AKheathen

i would start with 330 mains, needle in the middle, 25 pilot, airscrews @ 1.5 turns from seated. get her warmmed up, and do a proper plug chop, then play with the needle if the mid throttle has issues, and airscrews to get the off-idle operation. less than 1 turn on airscrews, increase pilot 1 size. more than 2.5, go back down. syncing really helps it to run good, too.

oh, yah. no boost bottle, unless you want to mute the throttle response (snap) a little. other than that, they do nothing for power, and tend to rip the intakes.

you, my friend, really need to talk to a builder to get you setup. check out some of the sponsors, because whoever ports your engine can tell you which parts to run with it to make the most power, which is better than trying to piece it. any coolhead with replaceable domes like a "noss" head, or compatible will be your best bet, because you can change out different shapes and sizes, and that's the most common platform. sounds like you are looking for a powervalved cylinder setup. if you check the for sale section, fastthroug has a killer deal on a 4mill stroker with ypvs system complete, or parts, which i would personally buy if i had the cash on hand right now. then match the pipes, carbs reeds and timing to the cylinders and you are set. right now, the 2-1 carb setup will get you some bottom end, but they kind of lack on top.

no, there still is a little dump tube in the bowl that bypasses the drain screw when the fuel is too high. back to float adjustment :thumbsup:

http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=119493

these will work...there are alot more for alot more$$$ on ebay.

i want that clutch lever. pm me paypal info so i can buy it. good prices

x2. so... you are running the lid, and snorkel? -2or 3 sizes

hmmm.... i have a 583.......

water in pipes?

i'm almost certain you are lean on the mains, unless you are running the snorkel, 2000ft, and100+ degrees, then i could believe 220 may be close. if you are in a higher gear, you can hear the difference, but not feel it if the mains are lean.

gouge the crack with a hack saw , thin file or even serated steak knife. then, flush the tank/crack if all fuel. next, cut the ear off, and soften the plastic by applying lacquer thinner to the crack, and letting air dry, while you mix up some plastic epoxy. make sure it's chemical/fuel resistant, and repair the crack, making sure to get the epoxy all the way through the crack. now, make a new mount out of folded sheet metal, one layer against the bottom, and the other overlaping the crack on the side, and epoxy to the tank. if you leave the cast ear attatched, it's almost sure to crack again.

don't forget to check which bowl you put on that carb. you need the one with the choke jet in it. there is a little brass bead on the outside of that bowl

ok, a little late, i guess.. but, look up dd-wrt, and replace the firmware. you will be able to do 100 different things, including overclocking, signal boost, gaming optimising, etc. it doesn't have psp support on the version i'm running right now, but it's a cool thing to play with. that router is kinda skimpy, though, so you have to run the miro firmware, and mind the heat if you wanna push it. funny thing, the dd-wrt firmware is based off that router, and made to work with many different routers.

the shaved head. also, i believe there was something you had to do about the floats when switching the carbs to gravity. probably just adjustment. maybey you can pull the emultion tube and see where the fuel level comes to on gravity feed. :shrug:

also, make all adjustments for operating temp, not on a cold running engine. do a plug chop to verify the mains, first.

you should be in the 320- 350 range with no lid on the airbox. on these pipes, you need to get the mains, then needles, then airscrews dialed in to tell you which pilots. they tend`to either like 27.5, or25 on the pilots. do you run with an airbox lid or snorkel?

yes. give us your elevation, outside temps, airbox setup, and we can get you close

the chambers should come out to just under 21.8cc's. i would havethem rechambered and milled a little more, personally. i ran 20cc, pushing it with stock timing and 91 octane, and a low-mid setup, but now, i'm @ +5 timing running 95oct safely, not worried about high reving it. 21 with advanced timing is generally the safe pump limit, on stock stroke.

yah, if you are running stock compression, you should be running 93 octane, or the fuel won't burn as well, and act like your rings are fried. what size domes are in the chariot head?

if i remember correctly, it's exactly 4" (100mm) :biggrin:

i can tell you that those pipes generally like 27.5 pilots, for starters. first, do a plug chop. you can find out how by researching on this site. you are probably lean on the mains/needle. start with the mains, airscrew @ 1.5 turns from seated, and play with the needle to get the 1/8-3/4 throttle range running good, then adjust the airscrews for idle and off-idle operation. i'm sure it's all in the jetting.

generally, i use a impact driver on any and all screws. even helps with previously stripped screws. then, i just loosen the screws enough to tap the pickup to speck, and it doesn't move when i tighten it back down. to each, their own. i guess.. :shrug:

do some research on this site, build a leakdown tester, to check for leaks. ohm the stator and ground/power circuit. have you replaced the plug caps/wires/coil? the coil is a pretty common one, so if you have a good used one off a sno-go twin, that should work. the plug caps are cheap, and do go out, acting funny in different ways. are you jetted properly? any other recent mods?

the vibration of the engine mixed with bouncing around the trails, and up/down/sidehilling would make it suck bubbles without them. the vibration alone, while the jet is sucking could create a cavitation effect, if the fuel wasn't dampened by that little chamber.