Wiz

his whole thread has been about attacks. and I am not innocent, I am as strong willed as anyone and belive I am as correct as the next guy. To be honest it is SAD that it came to the point it has. I have gotten Several PM's from people I do not know or have ever spoken to that have commented on seeing some of the points I have brought up and are intrested in what I have accomplished with my set-up but are afraid to post anything in here because of being attacked as being stupid by the "powers that be". I do not know if that is the image they are wanting to portray but that is what is comming off. Like Bansheeboy stated in his posts there could have been better ways of saying things without causing an argument, I again state I was not innocent but not only my fault. Cheers

Geeze was that last post about me?....it is ok you can call me out I am a big boy and can defend myself.... Not that I need to at this point. No matter what I say the head honchos think I am a dumbass and a dick allready.. The first thing you mentioned I take full credit for. I did say something smartassed about 2001banshee not knowing what case porting was about, It was a joke I had read alot of posts on here before i posted anything. I had seen he was pretty knowelgable on banshees. and made an assumtion that he would get it and I was wrong. I did appologize to him and we shared a PM about it also. I have heard of the ball and rod weld job although I have never seen it or experienced it. The post was made along the lines of I don't understand how it happens so much or what "actually" causes it, seems to me that rider error would cause it more than anything else. In the said topic that this comment was refered to I believe the person said the pulled a banshee for like 3 miles after something broke in the clutch or tranny, the whole time they pulled the bike they had the clutch pulled in and that cause the ball to weld. My rider error point fits here, why not just pull the chain off the rear sprocket? Please somebody give me an example of the "ball weld" happeneing to THEM and what they think caused it I am curious. You are correct I have hung out with MANY of the NW largest builders, and I feel some of the best, while I do not agree with the practices of all of them, Cascade being one of the largest, to tell you the truth I don't like Cascade, I have used them as an example on this thread (with my point going un-noticed as usuall, all I got was they build pretty bikes not one comment on how well there bikes run with the set-ups they run but I understand you have never seen them run) several of my friends and myself have been treated very poorly by them since Tim took over. But I do respect what they accomplished in the busniess and they build very pretty bikes that run 2nd to none in the play world, it was a much better place when Kevin owned it. While I am not sure if Cascade pioneered the pancake bearing set-up they have pushed it more than any other along with many other things they have built and sold for a long time like billet products, paul turner pipes and the single carb set-up. I see this pancake bearing thing as a good busniess ploy, make people believe they need it and the problem it fixes. Make it sound like a huge problem or a performance gain, resonably priced and it will be a sure seller. Not unlike thousands of other products out there. (I got a whole box of boost bottles for sale) It is all about marketing and making people think that is what they need. Booker I don't care what you buy I am not trying to sell anything or here to impress you or anyone. Have simply stated what has worked for ME, where I ride and how I ride and would recomend it to anyone with simalar circumstances... But you know what they say "Oppinions are like assholes, everyone has one"

Dude you got props from me for doing this. No matter how well it works when done you will be able to site back and say "I did that", and that is one hell of a project for anyone.

I second the props for Cameron @ Redline http://www.redline-racing.net/

the cylinders I have now are decked also I just want you to clear something up, everything but CPI or Shearers are the "wrong" pipes and anything smaller than 35mm carbs are the "wrong" carbs? I am not tryigto be a smart ass just looking for some clarification...

anybody ever seen one of these? http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.a...mp;autoview=sku apparently from what i have read they fit import cars and will fit a banshee, for those that run fullbore plastic it would work pretty good I think and is cheap. they sell them at autozone also

arn't people putting yfz shocks on banshee's (the fronts)? I don't quite understand why unless you get a good deal on them seems like you can buy elkas for the front for less than 400 bones..

very well said..... my Patriot 4mil cub was set up about exactly like that, I was using a little shorter dome, 33's and t-5's and that bike was a kick in the ass to ride. My new motor is running a little more top end but still has that bottom and mid range power. I am a fat ass and needed more power... my point through this whole arguement has been you can take a cub motor with casting clean-ups no porting and make a great dune bike out of it.... alot of people have done it and will contiue to do it, they are a cheap way to get into the small stroker or big bore market with the capability to make them run how you want weather it be a drag set up or a play set-up

I have a buddy that has a set of cut t-3's chrome if intrested $200 with silencers I believe...although they would look better black and rusty... you guys should not agree with me you will get labled as not knowing notthing also...

