AKheathen

because, you do loosen the screws to adjust

oh, damn, any way you can bump the deadline back to like sep. 10? i'm stuck up @ work untill the 2nd, and i've got some great ideas...... out on a boat... the fair is coming up... the roof...etc... just need a week to get it done.

idk, he was a hellofa lot funnier than killa, imo.

what? you're worrying me, snoop......

don't think jeff was talkin about you....... and, i click on the direct link on the pic, it automatcally copies, and then i just paste it by clicking the add image icon, here.

check the float bowls the one that goes on the choke side has a little jet at the bottom where the pickup tube slides in. also, there is a little brass bead on the outside of that bowl, in the same area as the jet.

be carefull with the octane on those domes. try your different timing curves in the cdi first, and see what you like. i just have my plate @ +5 over stock, and it makes for killer midrange and decent low, with 20cc, pro-circuits, boysen dual stage reeds, and 95oct, fuel @ 40:1. if you can find a curve that doesn't advance the higher rpm's (7500+) but advances the lower and mid rpms around+4-+6 over stock, that would be a good place to start, but just play with it to see what you like. hope you have a good clutch..... i'd advise some hd springs soon. my clutch isn't holding, and i'm still on stock porting, too.

valdez, AK? what's your name? might know you. hit me up, i can prob. help you out.

dude, what's this about your pickup? verry important piece of info!!! 90% sure that was the prob, not the stator. 10% on the flywheel. that pickup needs to be locked down squarely, or it will vibrate out of spec @ certain rpm's. stator looks fine from the pics, althoug i cannot see the connections. mine is worse, and runs like a champ. DECON- that is a jetting issue "hesitates mid throttle" do the plug chop to dial in mains, and then move/ change the needles to get rid of the mid throttle hesitation. VOLCRANO- not to be a dick, or offend, but you seem to be getting really sold on his issue being your issue. would be nice, but probably not the case, and you're loosing time to get solving your problem. best thing would be to start a new thread with your pertinent info, and help will come your way much easier. one difference that sets you apart already, is that you can still run good while in the pipe, which could point tward things like being compression/reeds/fuel related.... i would like to apologise in advance if i sound like a dick today, as i am tired form just rolling on to nightshift, and pissed off already from political b.s. @ work last night/thismorning. hey, whittey- don't toss your old stator. :biggrin: i'll chat with u later...

good luck, o.g. I don't believe the size exists. >25 only goes in increments of 5, i believe. i do have 20 and 15, though. what u need that small for, anyways?

start with gm 1/2 ton pickup, then fullsize car, then compact. one will fit fine, and would be the cheapest (price wise) and most readily availiable. or, try toyota/nissan 4x for a male thread

spray some penatrant and let it soak 5 min. then tap where it's stuck with a piece of wood, or something and pull at the same time. sometimes, taping it further on first helps lot.

basically, the higher the octane rating, the slower the burn. higher compression makes it burn faster, and advanced timing makes it ignite sooner. too much octane for the cr, and timing, and you will only burn partially, and with less force, which is safer than burning too short, leaving heat to build up in the chamber, or rather, on the chamber surfaces. best thing is to find your actuall compression ratio and go from there. squish is the clearance between the top piston edge and the chamber. squish is what happens when you step on a bug, squish is what happens when the f@#%n airline seats you between 2 oversized individuals squish is what you do with solder when you are checking your squish.

just go down to the parts store and match up some automotive tie rod ball joints to the spindles. they are cheaper, easier to find, greaseable, and i know they work. i just can't remember the p/n.

why would anyone want a virgin? :biggrin:

avgas also runs ALOT more gooder @ 1000ft+ :biggrin: you do need a compatible premix, or it will separate. if you have issues buying avgas, just tell them you have an ultra-lite. (seat, engine, prop, hanging from a parachute) i buy it right at the pump, in a light industrial are

also, check the sproket hub. mine just wore out enough to slip on the splines sometimes, in 1,2,and 3. it was a little loose before, but now it's blatently obvious that it's shot

it's concidered part of the carb body. if it's falling out of the outside, then you can tap it back in 'till it seats, and use a flatened chisel or punch to knirl the edges to hold it in, like it was done originally. it would help if you can get some epoxy in there before you punch it back in. which carb is it?

sending pm....

are you kidding me? what size are they? i need 28's or 30's. i've got nice, taken care of stockers, with extra parts and no tors.

clean and oil your air filter. when you pull the lid off, you have to re-jet, or it will run lean. the lid also holds the filter in place, which is why it got more air, as well, from the air going around the filter.

i just need junk stators to practice re-winding. just giving you the specs on how to test it. :thumbsup:

hey, i'm trying to get some better handling on hill climbs of all kinds. a couple people said stock pretty much, but fail. i need to go over some1ft or bigger rocks sometimes, and step-ups. i've got ideas about arms i'm gonna build, and maybey bring the front wheels back a little and rake more? rear- higher/lower? +2? i have a mid/low setup with more than enough power, kenda bear klaws 22/12/9 @1psi, 14/40. I can climb 45 degree slope in 3rd, if i can handle the terrain, but, like i said, handling is an issue. any tips and experience will be helpfull. no sence having power if you can't controll it.

well then... i want your old stator if you junk it. first, ohm it. red and green wires=13.7-20.5ohms red/white and green/white= about 100 ohms

and which fmf's. there are 4 in the gold series