AKheathen

actually, it fires up pretty easy, damn near 1/2 kick with no exhaust, and if you are already running alot of fuel, it will rev. after all, the modern exhaust is relatively new to 2 stroke engines. what i was getting at was that a stuck ring can act like no ring, and i can see some gapping in the cylinder......enough to warrant new pistons/bore, which would require some dynamic kicking to turn much compressoin at all, ringless.

hell, i'm going to run a conventional lockup for real technical trails/woods. it's not all about puttin 100 ponies to the ground. you can still clutchit when needed, slip it when necisary, 2nd launch and whatever abuse you'll come across needing to get through the nasty stuff. i'm under 50 right now, and can tear through whatever clutch is in there without a lockup. tall gearing you might use if you gear your power twards midrange can smoke it, too. i can lift the tires in 3rd on pavement and have my power overlapping gears, so i don' need to shift so often, which can kill your ride. you can also change out the weighting to change the rpm which it locks more pressure. just sayin......a lockout isn't out of the question, except the slingshot style. not sure you can overpower that one easily....

let me put it @ you like this- the stock timing curve ranges from +17 and down to, i think, +9. so, you're not actually runing a - setting, just less than stock advancement. and, not many talk about the - timing as much as the advanced timing, but it actually helps with power in the topend, but most people want an increase in the midrange, which is where the advanced timing comes into play.

haha, that's some funny ass shit there. i've run some imports, including toyota and nissan, as well as modding some "mopar based" mitsu's, but one thing that has never changed is how i laugh @ over 90% of honda's that think they're fast. intake, exhaust and fuel still won't get them anywhere. they can only start making power whith extensive engine work to bring them up to par with every other compact. after all was said and done, the z24 is still the baddest fwd compact off the line. intake, tuned exhaust and governor delete will get you under 10 seconds easy. once i get my powerplant outa my rolled z24 anddrop it in the toasted sunfire gt, i'll be back to spanking hondas in no time.......what a waste....

haha, no kidding. a Z24 would dominate that little crx with minimal effort, and keep you in the compact tuner slot.......but that skyline has me wet inplaces i didn't know existed. i've always wanted the gtr33 skyline. so, how much did it cost?!?!? does it have to have that "us import approved" on it for me to get it here? i see a white one i really want, but only saw a couple old colletors with that logo.....

it's always a posibility.....when using more current than you would ever need to simply weld a muffler......that aside, you normally only blow the heater controll because the blower motor is dragging down and pulling too much current. now, your whole system is databus conntrolled, which includes the radio, tranny and powertrain modules body, and abs. don't ask why they put a moduole on the transmition or the powertrain next to the radiator, but the wiring can be suseptible to te increased heat off the exhaust, not to mention slag damage burning a wire or 2.... may be behind the dash too. it sounds like a speaker wire could be shorting on something. definately reconnect the wire to the lockup solenoid; it's used for braking the engine between upshifts as well as locking up in overdrive. usually a problem there woud be not disengaging after a while being locked up, and also will disengage simotaneously when the egr activates to assist in exhaust cooling, having nothing to do with the lockup circuit itself. you really need to have it read by a techII or similar and look for event codes to get you closer. did the radio thing start around the same time as the heater? if so, those 2 are separate from the other problems and would totally change where to look for the issue.......

well, with option 1, you can probably build a better crank than buying new, even have it cryoed..... i'm goin with option 2, then 1, since it's gonna be a 4 mill....so, it's not coming apart untill i have the new setup ready. not terribly impressed with hotrods bearings.

idk.....the cylinders do look a little waxed..........did the rings pop out of the pistons any, or did the pistons slide right in when you put the jugs back on? the oil tells that the rings aren't doing their job. you could get almost the same with no rings. they might be stuck. either way it looks like it needs a fresh bore from the pics. oh, and the metal gasket looses it's spring after the first heat cycles, so use a new one.