So what is your point exactly? you are smarter than the guys building and selling 12grand bikes and have been doing it for many years? but that is rite cub motors only run with drag pipes and big carbs....

just what I thought same shit out of the same mouth.... I got dan's number if you want it..... People that are not dumbasses and call him with stupid questions get it..... yea he set my 4 mil cub up for t-5's too.....

lets back the bus up...I never said that a single carb set-up or paul Turner pipes were the way to go, I said Irun t-5 pipes on my motor with my set up, I run 35mm pwk's and do not believe in the single carb set-up.... Hercalm...you prove your own point hare scrambles....that is not abuse where you are in deep sand half way up the wheels with alot of paddle for traction, you run a knobbie tire on dirt or mud....traction is your problem allready, that is the reason you do not break parts. Daj put the crack pipe down, by not alot of timing i mean no need for more than +4 you do nothing but solidify what I say and yet do not acknowledge the things you can't argue.... it shows that you truely have no expereince past 300' Do yourself a favor pick up your telephone and call Dan you seem to kow him so well, while your at it call cascade, call Cameron Call Lewie, any of these builders that build motors for these conditions that live and ride here and see What they say....I will post there phone numbers if you would like... Tell you what I am going to Lewie's rite now PM me your number I and I will have him call you, matter of fact Cascade is less than a mile from his shop I will swing by there and give mike and Tim you number also...but you probably know more about sand ridding than any of these guy too.... You know for this being your site there sure is a lack of your motor builders that have your back on this, I know Dan is a member of this forum also. I appologized to you for anything rude I have said insult you, I have been the bigger man you sure set a good example for the rest of the people on your site....I bet your sponsors love it...

un stamped cpi's are a sleeper look? I don't think CPI's are that hard to notice what they are. I guess it is all what you consider a "sleeper".....

I would not recomend cub or any other aftermarket cyclinders to anyone on a farm or genral slow duning but apparently you keep missing the point? Let me break this down a little simpler for you. we ride in the deep sand that takes HP to move and lots of HP to move good, when we drop down into tree holes or shots, alot of the time there is not bottom so you are slidding you bike 200 to 500 feet down the side of a dune that is pushing a 40 degree angle with nothing below you but brush no flat spot to turn around or stop. You have to be able to get on the high side of the bike and get the bike sideways while using your breaks and your clutch/throtthel to just get the tire to spi just enough to loop it around a tree. once you have done all of that it is time to put the power down, normally you are in and out of the throttle 5-6 times wheels in the air while you weave your way out of these holes. There are no easy ways out it is the way you go in or a rope. Now I have ran stock cyclinder bikes with good luck mostly, the problems you run into with your 80ph stocker is there is no bottom end power, and no reliability. Sure somebody said on here 80 hp bike that were lasting 3 seasons how much hard dune ridding were done in those 3 seasons? on a stock cylinder motor once you start out of one of these holes and have to burp the throttle you cannot get it back up on the pipe without feathering the clutch, they are not true dune ported pull in the midrange and bottom stock cylinder motors. When you get aggressive with the clutch you start bearking baskets, clutches, chains, sprockets and transmissions. Same problem with a Cub motor with CPI's or Shearers all the power in the world on the top end at 10,000 RPM but once you get out of that power and have to get back into it you are done.... Turn around and hope or get a Rope....With the set-up the smart guys are running this is not a problem. You can get out of the throttle and wick back into it and bang, rite back on the pipe. Not all of this comes from the pipe of course, Alot of this comes from not running a lightend flywheel, not alot of timming and alot of compression. If any of you make it out to Oregon bring your CPI or Shearer bike I have a built 4mil stock cylinder banshee and I have my 4/7 mill cub set up to pull you can ride all three in the places I show you to go and you tell me wich works better.....I have been there allready on the end of a rope I know the answer...

okbasspro, are those Sand Gecko tires on your banshee? does it hook up with those tires? looks like you are running alot of motor and not alot of tire?