AKheathen

what? yellow is my fav. but i couldn't stand the red tank plastics, so i went to paint them black and once i had the black primer on, i thought it looked sick, so i left it matte black, but i'm not sure the fenders would hold up to any abuse without coming off, looking tacky. min's camo through yellow glasses :cool:

90 max here, then i'm headed to the airport for some avgas, but i'd rather be able to run 90

well i was lookin for a good deal that i can rework the domes, but 7cc's is alot of material to take off. i still wanna run pump

lol your post right under matts'

maybey if you weigh 75 lbs. usually only.51236444 seconds faster

those are the same ones that cat sells for their shit, but probably alot cheaper without the cat name and markup. how much are they?

lmao i guess tat's one for the "extra" parts bin, but does finnally remind me of one. i was helping mu friend put some teflon pistons in his f5 (arctic cat sled) i was working his domes with a dremil when he asked which way the pistons go in. i told him put the dots forward (no windows like a banshee) we went ridding and it was sputtering on the low end, then hit the powerband hard. iwas thinking "oh shit! did i fuck up the head?!" did a compression check and one was way lower, so we pulled it in a couple of days later. before then i was looking at one of his old pistons and noticed the difference in skirts on front and back. i called him up immediately and asked which way he put them in. "just put them in" sure enough the one was backwards, and stuck the rings. keeps up, and even beats some 800's now and it's only a 500 :biggrin:

in that case, i would deff check it again, perhaps you have a shorted wire or flywheel issue. did you replace with stock?

welcome to the hq :thumbsup: did you re-torque your head after a couple of cycles?. your radiator cap could be bad, and the float needle(s) could be leaking or need adjusted. you probbably loaded up with fuel a few times, and that pop was fuel igniting in a pipe. also, did you set the pickup gap @ 16-20?

not if there's no air leak

what r the dimentions? i have one that is 350cc already (2x6)

interested in intakes/tube shipped to 99516 do you take paypal?

i do understand that they are different in ways other than size, ie pipes, power valving, piston design, etcetera... but in every stage of my build, i will be testing it's effects in rideability controll, as well as for power loss, and running a tube, and plugs. right now it's too cold and i don't want to mess with the rubber intakes any more than i have to. i already had to replace one before my last ride because the cold and hard ridding tore it pretty good

lol, got me there :sweat: wathch your butt in there, and get a detailed explanation before you pay :thumbsup:

i have run them on sleds, and they do make a difference on a trail sled clutched @3000, and the cross-over made more of a difference on my 700 clutched at 6000. the only reaason it's even called a boost bottle, is because of the shared chamber working as a x-over on an engine that did not come with any sort of x-over from the factory. it does decrease the venturri effect over the sealed intake, slightly changing the fuel in part- throttle. so it's not just a "bolt-on" i remember a few months back, mj quoted experiencin this when he said that his throttle was crisper without it. i'm pretty sure that only about 5% of ridders on here would actually benifit from it, but usually the mod is to get a smaller drive sprocket for more controll in highly technical situations. i was just explaing how they work, and if i had some pillz right now, i would send you some to loosen up a bit.

after you check your reeds and compression, check you're stator and fly wheel. what do your plugs look like? you replaced them right?

i don't have experience in banshee transmitions, but in automotive and tractor aplications, it sounds like internal shifting components wore out so badly that 2 gears are engauged simotaneously, because there was too much slop to completely dissengage the first gear before engauging the next. or something came loose, getting stuck in the gears. either way, if the drive sprocket is locked without any amount of play, i would be looking internally

the boost bottle is a combination of a resonator and crossover tube, and btw, it should never have fuel in it. on larger bores, like sno-go's, it is a great improvement in rideability, but the x-over tube sends part of the return pulse to the other intake while on it's intake pulse. the point of a resonator bottle is to absorb the return pulse, dampening the double richening effect, and is supposed to be proprietary to a single cylinder. i'm sure someone will disagree with me, but imho, neither steups would make a difference in 1/2 to wot, just in technical ridding

x2 on that, timing will absolutely effect dynamic compression because the fuel is expanding sooner before it finishes compressing mechanically, but static compression will not change at all. purely mechanical influence. that's my 2 cents

imo no, dropping a 400 crank in a 355 to make a 383 doesn't change the montecarlo into something else, but turning it into a funny car does

take a look at the t5's in the for sale section. steel wool would take care of that verry easily

caloper paint is only for like400-500 degrees, but you always go for 3x what's needed. my friend did his tips on his tahoe and they went black in less than a week, and it wasn't just deposits, because we tried ckeaning it, and it was the paint that actually cooked. the best thing for chrome is #0000 steel wool, and some chrome cleaner/polish. no polish is going to hold up against heat because it's just a silicate. if you have it preped good, they can be re-chromed for like $50- or maybey cheaper where you're at. the higher the nickle, the better it will hold up against rust and schratching, heat as well. i belive a tripple nickle plating won't rust. if you want it simple, just polish real quick when you store it. i would throw some headder paint, or high heat engine enamel on the stinger pipes though. just my thaughts on the matter :thumbsup:

too bad, about the time of your first reply, some t5's came up for sale @ 250 shipped. i would jump on it, but i just baught some fmf's. all i've really heard is that t5's are great even if you're modding it, but the t6's are even better if you're keeping mostly stock. keep an eye on for sale and for trade forrums, because i've seen peopple modding that want to trade their t6's for some t5's. aside form that, the t6's are 50-100 bucks more. just a thaught :shrug:

holly geez, how much are domes?

2GU; 3GG, cub, cheetah, pv, etc. still banshee motor, if twin. i would call the first one a drag bike with yamaha powerplant. the second is an abomination when you can order an aftermarket camaro body, build a frame and put a motor in it, and still call it a camaro-based dragster. no need to hack a vauable piece for some exterior sheetmetal i have 69 firebird which is a rebuild, and a 67 that is so far gone that it needs to be modded. 326 4 speed original -no, that's not a typo or mistake like everyone tries to tell me; its a pontiac motor, not the chev 327. it really killed me to make the choice :: i guess i'm being overly passionate about it, but you asked.....sorry