Overboost

I have a set, not the greatest shape looks wise, but I just cleaned and oiled them, should function flawless. what do ya have to trade? I need a keyswitch and key.

what color is the pinto? is it all stock?

looking to buy a working (key word here) used pingle dual fuel valve. must have all things to hook up to stock gas tank, dont want no missing parts, except maybe screws. reasonable price.

I also have a set in about that same condition. in case anyone else is looking for some

x2

what mains and pilot size is it running? choke tube in place? any air leaks since putting on new parts?

I am doing my chops on brand new plugs running WFO, warming on older ones. cutting them with a dremel I did change my needles back to stock. I had aftermarket ones in there that were about 1/4" longer and the taper was different. I switched back to stock needles and it seems to run much better off idle. I wont know that this helped until I can get it back on the trails next weekend and run her WFO again. flint tends to frown on people running quads at 70MPH on the roads around here. I have been testing on my side yard, I dont get out of first but it has a much better low response. I can putt around and it dont bog or buck around. I jetted it back up to the 320/27.5 until I can verify the needles were not the issue. I cant see it wanting a bigger jet, but I guess every bike is different.

that is what I was running, 40:1 with yamalube R2 I ran 32:1 on my old stock setup. so your saying go back up in jetting to my 320, and mix my gas to about 48:1 ?? I am having this issue at lower speeds and off idle, it does do it up top but not near as much as idle to mid once it gets going it runs great, just hesitates down low. no backfires or anything, but it does smoke when it is warm while idling, it didnt do that before. it only smoked when you first start it, then got warm and would quit, now it smokes when you start it, and tapers off when warm, but still smokes a bit at 180 degrees I will jet back up to the 320 and remix some gas @40:1 to be sure I mixed 16OZ to 5 gal if that helps. EDIT: I found this little mix calculator on the net. just though it was kinda neat http://www.csgnetwork.com/oilfuelcalc.html

tires are 20's and no matter how much I stayed in the throttle, it would not go over 72.1 his on his GPS hit 66.7 and he was also on 20's, he is going to 22 tires, and I was going to a 13 tooth but I think my 15 is fine for me. would dropping a clip on the needle help? I have no problems except when at part throttle, and the pin it. as long as you keep in it, it is great, you let it cruise or idle, it loads up so to speak. that is why I dropped the jetting. I dont want to go leaner on oil, I thought the 40:1 was a bit too lean for yamalube. I dont want to go 50:1, thats what my snow blower runs. big difference. I normally run 32:1 ratio and never have a problem. but that was with stock pipes and box. it ran great then, I did nothing else excpet change out the pipes, filters and jet it from 210 and 25 pilots to the current 320 and 27.5, thats it, it never did this before hand. so it must be in the jetting somewhere, just need to find that happy medium now.

oh yea, thats what I forgot to add, oil was mixed at 40:1 with yamalube 2R oil I mixed it richer than the usual 32:1 I run because it was colder out, I didnt want it to run lean. also, when just at idle, if you run it and pull the plugs, they are wet with gas.... if you run it hard, they are dry, I ran it WFO shut her down and pulled plugs, gave em a chop and they had the black ring. WFO on the GPS it topped out at 72.1 MPH with a 15 tooth sprocket. dont know if that is slow, fast or average, but it beat my friends DS 650 with a KN, exhaust, CDI and 14 tooth sprocket. beat him out of the hole, down the road and when I let him get 3 lengths or so ahead, I would catch and pass him around the top of 5th

ok, heres the deal.. have to rev it to get it to move from idle, not high, just dont take off smooth. second, once your moving, say, 15 MPH you gun it, it bogs (hesitates) and then rips ass, fast. third, if your 3/4 throttle, you pin it, it hesitates for a second, then just roars.... forth, if you just cruise, and are around half throttle or less, it like labors the engine, then it takes off like you just hit the throttle but you dont move it. its like it loads up, runs the extra gas out and then speeds up. any input? I have 320 jets, 27.5 pilots, longer needles on middle clip (of 6) 1200' elevation 45-55 degrees it is like it has this hesitation throughout the power band, once you get past it, about 2 seconds, it just flys. and its rich..puffs black smoke every time it does this, plugs have a black ring around the electrode when chop is done. I jetted it down to 300 and 25 pilot

