AKheathen

bump your gets up 1 or 2 sizes, and move your needle clips 1 more knotch from the top than it is. when it runs ok, do a plug chop to check your mains. what oil are you using?

yah, 30's are a bit much for your setup/environment. go 27.5 :thumbsup: welcome man, i'm at about your global opposie, i think. alaska is it true the water drains the opposite direction?

ditto. 2.8? not sure what that is, but if snow is flyin, then you need at least 27.5 and 280's prolly 300's, but gotta get that pilot richened up. you know it's lean, but not what size, so if you start with a known size, at least you know where to go from there.

yah, it's loading up with fuel on the low end. 27.5's do sound better, but do a plug chop after you change them to make sure the 280's are still enough

did you notice any difference in your clutch?

sorry, don't mean to sound like an ass

i was under the impession for the last 12 years that it was the temp of the ceramic insulator, because shorter ones dissipate heat faster.

ok, firs we need alot more info. what mods do you have? what fuel are you running? what's your elevation or location? i'm guessin those br9's were pretty black, or need to know why they were in there if you can get a compression check, that would be verry helpfull. did you put the br9's in to test? is that what you r sayin? :shrug:

sorry, i was going to bed. what i was sayin was that stock jets are fine for 3000 ft, but at 500 ft, you move the pilot needle 1 clip richer and it should be fine unless it sounds lean between 1/2 and 3/4 throttle. then you'll have to go up to a 27.5 and lean the needle for 3000 ft riddin, unless you really wanna change them each time. just a pain in the arse imo. you'll have to take it for a ride to find out what'll work best for you.

well the ting about alonger lever is thatyou can get it comfortably closer to the ball of your thumb, which helps alot imo. when you stab wot, your thumb rolls to the end. it's akward to try that with the stock lever, cus you have to move your hand in and out. i'm a mechanic, so my thumb is already in shape from turning wrenches 12 hours a day, for 21 days in a row, but years ago, i used to just ride the ball of my thumb on my blaster :thumbsup: <--ha ha- "super thumb"

fast has some o=rings for where it goes into the head. they're cheap too :biggrin:

sounds unballanced, like you need to sync your carbs. maybe a bit lean on the pilots too.

most likely. if you move the needle clip 1 knotch away from the blunt end and it doesn't sound zingy between 1/2 and 3/4 throttle, then you're good and can still adjust for 3000 ft, without changing the pilot. otherwise, go to 27.5. you'll have to check again when you go with more timing too. :thumbsup:

dude, why don't u guys just trade pipes for a bit, ur would that be like smellin mcdonalds on the atkins diet for you?

yah they are that way, but it should be smooth. get cable lube kit from fast and then look around for a longer lever, or a whole thumb or twist throttle. i think someone was parting with theirs on here somewhere- nothing wrong, just liked thumb better :biggrin:

ok let's settle this. put a uni pod on one carb, and a k7n on the other, then do the oil test an see which one's better :shrug:

he has another coil to try instead of the ricky sucksmore coil

ok, let's tart with syncing the carbs, the way i do this on my sleds is pull the pods. then, back the idle screws one at a time un till the slide bottoms out. count the turns it takes for each, add them and divide by 2. that will have the idle synced. do the same with the airscrews. next, put your fingers on the slides and push the throttle a little, if one moves first, adjust the cable on that one untill they move in unisen. now your synced. :thumbsup: without using the vaccuum tool anyway. next, does it sound zingy, throaty, or muffled? those pods really make her speak novels :laugh: now, pull one wire at a time and see if it runs on that cylinder. then change that coil, cus they're probably not both bad. was that a stock cdi that you put on?

just brings to mind- i think someone should markett a h.a.c. kit for these. seems like it should be easy, till you get to the choke :ermm:

ha ha, get used to it. turn it in till it stops,, but not too hard like shee4speed said. 1.5 turns is a good starting point when you get jetted, but adjust them till it idles the highest when warmmed up. if you have to go much more than 1/2 turn either way, you'll have to move the needle. when you say 500-3000ft, is that riddin up a mountain, or several different spots to ride? if it's the later, you should adjust for any major altitude changes, because, that big of a difference, would make it not want to idle. ie. if you adjust for 500, and ride 3000, it'l load up with fuel at idle. the opposite, it will be a bitch to start and might stall, so keep a small screwdriver with you, or just don't ever let it idle lol. <---j/k oh yah, it might help to trim your lids and throw them on for the lower elevations

solvent. it evaporates, so you don't have to worry.

so that's what stock looks like. i almost forgot. should be able to flip those rear tires around to about 48" for some high speed drifting :thumbsup: i got 22/12/9's on stock gold (about 49") and it holds a slide verry well- bumps, mougles, u name it.

are you sure you unplugged the tors box? (yellow/black; black/white; black wires across from the coil) plugging it in shouldn't make it run, all it does is send a kill signal to the same wire as the kill switch.

it's not to clean it, it's to make the shit wash off easier next time. spray everything, but the exhaust after you wash it, then wipe it off, i use simple green to clean stubborn shit. or solvent.

mine doesn't stay verry long, but i used to hold it and put along a bit.