AKheathen

don't worry too much....ricky stator and RM stator are 2 different companies, although we are stiil waiting to see if the company prooves unreliable since they are relatively new. so far-so-good

i would say to go up 3-4 sizes from your current jetting, but, since you were jetted by a dealer, start with 340 mains, if you are below 2000ft, and richen your needle. pro circuits can be fuel hungry, and sometimes not....

well, i suppose there is no helping you if you would rather choose a pipe based on how loud it is, rather than one in your power range, and i already told you how to make any pipe loud....

no need to mess with the timing. the greater mass is countered by the lower volatility of the fuel

if you want to mix to 95 octane, 20cc and +4 to +7 timing will yeild a bit of umph for ya

you are going to have to clean the carbs, one @ a time, so you don't mix parts. the fuel leaking is from the float sticking, or the float needle not sealing

br8

first, make sure the cable is not too tight. you should be able to push the lever on top of the cse tward the cable and feel it hit the release. the best thing would be to upgrade to a fast clutch, and use 3 hd springs or 6, depending on how much power ou are built for. the cheapest, reliable clutch is the tusk clutch. don't reuse worn out springs. check the hub and basket while you are in there

mothers is for cleaning and will give you that nice new billet look with lots of hard, time consuming work, which will be destroyed with a finger print or drop of water. i found this high silicate compund called metal clean...i think it'd douglass, not sure. with whatever polis, you grind it in with your finger/rag and buff off. repeat a couple more times, wipe the last time and lightly buff with a real soft cloth, like tee shirt or softer. buffed on the wheel with the compund is the most durable longes lasting polish job, though.

http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=122543&st=0&gopid=1065374&

15 degrees is a little excessive..... between 20-30 depending on humidity differences....

no! no! no! NO! don't ever use an airhose in a filter, exept fom the inside, with verry little force at a distance when knocking the stuff off. ither than that, it jamms all the debris in the gause perminently and can blow little holes in the gause. restriction in the fillter will richen your jetting up. you should be able to rip the outterware off and shake the dust if it gets clogged while ridding. just use the velcro, clean real good before sticking, and staple the velcro on...stock pilot is 25

possibly, the plates are just sticky from sitting.........if it doesn't get better, then it's most likely the clutch basket worn

hey man, go for it. i don't see the problem as long as you keep it sealed good.......just put an outterware on it or it will load up with tons of shit

it's normal for the clutch plates to stick a bit like that. give it enough force, and the tires will roll. only worry about that when it lunges foreward and creep with the clutch pulled in and running in gear. the gear clunk i don't know about. regular gears clink and grab just a little when you stick it in first with the clutch pulled. if you rev it up alot to take off, the lockup will do it's job and grab real well....

the question is-what fuel are you willing to run. and you want smaller domes for more power....

depending on your porting and which fmf pipes, you will most likely be in the range of 300-350, and almost certain 27.5pilot. start with the 350 main and work yor way down if it sputters on the top. start with plug chops once it runs deccent on the topend wot. cold temps will require larger mains,as well

didn't you get the memo.....loud=cool

if you plan on doing engine mods such as porting and stroke, go with the pro-circuits. if you are probably not going to do much internally, then go for the p[aul turner mids. the pc's are pretty badass sounding, and you can build a stinger tube to inset in your silencers, that match either of the pipes, and it will be loud without sacraficing much performance

x2, the 7500 peak is alosest to match the pro-circuits. do a little more reaserch on the pipes, but i'd have to guess you would want it to peak around 8500-8700......just a guestimate, as i don't know that as a fact, but i know the procircuits are low vs. pt highs......and remember, opening transferports too much can shot citcuit the charge, as the air will be moving slower. there is a timing calculation to figure the size range of each port

did you cut 3/16" or 5mm off the nipple that you tapped for the airscrew? you need to do that or it won't lift the screw far enough. first, start checking sealing areas, such as the rubber seal under the carb caps, intake seal around the carb, you can scuff the carb with sand paper/emmery cloth, or scotch brite, to help sealing. chech the choke tube to make sure it's not cracked, rotten and seals on the carb nipples. you can pull the cable sheath back and add grease or vaseline to where it sits in the adjuster, to help keep the waqter out. now, time to sync......begain by backing the idle screws out to let the slides bottom out in the carbs with verry little to no slack, but they must hit the bottom. adjust the cables so that they hit simotaniously. next, raise the slides with the idle screws 1&3/4 turns from when they touch the slides and set the airscrews @ 1&1/2 turns from seated and you are ready to fire it up and readjust once warmmed up. it should start and idle a little high, but healthy, if your pilots are correct. once you are sure the engine is good and hot to operating temp, begain adjusting the airscrews, 1/4 turn @ a time in or out, the same oneach side, allowing 10-20 seconds for the engine to adjust to the different mixture. once it has reached the highest idle with the mixture, you can bring the idle down to where you want it. next, you re-sync while it's still running......go to your exhaust and feel the pressure and pulse. if one side is firing smoothly, and the other side has a miss, adjust the airscrew on that carb only, no more than 1/8 turn before waiting for it to catch up, but it should smooth out in real time. if one has weaker pressure coming out, raise that side idle screw untill it is even in pressures, but you may have to fine tune that airscrew, or may not. now, turn both airscrews in 1/4 turn and make sure it's still firing evenly. and high enough. and last, go back to the cable adjusters and make sure they both lift off the idle screws at the same time and you should be running smooth both @ and just off-idle. before fully syncing, you should already have your mains and needles dialed in

how far did you go with the tors removal? you get the new cable/caps/idle screw? it's normal thing when wet carbs stick. all you can do is try to keep the water out.

coolant burning will smoke, smell kind of sweet, and have some white and sometimes red on the plug. once the head gasket leaks @ the cylinder, it will never stay sealed. go buy a new one, they're cheap, and clean the mating surfaces good. retorqu after the first and third cycles, not when it starts to leak..........and follow the order

first, pick what rpm range you want out of the pipe. mid-low, mid-high, high, drag, etc....then we can get you pointed tward a pipe...also, current engine/flow mods...

colder means that you need to richen.......that being said, it sounds liker you may have oil separation going on. if you fuel is older than a few weeks, drain the tank. if it's not that old, drain it out, shake it up and puti it back in. don't forget to drain the carb bowls. what happens, is that you get a bunch of oil going in which displaces the fuel, meaning you will be running lean, but fouling the plugs. given what you described happened through the pull then going to crap, you may have melted a piston. also, are you running the lid and snorkel on the airbox? if not, you have to comphensate with jetting. another thing to look for is an airleak somewhere, staring with the intakes, they tend to crack, and you know that they are leaking if oil is in the crack, or if the nipples for the cross over are cracked. if you have fresh premix in there and it's still fouling with oil, then you can have a bad crank seal. a compression test would be a good idea also.