the jump in my avatar was done on a J arm frame bike. the only reason they went to J arms is because the other bikes on the market were currently A arm. so not being one to be left behind when everyone else was "moving forwards" they changed it to an A arm setup. ball joints can come out of an A or J bike, since there is no way to grease the stockers unless you modify them. the frame mounts get sloppy on a J arm faster because you only have the 1 mounting point to the frame and an A arm has 2, I just replaced my bushings and my J arm setup is like new, no slop anymore. about the only down side is you can lie about the year of your A arm bike unless you run the VIN, on a J arm, you know it is older than a 91

walmart brand outboard 2 stroke oil, 32.1 but I am soon switching to a better quality oil, synthetic so I can mix to a leaner ratio. and remember, your mix also depends on your jetting.. if you mix leaner oil, your jetting may be rich if it was "spot on" to begin with,,,vice versa if you jet it richer in oil

got the carbs synced as close as I can by eyeball, slightest touch of the throttle and they both move. the tank is down a bit, less than a gallon, just have enough in for starting and tuning until I get ready to take off, then fill it. it only seems to do it mostly when its cold until it warms up around 140 degrees, then they both seem to be even, thats why I thought rings, rings get hot, expand, give my full compression. am going to try some new plugs when I take it out, so I can buy a few sets, to tune it up, get the jetting dead on. guess I will get a compression tester if I cant figure it out, just to be sure. it runs great, just bothers me knowing they are uneven. outside of that, rips ass pretty good.

choke tube is a go, plugs are older, will change them out. starts up stone cold 3rd kick, warmed up, first one no choke.

carb sync is dead nuts on. got that perfect when I jetted it and reinstalled carbs. sync is good through little windows and looking down carb throats.

quick general question about compression.. when motor is running, right pipe has a nice loud pop to it, puffs some smoke and sounds good. left pipe dont smoke at all, and has no pop to it, just a bit of air puffing out. without doing an actual compression check, is my left cylinder going out? runs excellent, and really didnt notice it until sat night. head is stock. if it needs rings, do you just pop off the jugs and change rings? enough to get my by until winter, at which time I will probly go forged pistons, cool head, port, domes and FAST clutch. thanx for the input.

only problem is even though it was rated at 210 with the intercooler, they still ran a mid/high 15 second quarter. I guess not too bad back in 86ish area, but even when built, not very impressive. good thing is that 2.3 motor is bullet proof. hard to kill them, tough motor.

thats what I was thinking. change out your needles seats and float needles, you should be good, but at the point, just redo the whole carb, clean it, make it look pretty.

pro circuits

sounds like me after pipes and filters. I think I may go head and porting next.... and here I said it was too flipping fast, listen to me now....yadda yadda yadda

well...as you stated, everyone has thier own opinion. but.. all oil MUST meet a certain standard. so, cheap oil, is the same as good oil, just cost less. including 2 stroke/cycle oil motor oil claims are the worst (please, never use motor oil for a 2 stroke). make claims to be better then the next guy, when fact is, they all come from the same oil tanker, all refined the same and they all have the same product as stated by the little circle on the back of the can that tells you its grade. granted some have different additives than others, but the base oil is still the same. in a banshee, you dont want additives anyways. about the only oil that is superior to regular oil is synthetic. blend oils are a waste, mix synthetic with regular oil defeats the purpose of synthetic. I use, have always used in all my 2 strokes, including my banshee for going on 2 years now, walmart brand 2 cycle outboard oil. runs great in my bikes, outboards and high revving snow blower and chainsaw. never a problem until my oil injection like got plugged with crap and that was bad, but not caused by the type of oil I was running.

my pipes bounce back and forth in sync then they puff together for a second then back and forth again. repeats this continually. guess its right, runs great.

not too bad, bout 60 but we were riding hard up hills, not much room to run. small dunes in st helen

when my bike was stock, I could hang right with my friends DS 650 and they are a pretty good comparison to a raptor. with your mods, you should be able to take out a piped raptor. just get used to how your banshee rides, runs and make sure your jetting is on good. keep it in your power band, dont over rev cuz your excited and you should make short work of him. once you over rev, you really loose some power, esecially if your pipes are low/mid pipes, they will fall off in the top end.