AKheathen

that's cool :thumbsup: but i don't bother getting them to idle that low because of constant elevation changes at different ridding spots, or riddin up and down the mountain, not to mention temp changes. i don't feel like adjusting everytime i ride. mabey i'll just get another h.a.c. system plumbed in :shrug:

u kiddin? that looks fun as hell!! :woot: i usually have a creek or pond to splask through. get some regular window screen, and tripple it up in front of your grill. then spray the whole bike down with wd-40 or cooking spray. you should be able to keep the screen clean by tapping it once in a while if the bud doesn't just fall off. i feel sorry for whoever's behind you

oheywow, there it is/\

you eveer hear of the squish-bang theory? :geek: the fuel is overrich enough to cause an initial explosion AND burn without overheating. detonation is when the fuel explodes from the heat of the piston, dome, or plug tip. the reason it doesn't ignite @ bdc is that there is a small amount of exhaust in the dome untill it emulsifies the intake mixture during compression. someone on here has an animation on their sig, but if you look closely, it doesn't show this processes. it is an optomistic view that does not show the wasted fuel mixture that stays through the exhaust, or the the return pulse that sneaks past the reeds while thy're closing. this is why they half to idle over 1500 rpm to really stay running :biggrin:

"soinning"? don't know that one

what's your jetting? what fuel r u running? check your pickup gap and if that's good, can you set the timng back? do you have a stock coil to try out?

if everythhing is in good cond. clean and shine it up, you'd be supprised how many want an untouched machine, and not so much wanting most stock parts.

does it not want to run at 1 1/2 turns? what all did you take apart and clean? check you're o-ring on the choke, float settings, choke tube. shut your fuel off, drain a tiny bit out of each bowl, new or at least clean plugs, and it should start and idle about 20 seconds, if it does, turn the fuel on, and see if it runs and idles for at least a min with out flooding it. and don't to forget to sync them first, (easy way to spot a prob with slides)

usin starting fluid on a dry engine was about the worst he could've done, so i would do comp. check first. after bein storred for a few years, i like to mix up a small bit of 1:1 and pour a little down the plug holes, then turn it over slowly 2x. put a little more in, plugs, and fire it up. should fire instantly. it's already primed, so you don't need to, but oil may have separated in the tank. bring fresh gas, new plugs and some carb cleaner to clean the bowls. good luck :thumbsup:

mine was the same, i just mooved the needles to the bottom knotch because it was hangin around 10-0. i went out riddin, and it warmmed up to 33, so now it's a bit fat, but still screams with the lid off. one clip rich and 220's would prolly be great for you. tou'd be amazed how throaty the intake is with the dense air, and it starts first kick with the choke cold.

firing order = 1+2; 1+2; repeat.

can anyone say "can of worms"

you can have jetting issues with any carbs. what are your needles set at? airscrews?

what are your airscrews set at?

wow, that post is ancient

also, did you check for good blue spark yet?

no. flip it over so the worn one is on the top it would have to be chipped or 2.5 mm gap to have a major effect. ounds like you're having fuel issues. i was typing over dinner last post, so i didn't see the posts before mine, switch to res, then crack the bowl drain screws. it should have a steady stream. if not, time to clean your carbs and adjust your floats. check the flow comming out of the feed lines too.

you should sync your carbs, get some new plugs, and check for good blue spark on both sides. set your air screws at 1 1/2 turns out, then run it and check your plugs again. the air screws are the ones on the left side of the carbs near the air box. on the other side of the carbs is a little glass window that you use to sync the carbs. they are hard to see through sometimes, so i wipe them off, and spray wd-40 on them. depress the throttle slowly, and little silver dot on each slide should reach the window at the same time, if they're out of sync, then pull the rubber boot back where the cable enters and youl find adjuster with lock nut. pull the metal sleeve outward while you turn the nuts. if the dot never shows up on one of them, then the slide is in backwards. turn each idle screw clockwise till the slide stops going down, then counterclockwise 3/4 turn. remember to adjust right and left together and they'll be synced. it is a good idea to sync them anytime they're apart. do a compression test too. run it, check your plugs, and report back. :thumbsup:

take the top off the throttle lever. depress the lever all the way and hold the cable arm out. the thumb lever should moove freely. if not, loosen the lock nut untill it does, and make sure it's lubed good with lubriplate, dri-slide, or some other open lubricant. if that nut's overtightened, it will be very stiff, but if the lever has a lot of play, you should replace it. just something to check :thumbsup:

whoops, :shoothead: should i see a pediatrist or oral surgen for foot removal? colder plug is right, and does prevent glazing, not hotter

if you want, i can explain the cause and effects of glazing, and using a hotter plug will prevent it. obviously the wires already removed. however, they may somehow be touching where they were disconnected :shrug: intermittent electrical problems fixed, and air leak rulled out, maybe drain the fuel and add fresh fuel and good oil to rule that out. then replace the possibly glazed plugs, and see if they possibly glaze again. they will be a good color and look wet, but you can't wipped them dry.

haven't you seen glazing before?

sounds like a glazed plug to me. you could switch to a br9. what oil/mix and octane are you runnin?

this is a pic of my dg, i like it. it's also damn near essential for loading without ramps cus the snow in the tilt deck doesn't let me hold it on, it just slides back, so we have to pick it up on to the trailer. it's verry strong too. it'd prolly look outa place on a race cut duner though.

first, do a compression check, then check your reeds. bad rings/piston will give you low compression when tested, and bad reed or lack of back pressure will give bad dynamic compression. if you've ever had to ride back with a broken exhaust coupler, you know what it's like (other than just bein loud) sync your carbs, pull thecouplers from the front of the carbs and see if one spitts alot. what's your premix at? and at what point does it act up?