AKheathen

i would recomend a standard in-line noise filter used for radios & stereos. it's like a ferrite choke, but better. instead of running a loop through it, it has a wire wrapped around a ferrite core. if you have an old 2 or 3 way speaker layin around, you can use the coil of of it. or if you have a cross-over (the kind you wire to the speaker wires not rca's) wire it to the sub output, and the power to the input, but the noise filters are cheap, small, and @ every radio shack

i'm here above the arctic circle right now, just got off work @ 0630, have to do a safety class @ 1300 and back to work @ 1830. what's worse, i have to switch between nights and days each time i come back, i'm starring at a bunch of sno, and 800 miles north of my sno-covered sno-go and shee, and only1 out of 3 weeks down. but hey, at least i get to go home on christmass eve this year, and i have the BHQ :biggrin: u lucky yorkers, i have to go 60 miles from home lately to find that kinda snow. only a foot at home right now mild winters lately

67 waiting on me to empt the garage and finish the 69

o hey, don't get me wrong, i would advance maybey +2, but that's cus i can only get 90 octane pump gas. if you run 93 octane anyways, go ahead for +4, because 200 watts takes a little more to turn anyways(if you run high watt lights) which is why i assume you're running a 200 watter anyways. i was just letting you know why they said 0 degrees. then again, if you're happy with it now, and want a little free power later, you know what to do :thumbsup:

i'd be down for a hoodie-NO HOMO-ZIP-....j/k, but really no zipper. yellow if possible, and blue t. if snow is that life altering, i'd tell bossman to fcuk oph, i'm goin for a drive! up here in AK, i live for snow. i'd cry if it got up to 34 :sweat:

not quite sure what you mean by nasally. like steve erkil having sex? a bog off idle would almost like it's tryin to die, but a hesitation would be tat it wouldn't have much power untill you held it there for a second, then power would start to kick in(under load)

at 0 you could run shit gas still and not have problems other than the fact that you're running shit gas. if you increase timing, you have to run higher octane and make sure you are more tennative to the fuel. they say 0 so that you are liable if you detonate from running 87 octane +5 and stock jets. but i wouldn't worry about changing it untill you start messin with exhaust and carbs/intake. i would worry more about whether or not that rs is gonna shitcan on you, or even work in the first place- just the word on the streets.

i'm happy with my renthal's, but i don't know if anyone els has issues with them. F.A.S.T. pro-tapers are nice too, come in a million varieties, and are sold everywhere.

just wonderin, cus i have it on the blaster, and it's a verry distinctive exhaust.

polaris, ha ha :yelrotflmao: the historically polar opposite of yamaha. not talkin about parts, just mentioning polaris made me think about how yamaha hasn't built a decent sled untill recently, and polaris just needed to stick to sno-go's. but recently, anything goes- a little off subject

oh yah, duh.... caliper piston, was thinkin engine for some reason :shoothead:

oh, i hate u guys. wish i could buy new, its bad enough yam dealers snicker like "oh u have a 2-stroke, it's only half as good" attitude in US. ps. get a brace on those bars. it just looks funny, imo

u kiddin? i still see tires you quitter :tongue: ...j/k

huh?

anyone ever try sno-go throttle?

i would've just stamped "sucks ass" under it, or someting along those lines :yelrotflmao:

the carb wires run in series, so it just wouldn't idle. i'm assuming you ran the rs flywheel too. i've them be out of time, out of round, and magnets come loose. just search "rs junk" or "ricky stator" on here, and you'll see what i mean. but i'm warning you, there are probably an assload of posts on it :biggrin: oh, and check your pickup gap on both sides

that shit would piss me off if i hadn't read it, at least you gave the link, thanx. would probably run it in my s10 or lowridder, but not the bike. it's comparable to 75-90 gear only applications, without high heat, like riddin dunes, hill, mud, basically anything a banshee does for more than 5 min at a time. the shockproof oil that would work better imo is this one

u planin on havin one re-wound or somthin?

still gonna have to fuck wit the needles, sorry. jet it for 500ft with a trimmed lid, and pull the lid move the needle leaner when you get to 3000ft. cant really jet for that big of difference, but you definately don't want it lean.

cool beans :thumbsup: i was just worried, cus i have a 4 runner that pissed everywhere when i used ps fluid in the power steering instead of atf. when i switched to synthetic blend, then synthetic, it did the same on the engine.... i don't like switching anymore i've done other cars and trucks with the same story as well, so when it comes to automotive, stick with what u got, unless it's a cartrige seal- i havn't seen those fail from that yet

i waf du man :yelrotflmao:

is that 5 years on a new engine? or did you have regular oill for a while before that. just wonderin because i was wanting to switch to atf, but it's had conventional oil for over 3 years, and seals don't usually like big changes in oil type.

just lick it befor you stick it man :yucky: i do it almost daily, and sometimes multiple times a day :yelrotflmao: OIT. just rub some spit on the o-rings before you shove the pipes in. i prefer it over lube, especially in high heat areas, because some lubes can harden like resin and are a pita to clean ::

oh, isee, it's just in the terms. like when spark is called fire, even though it's not :biggrin: when the electrode gets too hot, it works like a glow plug and ignites the fuel too soon. you can also detonate the ceramic from the cold fuel/air hitting it. like putting ice in a really hot glass. the piston melts because fuel is burning too long on it from preignition. :thumbsup: oh and it's true, that the lower the number, the hotter the plug. ame with denso's too, i belive