AKheathen

don't get me wrong, i love to go fast, and no stranger to dirt track and street racing but i also like to play. all i'm sayin is that the shee is a yfz, and replacing the frame with something else, is in the same boat as putting a shee motor in a raptor, or r6- no longer a shee for exaple, i don't refer to my lowridder as a truck, and when i'm done converting it, i will call it my drifter

i was thinkin they'd be fine 'till spring. tomorrow we have a high of 0* ferinheight, and my bike's tarpped with a heater to de-ice the carbs, killswitch, shocks, etc. i'm doin' the bottom end on the bonneville right now so, no garage space for toys :sad:

ok, you asked for it. this is something that has always bugged me. fully modded drag bikes. to be a banshee, it must have a banshe twin that you can play with. it needs front suspension, and body plastics. i've seen alot of roll cages with a seat, tank pizza cutters, and a twin, and otherwise restricted to a strait line and trailers. that's like callin a 2500hp alky funny car a muscle car. although nice, it's no longer close to what it was. mod it, and ride it :thumbsup:

about sea level, and i was ordering from jetsrus.com. those jets would be great :thumbsup:

my main concern is that the yamaha shop doesn't carry jets for banshee, and i'm ordering online, so i wanted to get close as i can for the temp right now (0 to -20) because i work 3 week hitches up north, and my time is too limited for multiple orders. my wish list was getting close to 100, and i can just buy more later, if i don't put different carbs on.

ok, i'm ordering jets, but don't wanna spend 50 bucks for maybeys'. i'm waiting on some fmf gold series (not fatties) temps between 80 and -20. trimmed & no lid. ported reed cages, and maybey +4 for now. i'm thinkin 27.5 270. 280. 290. 300. whatcha think?

to help stimulate supply, i am inclined to tell you to buy new, but, you probably be just fine with the used one. go to an auto parts store, and pick up a compression tester, and test all 3. hold the throttle open and kick it till it stops going up. should be around 120psi, and within 5 lbs of each other. if it checks out, you shouldn't need a rebuild any time soon

just my experience- 05 660r with dynojet needle/jet is torqy as a mother and really unleashed the beast. if he can grab gears, and hookup, you'll have to really practice, and pick a long stretch to get him.

payment sent

that ir could be up to 600ft/lbs. don't hammer it on, just rattle it on a sec, like an imprort lug nut 60-80 ft/lbs

ok, i disagree with both of you on this, and haven't really seen any letting up. if you want to know my stats, i have been to school for electronics after already having 4 years hands on experience building and repairing stereo equipment, built my first multi meter over 10 years ago, installed some of the first dvd/5.1 surround automotive systems, and more high end systems and lighting than i care to recall. i'm still doing alot of wiring and electrical configurations at work, and frequent o.e. terminal work. i am in no means trying to boast or call you guys dumb or inferior in any way, but i can see that you 2 are on opposite ends of the spectum in preference, not skill. first, loco- chill tf out- you have bread knowledge to 3rd grade behavior. i would not boast full force aggressiveness other than at a bar, or fighting event. the most impotant thing, is never put a high voltage output device in close proximity to a low voltage computing device. in ths case, it would cause a hall effect in the cdi, generating a spark scatter, and spark cancellation. next, never use a loose connection for a perminant fix, like twisting the wires together and taping or heatshrink to cover. the wire will develop contact deposits over time, maikint that part of wire less conductive, and i think it's a waste of time and materials. it doesn't take alot of skill to solder, just patience and moderation. if you want quick disconnects, you can just buy some male/ female connectors invariious shapes/ sizes with different insulating options. if you want a stock appearance, you can buy a genaric terminal crimping tool thatr has mix/ match sizes for wire, insulation, and weatherpack crimping. i use the deutch and v-mack tools at work, and a genaric small- gauge at home that does combo crimps, and runs 34 dollars. they do sell some cheaper ones, but if you don't work for a manufacturer, then there is no need to buy the brand specific tools for 99 bucks, although they are really nice :thumbsup: i would never attempt to desuede someone from doing something, but there is nothing wrong with pionting out issues and tribulations in your own experience. in my experience, many people have told me not to do something because it "can't be done" or was "too much work" and either prooved them wrong or realized it's alot of work, but not too much. i would encourage anyone to do the same if they are up to it, because you never know when someone can find a better way. also i would also encourage them to take everyones advice into consideration as well. after all, we are all here to either be positively helpfull, or seek good advice, and if you want to have it out, pm each other, instead of hyjacking someones' thread

cool, i'd like to pay shipping at the same time

do you taake paypal? are they 90's gold series or fatties?

are these good mid-low pipes?

ok, it's killin me, and no one has posted in a while :wallbash:

bump

imo 310 is a little big for a stocker. try dropping the needle a clip, and check for weak spark

just my thaught- worn baskett?

di he say that he had them boost ported? probably just looked into the intakes and saw the windows thinking that was something someone had done, because on sno-go's there aren't any wondows, but people have trimmed the skirts, trying to gain power. all that does is waste gas and cool your cylinders by increasing the initial charge, leaving less for the transfers. i doubt they were touched unless he said he had the windows modified. i wouldn't mess with the windows, because changing the height really messes with the port timing and width will weaken the piston. the only time i see this being done is when the guy doing the porting has a need to do so to complement the work he's doing, imo

ditto. imo making a jump from stock to high end drag pipes is wasting money, and useable power, without the engine work to compliment. i would first do a set of chariot reed cages, +4 timing, k&n filter, jet kit, tires, and shocks. do some research on all different kind of pipes and carbs, and buy those next month. then save up for the engine work and do your homework. in the end you are the only one who really knows what kind of power you want, and once you know what the different setups, ie. porting, will produce then you can ask for what you want, not just what sounds cool. so what kind of ridding do you do?

why is it that yolu need a new stator? can't you just float the ground, and rectify it for dc?

doesn't matter how big you are- i was the only person i know who didn't throw it up the first time i let the clutch out. and that's because the tire came off. that sounds like the one i rode. it was a guy from k beach area, and i told him that he got f'd by the yamaha shop, but he only trusts them. he was jetted way too rich, but would rather just keep putting plugs in. don't get me wrong, they are really under powered, but you sacrifice way too much by goin to a pipe for high end power

that's wierd it says 26, but i'm only counting 19

the black coating on the slides is supposed to be a friction coating. i wouldn't suggest lubing them because strait oil is to thick and may collect any fujitive dust perhaps pledge would work

so, what's wrong with the motor?