AKheathen

what he said/\ i was gonna mention the float bowls ant tank vent too. but seriously, i think everyone is tired of seein this at the top of the page. :: :shoothead: so, please read, laugh your ass off, make a snide comment to yourself, pm, or whatever, but no more posts i emplore

wow, you guys are great! how much for a set that'll be going into stock ports that are going to be trail or mx ported later? i still wanna run through some trial cages to see how i stack up, but imo someone willin to step up and divulge so much is definately in it for more than makin a quick buck off a bolt-on :beer: also, wondrin what for an older blaster? sorry if i hyjacked your thread, 05

is this just since it got colder? i don't know what climate your in, but i know that when mine is above 50 degrees, it usually starts one kick. when it sits a few hours in below freezing temps, it takes 4-8 kicks holding the choke out as far as it goes. sometimes i tap the carbs, not sure if it helps or not. point is, that colder air needs more fuel, and cold cylinders are harder to prime with cold fuel. check your choke tube and richen 1 clip

yes, but the gears will be a tad shorter, but mabey not noticably

i'm glad to hear you aking for pointers and doing researh before you get started. i too would like to get into porting cages, cus it's a nice place to start, and i don't have a lot of money to throw into trial jugs. reeds seem simple at first glance, but there are actually alot of aspects to consider. flow characteristics, geometry, and how it interacts and effects intake/ jetting ie. i'm sure there are alot of intelligent people on here that have made informed decisions while porting that should've worked great in theory, but didn't. so i'll ask the question again please can anyone provide pointers on your experienc with porting reed cages all i can advise is that it retains a good sealing suface, and simply bending the reatiners out is not a good idea. they have to retain a gradient curve from where they mount against the pedals. good luck :beer:

ok, to rule out the tors, make sure the box is unplugged across from the coil, the throttle switch, carb wires, and parking brake wires are all disconnected, and not touching. then we can focus on what else it could be :biggrin: would it rev up before you replaced the reeds? did it run good under load, or did you buy it this way? you check for good blue spark? are the plugs completely dry? floats adjusted right? does it rev at all, or does it die when you touch the throttle? check your harness for chaffed, melted, broken wires. the next thing would be the stator or timing plate

snow? sounds like you're too lean for the cold. can you drive it with the choke partially on?if it gets better in the 0-1/2 throttle, jet up. also, check real closelly for cracked rubber on intake, the cold is horrible for rubber. moove the carbs up/down & side-side while it's running, it shouldn't change

denso irridium :thumbsup: the irridium doesn't wear, so the tip of the center electrode is like 18awg allowing more air like side gapping, not to mention the spark energy

sorry, i don't get to the races where the amsiol guy markets, just ride for me and use products that sell themself. i run torco synthetic @ 16 bucks a quart, and so does everyone i know willin to pay that much. but that's trail, not track. the season is over, but i'm still riddin jim creek, and i'll check if there's still riddin to be had in sutton. do you know of any other good spots near anchorage?

actually it would stop sucking fuel out of the carbs altogether. so what could it hurt? :biggrin: go ahead and give it a go, and make sure to dump half a can of either down each tube to get it started. :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao: lemmie know how it turns out :shoothead: does anyone know where i can get an adaptor for a 1000cfm deMon carb on my shee? it worked wonders on my built up 454, but i just get the intakes to line up :: ::

wow that's wierd. is your caliper mounted on the front of the axle on your swinger? mounted on the rear of the axle(stock mounting) the bleeder is @the highest point. still, you could try to remove the bottom caliper bolt and loosen the top to kick the caliper out far enough that the bleeder almost points up and bleed it. then, compress the caliper and bolt it back on. make sure to leave the pads on when you do this and never pry on the piston itself (if you don't already know that they chip easy) put it back on, pump it up, then tighten the e-brake adjuster enough to apply pressure on the disc (the bolt in the back of the caliper, not the cable) and pump it up again. then back the adjuster back out a couple of turns so the wheels moove freely and they should pump back up to normal now. if not, you could have junk in your master cylinder from when it mooved beyond it's normal range :thumbsup:

i would personally use mag rods over epoxy and keep the flow rate conservative enough for heat transfer. too much flow rate doesn't allow the radiator to work well. idk what you want, but the stock stroke gives you mor high r ponnies, and the +4 yields more torque. at any rate, check out www.swaintech.com if you have time

dude, if you check the swap and shop, you nwould see how many people are killin off the shee by partin them out, and really nice bikes too. if you must get rid of it, sell or trade it off to someone who wants a shee. i'm sure you could find someone with a really nice raptor, or yfz 450 that needs the cash and wants to get out of payments. post a trade+cash and i'm sure you could find a 4 stroke worth 3 times your shee and every one's a winner, but please don't part it out :: >cry<

holly shit dude! u gotta teach me how to make my shit smell like roses

check your reeds

to give your riding foes the munchies so they bite it while thinkin about food

first off, your bike looks sick tnt and if you have to compress the shock to put it in, yes it does hurt the ball joints. you can fix this by bending the ends of the arms up untill the shocks drop in. make sure that the suspension travels up far enough for the shock to fully compress without binding on the ball joints. i'm installing fox clickers with remote rezzies @16.5" so i'll prolly weld up some new mounts on top and shim the stops.

