AKheathen

your friend has a four stroke. the head is just a chunk of metal on a 2 stroke. it just has to be torqued on right

hmmm.... i'll have to try that- when i already have a new clutch lined up. i'm used to tripple clutching, but the f'n clutch isn't responsive enough fo me. i give it about 3/4 throttle, dump th clutch about2/3 the way up, slip, slip, pinned, shift. like a ricer :biggrin: also clutching through the bottom of each gear for boost.

the power is in the design not the material. vf3 is way better because of the cage and reed shape. carbon fibre's on a stock cage are alot more durable and are designed to run without the stock deflectors, so you can run the pedals the same as the stock ones, and it'll just get a little better, or run without the stock deflectors to change the response. deflectors= better low-mid. without= better mid-top end. i believe boysen even explains this when you go to the online store. i am of course assuming you are talking about replacing the reed pedals, right?

ok, i'm just runnin expanded metal that i painted white. it was left over from when my friend did his old yukon. after, i flipped over the stock grill and noticed that it was the same under the finns, so i could've saved myself trouble of getting it to line up but, i was thinkin about the cooling

just wondering if there's any real difference with or without. it doesn't get past the eighty's here in the mid summer. just curious :cool:

i second that <-----pinned :biggrin:

could be a float needle too :shrug:

make sure the cylinder is clean and the o-ring groove. install the o-ring dry on the pipe, and then lube it. push strait in with a little umph instead of rocking it. then, shim your pipe mount(s) to clear the head. if the o-ring still won't slide in, use a half-round file, or die-grinder to put a make s bevil with a gradual angle (like 60 degrees) ti make the o-rings compress easier, but don't take off too much.

yah i guess i am looking at it like 2 problems, so i guess we need the situational info. did it happen all of a sudden on a ride? after sitting for a while? one, then the other, or was it baught that way? check the pickup gap on both sides of the flywheel, ohm the coil and stator, clean and sync the carbs, and do a compression test- the piston could have melted.

simply unplug it, cut it, or if that doesn't do it, cut the grey/yellow wire from the 5 wire plug at the cdi. replace the plug caps, and verify you're getting fuel to the right cylinder. a dead culinder has nothing to do with wiring unless you installed a rs flywheel it's either the cap, reed, or junk in your carb likely. is there exhaust coming out of the right?

check out the tors removal thread, it's funny, but good

yah, parking breake. it'll only let it rev to 2300 rpm. and what do you mean bypassed? should be removed/unplugged. box across from coil unplugged

i can't say either way, and you don't sound like an idiot, but i would by not asking simple q's could have something to do with the magnet in the flywheel, the cdi, or a funky pickup. it could run forever, or something could go catistrophically wrong next ride. personally, when i find something out of spec, i need to know why.

um, the yfz motor was built to turn high rpm's but not have a lot of low end grunt (essentially a de-stroker) a big bore raptor (660 or 700) is really what you're looking for, but.... if you're willin to pony up, then go with a stoker. you're past the bolt on stage (other than a cdi programmed for what you want) You could spend you money tryin to get a little here and there, but dounds like that would be just dicking around for you. if you go real agressive with the porting now, you'll need new juggs for a stroker. get with a shop, tell him what you want, and exactly what porting you have, and have him see you through to finish. a reputable builder can tell you what to run with his work and you won't be buying things now that you can't use later. he may be able to re- port your cylinders, depending on the porting now, for a 4mil stroker, or perhaps some power valve jugs with even more stroke. it really depends on how far you're willing to go

you may have a poor connection on one of the wires to the pickup and @ 24 the wire is in the right position to get good enough contact. or a bad capacitor in the cdi so that it doesn't hold enough juice for a full length spark when it's triggered at the right gap, but over 24, it isn't getting a good trigger. also would be the same condition if the stator windings ar partially worn, or a wire/ terminal is corroded or almost broke between the stator/cdi. this is assuming you get good blue spark of course. btw, how do you know the stator is good? check the wiring and terminals at the cdi

if you have an ohm meter, unplug the cdi wiring plug (the one with 5 wires/6 pins) and see if it reads between the black wire and the black/whit wire. if there's contiuity, you have a problem with the kill switch, tors, or keyswitch. next, check between the black wire and the frame/engine. it should have full continuity. next the red wire should have continuity with the ground with the key on, and none with the key off. check your spark plug boots for 5 ohms each. the last hing i would suggest is stand in front of it, pull out some money, and start throwing bills at it. it just makes me feel better. and your first post was really confusing, si i didn't reply, just fyi, if you want a good answer, ask a good question :thumbsup:

a little off subject, but are those vampires?

you cold bump the oil down a bit, maybe 40:1 mine was smoking and fouled when it got colder too. more fuel and less oil in the winter

dealer sells them. one is like 12 and the other is like 22. get the rear exhaust coupler. i tried plumbing coupler, and it melted, cus i couldn't find it in rubber. it looks like heater hose (1" i.d.) but it's higer heat, and woven all the way through. the rubber just helps it flex and seal. i just broke down and ordered it red label with my intake, cus i tore that too the same time i melted that synthetic thing. had to wrap and clamp a chicken selects box to get back to my truck. wish i could have took a pick before it smoldered off. my friend said all he could smell is ranch. beat that for scented exhaust! :yelrotflmao:

first place it will go is the crank, then the juggs, so i wouldn't even do a comp test or turn it over. pull the crank, spend a good half an hour or so thouroughly cleaning and inspecting the bearings on the crank alone. just make sure you get it all out

any chance you'd let me try it out? :biggrin:

damn it! now you make me wanna pull my head and get out the plexi.- been lookin for an excuse for both anyways

since alot of thevinizers know about connecting brown and red, you could run the G/Y wire from the parking brake to the black/white wire coming out of the key for those years installed. a thief could start it and try to take off by twisting brown&red, but not realize it'll only do 2300rpm. this would come into play when camping, or any other time you leave it unattended for a short time, giving you time to run out and kick his ass 90% of theifs work on opportunity, so why not even the odds with your own opportunity?

black is ground, black/white is cdi/kill wire(spliced with tors and kill switch) -don't connect. red+brown=good 2 go

wow, just realized how old that thread is