AKheathen

the vac there, is utilized to run a high altitude comphensator valve, which applies vaccuume to the bowls at higher altitude, to lean it off. it could be oil injection, too. a fuel pump would have to be run from the crank to get a good enough pulse. what does it look like inside the bore?

for it to be an overflow, it'd have to drain from below the carb bore. otherwise, it's just a vent, or bowl pressure port, when used with altitude comphensation.

your pilots want to go bigger when the airscrew is that close to bottomed out. do a plug chop and get the mains dialed in.

a little momentum, and it will shoot up into the chamber. that's how we clear the fuel out of snomachine motors. pull the plugs, and pullit over as fast as you can and it'll shoot a stream of fuel out of the sparkplug holes. if there isn't na overflow in the bowl like stock carbs and it just has the vent lines, all the ful will drain from the emultion tube /pilot strait into the crank. once full, not much speed and it'll pump the fuel up through the transfers and pack the chambers. didn't he check the plugs before pull starting? i bet they were completely drenched.

that radius is what happens when you grind the gears, and a little play or wear and it'll start poping out of gear and get 10x worse. you just need to increase the degrees of rotation that the dogs will be open to mesh, but the more you doo that, the more innertiagoing from one side of the dogs to the other when switching to backloading. this is why i suggest cutting the dogs shorter, so it will help, but not be too much distance to backload. i think cutting them @ the right angle will be alot harder and require alot more precision than the traditional method of milling the dog off to a flat surface. if i had a spare tranny, i'd try to set up a jig to cut the right angle, and then slowly cut and mic to uniformity. then, find out how i can get the surface hardened. thaqt shit is a pita to cut. i had to do it once by hand on second gear in a pinch because the tranny had windows, and parts are at least a week out. supprised it's still holding up. i normally wouldn't do something like that, but it works good, plus the gear does seem a little easier to find. i ended up cutting 1/8" out of the windows and 1/16" off the dogs to repair the rounded off edges, so i added a total of 3/16" clearance. btw, on that gear, it only took about .025" difference on the fork to make it fall out of gear under load

hell yah, i want a 4 mill. i figure if i can pick one up for a good price now, then i can rebuild it when i have more money in oct. and not have to search one out

wait, what's this "king of the north" bs? i'm above the arctic circle right now :yucky: neener, neener, nee-ner

nice goin. :thumbsup: I didn't think you'd tacle it so quick. i'd immagine you heat the aluminum around the steel spigots somewhat quickly and turn them so it cools and seats back tightly. i still think you may encounter float problems running gravity feed.

cool beans.... what's happening to the old crank?

timing with the throttle, but i suppose yopu could have the shift drum modded for neutral all the way down. i can see you also hitting neutral by accident if you downshift alot without counting what gear you're in. thre might be a drum mod that helps while keeping the same sequence, but changing the timing a little. i just clutch it real quick when it happens :shrug: anyone know of someone who can just widen the dogs a little, instead of cutting every other one out? i think that would be the key to making it shift easier, but still hold up to backloading on a trail bike.

daaaaaammmmn! i can see someone smokin a bowl and trying to figure out the tool thinking " this is gonna be sooooooooo fast!!!"

the grease will get in the bearings, and keep the carrier sealed up

25 all years

did you get water in there?

the reason they are outlasting the stockers, is that you are using timken t-roller bearings (good manufacturer) and keeping them greased. they don't stick because aluminum is soft and doesn't rust. if you want the bling, go for it, but you can usually get a stockker with pretty fresh bearings/seals for 50 and i've3 seen alot with grease zircs added to the carrier, which is not hard to do if you have a drill and pipe tap. check nyuk on here. or peruse the for sale section.

your gears/dogs are just staying locked in like they were designed to do. simply blip/studder the throttle, or use the clutch to relieve the gear load during the shift.the shift star mod simply makes it easier to move the shift drum with the lever, but will not help with loaded gears, and the shift shaft mod also makes the lever easier to move, but again, unloded movement. you can shell out some real $$$ for an override if you need to keep it pinned and shift, but that's a comlpetely reworked drum and gearset, and doesn't like much backloading. i've decided that it's not for me for that reason, and blipping/clutching works just fine

ok, for starters, the blue wire goes to the voltage regulator (silver box) and you'll blow bulbs without it. all you need to do to disable the tors is unplug the little black box under the tank and it's completely disconnected from the whole system. removing all the related wires just cleans it up nicely. ok, test, starting @ the cdi plug by the brake light. with the key on, and killswitch in on, you should get continuilty between ground (black wire and frame/engine) and the red/black wire. no continuity with the ground and black/white wire. (kill wire) next, test the red to green and red/wite to green/white. you should get about 100 ohms, and like 16-20 ohms. i don't have my notes with me right now. then, check your pickup gap. should be .016-.020", or buisness card thickness. as stated, check for melted wires, especially by the airbox, and bad grounds. you did have a tors problem originally...

sounds like you have boysen dual stage reeds, not stock reeds. the stock ones seal right against the cage rubber. those little pedals give the reeds bore bottom end flow with les resistance, and the bigger parts are reeds that open mostly at higher flow rates

yup, i was in too much of a hurry to find or buy another bottle of locktite. let that be a lesson to ya :thumbsup:

the thing about the firmware is like an update for the connectivity support. plus, a couple features anyone can use. i barely did anything with mine, but it was nice to unlock the router/boost signal and tweak a little, which anyone can do. the unit itself is pretty shitty in manufacturing, but i believe i remember the firmware fixing the problems like ps3 compatibility, among other things.

probably start with 27.5 pilots and 240 mains. what's your elevation/temp? you're running stock pipes, right? check the float bowls. the chokeside bowl should have a little brass bead in the outside facing the cylinder.

there is a little spring clip that wears out under that rubber boot, but i havn't heard of anyone being able to find just the clip.....

340 main when 1000ft+ no lid, k&n proflow, stock carbs, NO AIRLEAKS. the pcp's can be fuel hungry. 350-360 asl. i need to design a high flow snorkel.....12" water or more, and i'm almost sure to be sucking water and fighting runaway carbs

and dave knows they vibrate....

looks like it's time for me to make the thread like i was planning, but for now, you can check out my album with the pics in it. that guy has a cockand balls on his nose and doesn't even know it :biggrin: i got more than 5 degrees safely by doing it right, but set irt @ 5. if i remember, 4mm gets you more like 4.4 degrees. here ya go---->my pics