets, problem solved. I just have handfuls of carb parts here, trying to get it all tuned in the first time, so all I have to do is fine tune.

my question, why are some slide needles longer than others. I dont need the sarcasm answers like genetics and crap like that. should the tip of the needle show through the jet bottom when the bowl is off? given both needles are set in the center clip poistion, why are some needles longer. aftermarket?

sure, just ask my friend who says his stock DS 650 does 98

I dont understand the picture of the toilet seat in your sig? sent you a PM EDIT: inbox is full

$75 shipped?

payment sent via paypal for carb setup....

with the wheels up, there is still centrifugal force that will cause the wheels to turn. car will do the same thing with a stick., you can grab them and they will stop.

so, you painted the car.....dont notice much else different...? just pissing with ya.. you will be miles ahead by starting with the carbs, quick, cheap and easy to fix, rebuild.

30 pilot soungs mega huge on just those mods. check your slides, when I changed my jets, my slides would stick just a crack from the bottom, would seat when you smacked em down. I took them out, cleaned the bores and no problems since.

I like beating up on these cars, and the GTSlow for that matter. for some reason, people think they are fast. high 13's are not fast. back in 95 it was, but in todays cars, it is average, slow for a V8 car. its a family wagon that they put an SS badge on it so the family guy can think he has something besides a 4 door kid tote. LONG LIVE THE DODGE MAGNUM....another car they named cool so guys would buy it. just a station wagon with a hemi. the LS2 GTSlow runs 13.4 and these cars are about 13.8 stock, same as my 87 5.0 mustang ran.

I have a copule of nice high end cigars I will trade ya. I need a new set of stockers, mine are full of oil... 22 years of 2 stroking sure builds up in the pipes if you pay shipping, I can hook you up with about 10 of them cigars. EDIT: I just noticed your in michigan, I can pick them up, and smoke a cigar with ya......

correct me if I am wrong and I am still learning to tune it in but, the mains dont affect idle do they? seems if you changed the main jets and needle it wont affect the idle. I am pretty sure if it was fine before and now it is dicked up, they must be way out of whack.