torco gp-7. well worth it. if you get down to 0, run 40/1. it has sabilizers, in case you leave it for a few months with a full tank, you don't have to drain the old fuel. it won't separate at low temps etc..... baisically, a worry-free high performance oil. i was checkin out the castor everyone likes, tinkin of tryin it, and just laughed before i finished reading the bottle :yelrotflmao: i tore the intake, and exhaust joint on one side and ripped around for an hour that way, coming back, and no harm to the engine whatsoever. i still got a spare built, just didn't wanna tow it back outa that mess, anddidn't wanna stop ridin when i got back either baisically, i'm sold on the oil 100%, and so is half of alaska.

before i read this post, i was gonna suggest pullin 2 and makin the box taller, the subs really shine vented (nevr ported) but you could only run 2 at the minimum air space. the vents take alot more space than you would think, and are not part of the box airspace, hence ft3 + port. the port timing behind a seat could give you an anurism before you get it right (yes, i know i called it a port) with 4 sealed , the box will be on the small side, but you can fudge it with 10 wt fiberfill availible at fabric store for cheap. just try to keep it away from the vent holes, or the coils will get hotter than usual. i'll try to get pics of my setups on the comp. particularly the 4-12's blow through, and the crawl-through (2x L7 15's @ 12 ft3 vented)

you'd be better off with a raptor swinger, they look the same as the yfz , but fit better, imagine the banshee swinger, but the shock mounts where the dogbone attatches. you could remove the air bbox and change the spring, make a dog leg link, or cut, and weld a box into the swinger to clearance the link. you may have to pickup some pipe stock, or cut & weld the pivot from the banshee swinger to mount it. if you or someone you know is handy with a welder, it shouldn't be a problem, and the mods and welds, are in inconspicuous spots, so as to not change the appearance. the swinger is a little longer, and heavier though. not by much, just a heads up :thumbsup: p.s. get pics, or i will send seven stealth assasins :ninja: :ninja: :ninja: :ninja: :ninja: :ninja: :ninja:

try loosen up your caliper mounts when you pump them up, or even unbolt them. you can also get a speed bleader at the auto parts store(baisically a ckeck valve in the bleeder)

firs off, what is it? does it have exhaust mods- what pipe what can. is the timing/ ignition stock? intake? sounds like you don't have any serious engine mods, but it's not balanced. the stock exhaust will scavenge on the low end, and especially on decelleration. depending on what you have, you prolly need to go get a dynojet kit. i only glanced at the instructions, but they are specific to your engine, and tell what to use for whatever setup you got and then some. if i knew what you had, i could tell you how it should sound/run. also, make sure the air cleaner is clean. as for the fuel screw, you should run it out untill the idle is the highes and smooth, then turn it back in 1/4 turn. this is called the lean burn limit. don't be affraid of the word lean, it's just the term for where it's supposed to run on the idle circut.

if you ride like me, then you gotta learn to plant your ass more often, and further back. then have someone ride like you, and watch the tires to decide if they can hold the bead and take the abuse with lower air pressure. i also braapp the throttle alot to get a better bite. bbrrrappp, ba brappp brapp bra- ving ving ba brapp brap ving wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee!!!!!!! :woot: i'm using 22-12-10 bear claw's makin' love to da ground, but i gotta skinny up for the soft shit. wish i could find some good 24-9-10's on rim's

stupid kid this, stupid kid that- well... stupid kid is right. the floats ARE sticking. tap the bottom of the carbs with the but of a screwdriver and it should stop pouring fuel. they need cleaned out, so next time you get a chance, remove the float bowlsand clean them out with carb cleaner and check the float adjustment. if it runs good, and the throttle is smooth, then they don't need rebuild, just cleaning. as for the resivoir, idk what you can come up with, but make sure it picks up coolant from the bottom, and vents on the top, and it should be half full. mabey extra hose stuffed into the bottom of a 20 oz soda bottle? :shrug: