AKheathen

check the pickup gap and inspect the harness, especially by the exhaust. also, replace your plug caps(boots)

oh, i thaught it said 60, or less

where the hell are you buying chariot cages for 60? i'm just repeating what i was told by the same guy you're sporting.......

x2....most likely that you have a hotrods 4 mill stroker with longrods and no porting. measure the base gasket to be sure. the plate that comes with the 4mill kit is 1.5mm(.060") thick. save yourself in the longrun, and find some 22 or 23cc 4mill domes to stay on pump without porting, and ditch the spacer plate. check to see if you are ported while you are at it. not porting a stroker to match will really hold back performance, so you may want to consider that, at least when you have to rebuild

if you can find someone to rebuild for that cheap, lemmie know. remember, they have to set the jig and clock it just right during reasembly, mic everything and carefully cut the welds and use the special press tools to put the right pressures on removing square. i'm not sure i'd like a guy taking shortcuts and mess the webbing...

oh, ok....what oil are you running and do have appropriate slack in the actuator lever @ the case?

what the problem is, is what the builder will want to replace, and i've seen new bearings out of spec. you can get cranks for under 400 new, and wildcard has a new hr4mill with extra welds and maxload for 450, which is a pretty good deal as the hr pto bearing can wear out pretty easily

start by cleaning your filter and run an outterware

i'm curious as to what bad you have heard about namura.....are they machined out of spec, crack, teflon separation? i know many just call them junk because they are not wiseco, or have an asian sounding name. pro-x is just a factory replacement that cost less. the better ones i mentioned are made from better alloys and are improvements in strength, reliability, and performance. the namura complete kit is 145, btw.

i'm curious as to what bad you have heard about namura.....are they machined out of spec, crack, teflon separation? i know many just call them junk because they are not wiseco, or have an asian sounding name. pro-x is just a factory replacement that cost less. the better ones i mentioned are made from better alloys and are improvements in strength, reliability, and performance.

what you do to be sure is this- measure from the top of one of the main bearings to the top of one of the rod pins in the webbing. 6mm=stock, and 8mm=4mill before you decide to rebuild it, measure the bearing clearances. side play is ok, but you should not fel any direct play also, check the rod bearing play. same thing. and center seal wear on the thrust surfaces. that will give an initial indication if it will cost as much to rebuild as juast buying a new one.

how bad/fast is it wearing out? if it's holding a while, try the fast clutch with hd springs. you may end up needing a lockup

actually, chariot is the one who informed me about the blaster cage mod. i was going to eentually see if chariot has some blaster cages with the boysen reeds to get the ultimate least restriction at all rpm's, especially lower and mid rpm, where i would like it most, without sacraficing the upper rpms

how did you get a headlight to work on that? have you ridden it?

get your mains set first. sounds like you are a couple sizes rich...... once it's goin good @ wot operating temp, do your plug chops. next, mess with the needles to get your 1/4 ti 3/4 set right. then, you do your pilots. @ 50 degrees, you need the choke, or you are too rich. again, you are making all the adjustments @ operating temp

holly geez, i totally missed trixies' post.......first i heard about that...

that's not true....hot rods went and messed the numbers around when the switched to the newer style......old204 is stock stroke, and new=4mill. ck158 is 115mmlongrod and 121 is standard rod

you didn't fix the overflow problem........you need to clean the carbs and check the float height and float needles. the carbs leaked into the engine. if it fills enough, it will bend a rod or damage a piston from fuel suddenly filling the chamber and not compressing. yes, it has happened. when you have the carbs done, pull the plugs and kick it over fast untill it stops spitting fuel. there will also be fuel in the pipes. good practice to shut the fuel off, then kill the engine

start by looking at the bottom of the cylinders to see if there is a thick aluminum plate/gasket. you are going to have to remove that head and see what size domes are in there. roll it over to see how much the piston sticks out. once you remove the domes, the number should be stamped on the side. then we can go from there

i wouldn't mess with it too much. there is not enough gain to warent weakening the pistons and significantly decreasing the life. just match the cylinders when you are working on the flow....

wiseco, wsm, and namura are all quality pistons......there is also one from the uk, but the name escapes me right now. .040=1mill

oh, ok......i was worried that it was something like what i've been doing for years to make power........just start with a modern fine crosshatch, and break it in like you are trying to brake it. will yeild the same great seal perminently without having to drill the crown/ringland.....and it stays sealed good at idle, too

can you explain these gas ports in better detail?

blaster cage mod is what you're lloking for. you should port your stockkers, then look into the blaster cages, which can be modded to flow better than vforce banshee cages. stiffer petals will work better in the topend...

unpacking or opening them will kill the lowend and decrease the mid.......i was talking about building tuned stinger inserts........the pro-circuits will sound and perform like a strait piped big block and keep the killer midrange, with minimal low loss......plus, you can pull them out of the silencers and be a decent rider when it's apropriate to quiet it down.....and you need hearing protection to ride...