AKheathen

woo whoo! talk about back in the day. -rememberin growin up.....sigh- i thaught about searchin a luv out, but enough projets for now.

i would like some reed cages and juggs to practice porting, new tires, and nyuk to come through with som dirt cheap toomeys

man i had those studs on my xcsp and it threw a rooster tail of ice about 100 ft, but only helped on ice. if you stud your tires, they are just winter tires after that unless they are studable from the factory. i bet them geccos are pretty knarley in the snow

hmm... not ricky statr so far, i havn't heard of a good one over stock

i'm pretty sure, but i've been away from atv's for years, and in the automotive and heavy equipment and street racers so much that i might get mixed sometimes. for exaple, i havn't been in a mikuni much in the last 15 years, but plenty of carter, edlebrock, holly, and quadraget carbs, and forgot the needles run in the main jets, not the pilots. but electrical is something i never seem to forget for some reason, and everything is coming back in strides. so just in case, i would like to be corrected if i'm wrong

ohm your coil, check your harness, check your pickup gap, ohm the stator. check for continuity between the black/white wire and black wire at the cdi plug. check the brown and red wires at your keyswitch

if you gear down the primary, it lowers the rotational mass in the tranny, and allows you to run a smaller sprokett on the rear and slow the chain down. gearing up can allw for smaller tires like street radials to be geared really high without going extreme on the sproketts. i really have nothing to do with drag or dune, so i can't say there. if i am wrong in any way, i anticipate someone to chime in soon :biggrin:

welcome, everyone's happy to help her, but i warn you, you will be addicted to bansheeHQrack. that's awesome that you can pick the one you want, and learn to fix the other, so you will have more experience when working on yours :thumbsup:

no, actually the first ones are itp mud lights, which are moe of a "tear shit up in tight trails and mud holes" kinda tire. the kenda bear claws are what i have,(notice the proprietary lugs in the center) and i love them, but.... they are worn from ballooning. i asked the tire guy again today, and he was talking about the interco. super swampers, but when i looked into them, they had no lateral traction for "safety" i do alot of power sliding, but i also side ride on hills and i don't know how well they will hold for that. so, i went back to lookin at the vampires so i can strap the centers when and if they start balloon wearing, but i don't know if they'll let me slide enough over mougles, and after landing a jump sideways to make the next turn. too much side bite can be bad. i always say, if you found what you like, or works for you, stick with it, i get curious, and everyone on here says vamps, and everyone on the penninsula says super swampers. as for those kenda's, they look more like mud sports, or swamp lights, made by one of thier late subsidaries, and were replaced once the computor designing completely took over. they look nice and to have some mid-lateral traction, but are probably made of the same composites as mine, and would be suseptable to more ballooning and rounding. they would be great for tearing into the dirt, mud, trails, and ok on the sand, but probably only a season left in them, so save up still for an end of summer sale on some new ones.

they will bump you into a little more terrain than those mudders for a while, but they are still a lower speed tire and will balloon and wear in the middle after a bit. i have the 22/12/9 bear claws, and they're not completely worn out, but the lugs are rounding out, killin my bite. getts embarrassing when a 350 bruin keeps up with you in the snow untill a straitaway. best bet is to throw those on and save a couple hundred for something like vampires. the tire guy at work was talkin about another tire where he lives where the terrain is mud, marsh, dirt, gravel and occasional sand. i'm headed there now, so i'll ask again, cause i can't remember the name right now. this is the best pic right now

ok, compression is good, rulled out reeds, plugs, caps/wires, air leaks, and if the carbs aren't overflowing, and drain the same amount, them too for rue out. fuel comming out of the pipe says it's not burning at idle in that cylinder. the plugs fire at top and bottom from the nodes on both sides of the flywheel. if it is out of round, or loose on the shaft, one gap will be closer than the other, causing it to fire only on the closer one at low rpm's. this means that it only fires when the left is on top, and right on bottom. i have also heard of the magnets coming loose too. this, or a pinched pipe is about the only thing left i would suspect. if the carbs ran great and you had this prob before, then syncing them after install would have shown a problem with the cables/ slides. not much else to check

i can pay wed. went for broke on everyones christmass presents

unless you're running 18 or 19cc domes, that compression seems fine too me, aside from the fact that that it's even on both sides, which says good right there. did you check your pickup gaps?

yellow is high beam and green is low

quick q- if i port stock, install blaster cages, then,port them, do you guys have blaster cages designed for the banshee?

yah, their mouth quivers as they run :yelrotflmao:

more stroke gives more leverage on the crank which increases torque and compression. larger bore gives more leverage to the crank per amount of air, allowing it to rev higher without the piston/rod assy. countering it's efforts so much, which also means the pistons have to push many more times to accomplish the same amount of work. kinda like the differenc between a dump truck and a mini truck. a dump truc won't do 145mph, but can haul 10 times as much. at least that's the way i see it edit---> a better example, it's not uncommon for a 383 stroker to push 500 ponnies, but a 377(exact opposite-350 crank & 400 block) can turn 10'000rpms

check your plug caps, coil, and moisture in your stator area. pickup gap too

i think it was four or five years back that they got rid of the ethanol in alaska, and i immediately bitched up a storm, but what can you do to fight the state? you can get some av gas at merril field. bumped my 700xcsp up to 136 ponnies on the dyno @50/50

check your pickup gap on both sides of the flywheel and get that comp check

haha i don't see that as bein usefull on a shee unless you're riddin tight trails. for 800, you could just buy a 90's sled and have way more fun. then again, i've seen a sled with half a quad frame for a desert duner :shrug:

cut the wires, and splice as follows: yellow with red stripe is power; connect to yellow for high beam, blue for tail light, and i think grey is low beam. i like to use a heatshrink butt connector, or solder and heat shrink, if you're real good at soldering. wrap them up with electrical tape once you fold them up behind the plastics and zip tie them to the frame loop

i can't vouch from experience on them, but talkin with the guy, i was impressed. we were disgussing porting stock cages and he seemed more interesed in helping out, suggesting blaster cages and porting them, giving their experience info, etcetera, than selling me a set. don't get me wrong, vf3's are nice, but the're in it for the bottom line- proffit. chariot obviously has the passion and stamina to design the best possible, and keep goin at it. so i've decided, when i'm ready, i'm gonna go with them. it's like the difference of a gen 1 camaro ss, and a yanko (chariot) imo

21cc's, +4 timing, don't go any smaller, and get some exhaust

camshaft ........ just put it on the bench and por some oil on it. j/k. just run reg. coolant and "water wetter" or some other water adhesion promoter.