AKheathen

odd....it must have to do with the timing. when i ran 100, then went down it was after i set it to +5.5, and pulled the mid a bit harder. of course, I'm using av gas, which is formulated to atomize differently

x2. count the turns to unscrew the outter from bottomed, then bottom it out in the inner one, and back it out that many turns and screw the outer back on and go from there

wtf? they cut the sleve themselfs? that's not right. and they can't just fill the problem areas. i would not let them touch it again, except to exchange for a new cyl.

are they chiped/frayed, or just gapped? you can flip the petals, if gapped

i actually run 20's, pro circuits, and +5.5 on 95 with stock porting and no deto. pulls hard as hell in the mid. yeilded less power with 100oct.

did you check the gap on both sides of the flywheel? could be outa round, is what i'm gettin at.

haha, he is a product of addiction.

also, a pic of the left pipe would help distinguish between fmf/toomy

check your pickup gap on both sides of the flywheel, check reeds, and make sure the exhaust is clear. you have the stock flywheel? was iit ever removed without using the right flywheel puller?

21's are fine and you can even add some timing, on stock stroke/cyl's

i thaught wsm was a cheap wiesco made product, like vitos pistons. i was wondering about the platnum pistons, too. anyone know of a coated lr piston?

oh jeeze, 250 is real small for having pods and pro-circuits. what's your elevation and ridding temp?

nope

retarding 5 degrees gives you more top end. the stock plate isn't adjustible. clockwise to advance, and visa-versa. advancing will give you more midrange.

clean your carbs out real good, especially the emultion tubes an air jets. (the tube the needle slides in and the little jet/passage in the opening of the filter side of the carb) idles/ starts fine, right?

could be the shift lever bent and stuck behind the pegs on the shift star. i would check that first.

how much for that bad stator? it's not bent up is it?

first, unplug the little black box under the gas tank, to the left of the coil. that will completely disconnect the tors circuit. next, it sounds like your e-brake circuit is faulty. unplug the ebrake wires by the steering stem coming from the clutch lever. it envokes a rev limiter not much above idle. (2300rpm)

sounds like the jetting was still off. what other mods did you have? reeds/porting/timing?

well... since you already have it ported, and i'm not sure what an argo port is, you should talk to the guy who did the porting. if he doesn't have experience porting for 4 mill, then get the specs and talk to a builder who does, like fast. it's more about port timing and clearance. the transfer and exhaust timings need to be on the right ratio from each-other. and the extra 2mm of upward stroke needs to be relieved by cutting the domes/chambers, or spacing it upwards. if you use the spacer, then the timings will both be increased, and if you clearance the chambers, the timings will be decreased. the ports do need to be dropped on the bottom to open the restriction, but an experienced builder can work the ports to yeild the appropriate power and efficiency

me too. thanx. can you tell me what paint you used?

x2. if you have a fouling issue, this plug will not do anything, if not make it worse. problem being, it has too many paths to choose, not keeping them clean unless it fires from one point all the time. however, it may help shield from spark blow-out with the obstructive electrode design. for pouling resistance, you want a small center electrode as found in platnum and iridium plugs. the irridium properties allow enough strength for sizes ranging from .7-.4mm in an open element. also, it has the highes conductivity properties through the core of the material leaving less resistance for the electrons to flow once the surface of the metal builds resistance from deposits. the platnum electrode is nearly as conductive, and has 2x the wear life, but is verry britle, and would not withstand any deto shock. on the E3 plugs, they are just a cheap plug with a new design, and cannot be gapped, but there also is many more factors in the design that may or may not work well/better for alky use. they shouldn't do any harm, using the proper heat range, and do not cost much, if you can find the right ones, so i say give them a shot or 2 and see what you come up with. oh, and o've only seen the bosh +4's perform like total garbage in larger motors, but they do look purdy....

TTT

hey...... what's up? any info on shipping parts out? it's been a month... please respond....

does it actually shift, or just feel like it? maybey the shifter fell off the star pegs, partially binding. the shift arm has a spring on it that returns it otherwise