AKheathen

hmm, can't think of where to get that kit, but mull makes a velocity kit, you should check out.

well, if we get a reply, we will know if it worked or not.....if we dont............i think it's safe to say fail

what kind of porting, and what kind of riding? you more favorable to ride bottom end-mid, or always trying to rev it out and keep it pinned allot? larger carbs will have some more topend, but your motor will only flow so muc, and more than that is just a waste, and makes the bottom end near impossible to tune right. anywhere from 28-33 can make you happy in the end, but with 220psi- i don't think you are going to be doing much topend overrev, and will probably like a 28, mabey 30. just to give you an example, i'm running lectron 30's right now on my stock stroke and pro-circuits, which is a bit over-carbed, but will be more than enough for the 4mill i'm building.

what's the story on the topend? whay is it all new fluids? if it is a brand new topend, then it could've been too tight, and/or not broken in right, or not at all when you got it. if it has been sitting for a long ass time, then a number of things could have happened from rusted up rings/cyl to drystarts or old buildup gumming the rings. could also be a new-old oil compatibility problem. did you run/drain the old premix out before filling it with clots?

man, are you sure they are 230's mabey 330's? that is definately lean size, especially for pro-circuits. possibly the missfire was the only thing saving you from overreving the lean motor long enough to melt the pistons. another thing could be the floats are too high, dumping too much fuel. it will not spill out and let you know, like stock carbs do. really pluged filter, would overricen it, too. first 2 things the symptoms described pointed to were too rich, and poor ignition. if it pulls strong, and not zinggy in all gears up to wot, then do a proper plug chop right away, before possibly doing damage.

omg, i'm trying to be constructive, really, i would like to, but the only thing i can't get out of my head tonight, is "i really hope nobody listensto this shit, and sells that motor to someone else......" oh, and 20 hours should be a damn near brand new topend. you know they say repitition is the best way to remember something is through repetition, so i'm gonna re-impress a couple things. time-area is more important to look at at all stages of port opening, rather than the hog-out=power mentality. also- not touching the roofs leaves a real messy opening, sleeve ridge, and all around poor flow well worth the attention.

hmm, makes me wonder if it was broke in properly. if not, there could be binding. and are you certain the rings/pistons went back in the same jugs?. just a thought- are you warming it up before you go ride hard?

suspension, suspension, suspension. unless you have a wild hair up your ass to get allot more power, focusing on your handling components as you can afford them will let you ride harder and faster. shocks, arms, swinger, AXLE, tires, good bars, etc. next step is carbs and porting. the vitos pistons simulate raising the exhaust port a bit, by recessing the crown where it lines up to the exhaust. you can have it match ported at the intake and transfers, nothing major. later on, it can be ported for regular pistons, or you can just wait untill it needs rebuild, then have it ported. only go as big on the carbs as what you are going to be able to use 90% of the riding. for example, you are probably never going to be able to trail anything over a 30mm carb on stock stroke without allot of fine tuning and repition, but you can go 33-35 in dunes, depending on the total flow and environment.

that's about the best thing there. keep a spare set, but just make sure they are not hard, flat, or torn, and reuse.

yah, there is also 2 different types of needle greaser attatchments. one peirces the rubber, and another is made for a needle zirc. i have both, but rarely use the peircing one. most of the time you can use the needle zirc attatchment and manuver it under the boot and get the tip inside to grease, so it doesn't leave a puncture in the boot.

are the bars totally stiff, or is there any freeplay? didn't you have the yfz ffront with aftermarket uppers? what length shocks? do you know the adjustment?

overtightening. it compresses the sealing ring on the plug so that it no longer has any "spring" in it and no longer seals. on the other hand, it can also streatch the threads. try brand new spark plugs and tighten them to spec.

sounds like you probably have an airleak, or pluged up carbs, if compression isn't the issue, but there is probable cause to tear into the clutch cover right away. start with a leak-down and inspect the pistons. how were the rings and ring lands? they weren't used rings were they? you should have also at least honed.

did you use the 1/2 round, or bastard file attatchment?...but serously, i found a dune/drag build book for professional industry. it's actually published through motor.... sand-energy

like this- r1, r6, hybusa are street bikes, made for asphault and concrete roads, but nothing else. the banshee, and all 4wheelers for that matter, are all-terrain calssified, which ironicslly does not include the road terrain. it's just classification restrictions, the same as what happened when the power was restricted to something like 150 in the 70's for sports cars, but tractors were still unlimited. that is also the story behind the big change in advertising bhp and whp. they could take a 350bhp motor and make it read 150 at the wheel

haha, yah, i really don't think there is any such literature, just what the guys doing it know. only way you are gonna find out is by building them, whether you are working for a shop that does it, which may present legal problems, preventing you to be allowed to do it. or, you can reverse-engineer, as mentioned, but i don't know what problems that poseses, or you can just design your own systems/cuts. if you spend a day or so reading up on this site, you will find more info than you realize, and, imho, if you can't come up with an override afterwards, then you are probably not gonna make it in the trade. the biggest problem is the machinery to cut them, not as much as just how they work. you will also need to run some r&d and long term hard use trials to find the bugs that will show up.

werd.

Looks like Jb-weld patch job from a chain whack to me

Holy crap .060"? I might think about torqueing the cyls down in sequential steps......5-15-22. Even though, 5psi is about the max I would live with, but the rings still need to seat. What's the reason for the thick gasket? Just needed for squish?

So........can we update the home page?

you know- if you would stop thinking of porting as "mellow" or "radical" it would open a whole new world of understanding. and, when you subtract the cost of a coolhead and vforce reeds from the builder cost, it really changes things. porting is between 3-4 usually, so 120 to try yourself, 3-4 to have it done right, and most likely 2-5 to fix botched cyls with limited option, probably just drag port, if they can. not to mention, a slip into the cyls could mean need for a $100 bore job, and new piston/rings to match. and, the builder will factor bore/hone with the port

you would have to have the stock one checked out first to see if it is worth it. imo, the only reason to work a stock crank is to beef up a good one that will not soon wear out. basically, make sure the inner bearings are well within limits and not gonna fail anytime soon, as well as rods/bearings. then it would be worth having it welded, mabey even cryoed, if you want it damn near indestructible. no sence welding a worn one. outter bearing condition doesn't really matter, since those 2 and the seals are easily replaced. completely rebuilding a crank could cost just about as much as buying a new welded crank

wtf is that rpg shit? i'm sure it belongs in a comp/tech, or off-topic section thread......

as far as engine, i would look into reeds and play with the timing. +4 is geneally a safe, all-round number, but you caould go either way, depending on what you want. less advance will move more topend and overrev favorable, while more advance will bring the snap from the bottom, mid, all the way up, but with less overrev. of coarse, the setting will change depending on what fuel you are running, and how close you are to minimum requirements. for example, if you are at 1500asl, 18cc, .5mm overbore, dune port, and run 112, then you have plenty of room to squeeze power with the timing, but if you bring the octane down closer, loke 100, you will not only need less timing, but, will be dangerous to go to far advanced. diferent types of burn rates, etc, so basically just play with the timing in small increments, and keep an eye on deto, which would show on a plug chop run. as far as the reed spacers- the "intake" side refers to the carb side. if you choose vf3's however, only install them on the cyl side, since they use the intake flange to hold the assy, together.

it could judt be debris in the float needle or mis-adjusted float, too.