...now, here's the dilemma- diamond plate and treated/coated wood is nice and lasts. however, it's horrible for automotive due to the fact, that it gets slick as shit with any fluids. @ my shop, i only ever ran raw wood and expanded steel. still do. oil will soak in/through and let tires and shit keep sticking, and expanded steel will let it right through. i don't know about you, but i don't like washing the deck all the time....especially in the winter. just some food for thought....

well damn, i should scrolled all the way down the post. nice price on that crank.......

well, it all tepends on how the trailer is framed. i did my little trailer with 2x12's welded in and it's strong as hell, but it needs the support every 4-6' to last. 3/4 plywood would work good, too. if supported.

catually, the ignition windings will light a test light really bright with one medial kick. i tried it last year out of sheer curiosity when a guy didn't have a meter.

i always hear everyone say to just leave the coushins out. if you have an anvil/vise, or something real solid to beat against, (mabey concrete) beat just the ball with a 3-4# hammer against it. the shock/flexing should make the ball separate from the rod without bending it. neat trick i came up with to knock nuts out of impact and regular sockets. they pop or fall right out. i definately wouldn't make the adjuster any shorter. and, there is a hell of a steal in the f/s section here on a pancake bearing. $25 and it'll never weld again. or you can have a almost brand new one for 35 shipped if someone already baught that one. i don't need it anymore.

either you have an airleak, or your idle is set too high. when the airscrews, pilot and needles are set right, you will need to use the choke to start it. i can tell you that you are too rich. screw your airscrews in untill they seat, and back them out 1.5 turns to start with. bring your idle screws down 1/2 turn and try to get it warmmed up to operating temp so you can adjust. make sure there is a little slack in the throttle cables, too. you don't want tension there. once warmmed up, adjust the airscews 1/4 turn @ a time, waiting 20-30 seconds for the idle to change, untill it reaches the highest rpm, and bring your idle down to where you want it and repeat. finally, turn your airscrews in another 1/4 turn and let it idle. next, spray carb cleaner around the intake boots (between the carbs and cylinders) and around the cylinder sealing surfaces. the idle should change if you spray on an airleak. moderately pry the carbs around while you're spraying the rubber, too as it will open any cracks in the intakes. if you don't find any leaks, take it for a spin and see how it runs. don't get tooo exited to rally around and fininsh tuning it later if you notice any hesitations, as that would indicate lean and posibly do damage. read up in the jetting section about plug chops, syncing and knowing when to jet.

damn bra. i'm just asking a simple question so i can take time out of my buisy life after 12 hours @ my high paying job, to spend some of my abundant money on a set of 28mm carbs that became availiable once your deal fell through. sue me. second, you need to understand that bhq is a community, not ebay, so reputation and integrity mean a great deal around here. for that reason, it IS everybody's buisness to know the truth once accusations are made, so get over it, or shut your trap before you start talking shit again if someone isn't up to par with whatever deal you might be lucky to make in the future. GODD DAY SIR!

i think jeff has all that....probably even cheaper, too

put it in gear. you can use an impact driver which is 10-15 from harbor freight or online. i know rmatv has one. part # 1145050001. or, you can use a breaker bar and smack it with a hammer while holding pressure to unscrew it. if your stator ohms out within specs on the lighting, ignition, and pickup, and you aren't lighting up a bulb tester on either coil, then it's most likely the flywheel. if you need the puller asap, yamaha has them in stock and it fits other yamaha flywheels as well as some other makes. do you have the ohm specs?

oh hell.... how 'bout the clutch in there too. thanx.

send pics to [email protected]

got any pics of the rear brake hub? interested in the sealing surface and splines. thanx

.......... .......not to rush you, but i'm passing up a couple deals on pancake bearings, and you havn't given me the chance to even buy it yet. one is 20, but it's older, and i'm not one to back out on a deal. keep me posted please.

what's the best you can do for the case saver, pipe hangars, water pump, pump cover, and thumb throttle shipped to 99516?

.........and I thaught the exhaust was more like 178. my notes are on my other laptop,ad i'm waiting on the rest of the parts to fix the mb......which reminds me- anyone know the distance from the deck to the top of the exhaust stock? i need to re-calculate my cr without tearing my topend apart, so i can pick the right domes for my 4 mill.....thanx.

no, i'm not gonna cut down a port in a piston and make it weak. i'm looking inot my affordable and less time consuming options for coated lr pistons, and all i can find are these- pistons. will the extra porting help/hurt the mid/bottom. seems like it might decompress stuffing pressure @ lower rpm's. any input would be helpfull. i also might have the option to throw some stock rods on my hr 4mill crank. think they would hold up?

what was the deal 370?