AKheathen

i vot debris in the float needle too-from when you drained it. when you have your carbs off, pull the plugs and kick it a bunch to make sure it's not loaded up whe you go to start it again

did you do anythingelse between the time it ran good, and when it started acting up? including a good washing. if it's dumping fuel, it's a safe bet there's some in the pipe. you'll have to clear that out and put new plugs in.

ok, sounds lean 0ff-idle. set your airscrews where it idles the highest, sync your carbs, and try moovin your needles 1 knotch away from the blunt end. when the pilot circut is right, it will want to idle with the airscrews between 1 and 2 turns out. that sucking air sound is the lean hesitation, and lean will make it near impossible to start as well. probably a good idea to give them a good cleaning too. and there doesn't sound like any problem with throttle overrun circut. it would either not idle, or only idle.

diggin the new avitar wesw :beer: on the top right of each carb, there is a little window (about 1/4" round) when you bring it up to wide open, silver dots should appear at the same time. if not, adjust the cables so that they do (push in the metal stem while you turn the screw) next, they should stop at the bottom at the same time. adjust with the idle screws. make sure the air screws are the same number of turns out, usually 1.5 turns out. i'm guessin that whoever put the pipes on, didn't re-jet it afterwards. find ou what they are and get back to us, or go to the website for aproximate jetting. but ther is probably a post in the jetting and exhaust forum that already answered that question, so do a search.

j/k yah, just don't get water in the intake or exhaust. and a trick i learned, spray it down with wd-40 after you wash it, and it comes clean really easy after the next time you ride

odg. no! it will shrink into a blaster :yelrotflmao:

just good practice, you'll know they're right and know instantly if one's in wrong. :thumbsup:

how cod is it? what mods? how hard to start? where are your airscrews set at? you may be lean for the temp. if so, move the needle 1 clip twards the point of the needle. but first, sync your carbs. and always resync them whenever you pull the slides out.

i'm guessin 290's are what u have now. you may have to go up to 310. do aplug chop to be sure. there is a pinned post in jetting and exhaust to show you how. you should do it on the other one too. being hard to start at 1/2 turn, u might go 1 clip richer on the needles and see how that does.

2mm @ 1 inch... and how many inches to the end of your bars? 13? 4mm@2", 8@4, etc. bars would be of angle at least an inch.

double nut... i have several wrench sets too, and all mising 12mm, WTF! ther must be a 12 mil. orgy somewhere. all i have is some cheap china 12mm and i'm not sure where it came from- mabey it's a hung- over snap-on i put my sets on the wall, so i can walk in, and say "hey! where the f's my __?" it worked ou great at my shop, and so i did it at home. it's easier to recover a tool when you know when it dissappeared :thumbsup: and someone is less likely to walk away with something that will instantly be missed.

human nature to shorten a mouth full.= case porting, case matching, port matching.....

check your pickup gap. and the ignition and light windings are completely separate from each other. ground check from your case to your coil an cdi too while you're ohming.

i go 22/12/9's on mine sittin @ 49" and it does friggin awesome! stock gearing and i'm power sliddin uver mougles in third, takes the tight trails etc. just fine. i started out slow, but found it ripps with great stability, and takes all i give it.

preperation, preporation, preporation! oh...and did i mention preporation? the surface must be completely clean, scuffed, clean, and dry. it can't just look clean, it has to be clean. you can't half-ass mixing it either. i've seen jb-weld misused more often than duct tape. it has to make a good bond with the metal. i rarely use the stuff, but always keep it around. it's a product that you have to have well founded confidence in, not blind trust. i've used it to replace threads in cast iron blocks, aluminum head, worn seal surface, tranny case crack, cam journal, list goes on. only because customer doesn't want to shell out to do it right, but has always held. bottom line, if you don't hink it will work, it won't. p.s. some cleaners leave a residue

fusor products, or lord adhesives. lord has been around for a while, and fusor id down right unbeliveable. you do have to go through the product sheets and find the EXACTone you need. ie. don't get pannel adhesive(it may hold 50,000 psi tensil, but it's not a filler.) look where they sell professional paint products. prolly just have it mag welded, and feel good about it. as for the die grinder, get at least 1/3 hp and i pref. pneumatic. if you have trouble feathering it right, just shove an earplug under the trigger and turn the air down to the fastest you want to go.

pull your pipes, check for alot of gas. how did u jet it? check your floats and slides/needles. could've loaded up with fuel. if so, you'll have to drain the crank too.

glad to hear it :beer:

yah, i'm pretty sure its bent back a little more than an inch at the top. i was painting the tank/grill plastics so i could see that there was no cracks yet. i gotta tear the front down to c-knotch and inner mount some longer clickers and make ressie mounts.... and who knows how far i'll go?

wiz man.. don't be such an instigator yah, if you read it a couple of times, you'll see that he's talking about case matching, but the way it's worded, the first thing that comes to mind, is port matching a v-8. i too thaught the same thing at first. stroker aint a bad guy and doesn't deserve a bashing. we're all trying to be helpfull here

look on the bright side- my frame is bent up there and my plastics/tank don't line up, bu my bars are great :thumbsup:

jb weld is actually the best repair, like welding. simply pull the pin out, clean the hole out wth brake kleen and scratch it with a pick. remove any protrusions, and fill the hole. put the pin back in, and wipe of any excess flush with the bore. let it set, and it's like brand new. jb weld is metal replacement that can be ground and machined. done right, it will be 100 times better than a screw, and you wouldn't have to risk messin up the slide bore when you trim and shape the screw, which would be a piain in and of itself. i know it sounds like super glue, or duct tape repair, bu it's not.

i feel dumb now. :shoothead: it's about time my fellings caught up with my mentality. could it be the rad hose leaking down the back side of the jugs? or the head gasket where u can't see?

drain the coolant, loosen and retorque the bolts 1 at a time, then tip the bike on it's ass, fuel off, throttle open to make sure none is in the crank, then, if it still leaks, you'll have to replace them. and make sure they're clean and scuffed. did you loose a dowel?

pretty sure it will, take yours with you