AKheathen

well, if it is a crank seal, I'd imagine that it would do it hot or cold. that being said, check the hose routing. the crank hoses should have one coming from the water pump cover and one coming from the rear of the case. those 2 "t" together into one hose by the carbs. the end of that hose should just go up by the radiator and hang out there as a breather, attached to nothing. the little hoses attached to the radiator should be separate. the one that goes to the top of the radiator, not @ the cap, goes to the top of the head, the one @ the cap goes to the bottom of the overflow bottle, and one from the top goes back up by the radiator and connects to nothing. if you mix these up, you will get coolant in your gear oil, and possibly visa-verse. if this is the case, and it's been run up to operating temp, then the gear oil should be milky sludge and oil could be floating on top of the radiator, or sludging up there after a bit, and you will have to flush both thoroughly. also, if the hoses are correct, the water pump seal can push coolant into the case as well

i run the billet adapter in my box with no lid, but still get some water in my carbs when i have to cross a creek. i also, just leave the drain cap on and dump it out every once in a while, since the box can dip into the water, too. thinking of making a high-flow snorkel/lid, but you can open it up bycutting on the channel inside the lid, so it just has the center to deflect water off the top of the filter. if you want to spend the money, there is a cfm airbox that uses a pair of pods inside, and is completely reconstructed from aluminum.

for everyone in the nothern hemisphere, you all should take note on the temperature dropsand richen your main jetting accordingly. about 1 size already from a month or 2 ago, and 2 in some cases. keep going up in size as it gets colder. not doing so, will lead to not only performance and driveability/starting issues, but could potentially cause harm to your engine. just a heads up/ reminder for all.... have an ice day

x2, great guy that really helps out fellow hq'ers. i was looking at trying to buy more of rmatv, so i could use the best code of $20 off $150, but he was able to do alot better. real stand-up guy.

X2......i used my 100 to weld up my canopy frame and it could barely keep up. the 125 can do 3/8" all day long, and 1/2" @ a much lower duty cycle. you could make a patch out of 12-14 gauge, and weld the edge. you can just watch as you are welding on the patch, and it will weld into the ajoining thinner pipe. just move in small bead sections to keep the heat down. i do it all the time

well, if the black and black/white wires are showing continuity only with the cdi hooked up, your only hope is to open the pigtail on the cdi and look for the 2 wires rubbung or shorting in some way. have you verified continuity between black and red/black @ the cdi plug in the harness? if so, you need a new cdi. they are soild state, but still can get corrosion and dry connections sometimes, and have a short internally. the quick test is to smack the cdi and see if it starts working......this is actually a test......just like a maf sensor

not as fast as you will throw money @ it.....

i just swapped out 1 of the lights for a 20 watt, and ran the other 50 that came with them. 1 spot, 1 flood. worked great....

you unplugged the tors controll module, right?. no carb wires=no idle. with the 27.5's, idle screws@ 1.75 turns from touching the slides bottomed out by slacking the cables untill they bottom, and airscrews @ 1.5 turns from seated, it should pop off and idle pretty close, if not a little high. if not, pull the plugs and see if they're getting fuel. yoou could have a plugged pilot jet, too. you could be missing the choke tube, which is the little piece of vaccuume line that connects the 2 carbs together. check that the slides are in right by pushing the throttle all the way and the dots should line up in the little windows. run through this list and she should be purring like a kitten within the hour. if not, clean them better, removing the jets and blowing compressed air through all the passages, and install the 330 mains while you're in there. remember to final tune it with the motor warmed up. i can tell you that running pipes that are too big might make you leaner than usuall on the mains, too, so be prepared to go even higher, but that should at least get you on the dyno

what is this "google"?........ ...i better go google it.

too thin for flux core? are you nuts? just need to adjust it. the little lincoln weldpack 100 i have is only used for that thin gauge steel with flux core. i can not only pull the dent and zip the crack, but fill the blowthrough, then resurface it for plating or painting. a nice mig like the miller 251 with small wire would be alot nicer and quicker without having to clen up so much spatter. if you can weld @ all, just go to a metal yard ad buy some srap of the same thickness to practice technique. turn your speed up and move with it untill it stabs back and then go back down. make sure the polarity is set for gasless, and you have a good ground, too. weld outside with good ventalation, and don't huff the fumes

well, as much as i hate to say it, maybey the procircuits aren't for you. they are a strait midrange pipe, but notorious for the lowend they give. i would still give them a shot, and then try out the t-5's. t-5's are all over and easy to move if you don't like 'em. so are the pc's. just remember to match your timing and reeds accordingly. try carbon tech mids and highs. just pedals, so you're not out 3bills. maybey snoop could step in as he has alot more info and dyno sheets, especially with the pc's on ported and strokers.

it really comes down to the cross hatch. you could get a more coarse cross hatch which you have to be carefull not to make the rings cut too fast, or you can get the newer finer crosshatch, in which case, you get in your heat cycle to torque the head, and then go strait to plug chops, to verify the jetting isn't doing harm, and to steat the ringsto the best possible seal while they are still realitively sharp enough. the hard loading will press the rings into the cylinder with more pressure.

well i usually pack a good toolkit, which happened to include a couple microtorches, files, picks, and other stuff i used, but i heated the center of the flywheel to expand the bore, and installed it on the cool crank when it was ready. only need about 200 degrees to make a kung-foo grip. rode another 10+hrs before going home.

unless you pay for the full download, it doesn't show everything, on purpose. i've doe other clutches too, so i don't remember, but i belive it's 1's on the outside and 2"s in between or visa-versa. count the steels, i don't remember if there was one against the pressure plate, before the fibre plate or not. last clutch i did was months ago on a can-am. they could all be the same. pull the motor, which is easy, remove the clutch and stator covers, which you are mostly there, and buy a clymers and a flywheel puller, which should be in stock @ your local stealership. it's pretty much the easiest case to split, just pay attention to the circlips and such when you put it together, and follow the book. it's nice not knowing if your bearings are worn but much worse depending on how you find out. if you didn't have issues, then you likely won't find anything bad, thiough, but you'll have the experience and piece of mind.

ok, what i'm abbout to suggest, i cannot gaurantee will work due to the fuel in the crankcase and i have not tried yet. i take it that it's the 2 center bearings, in that case, look into using bearing retaining compound. i belive it is compatible with fuel, but it's your discretion to use it. otherwise, i don't believe you'll ever be able to replace the pins alone, or that they will hold if you can. the outters are totally replaceable on the other hand...

well, it is NOT like the seal on your car tranny. the tranny output is similar, though. the one on your car uses the red, green, or blue coating on the outter metal part as the retaining compound/sealant. would you try to replace a pan gasket without removing the pan? look @ it this way=- 1/2hr, and you got a good look @ your bearing clearances, and potentionally find a problem that could total the motor. otherwise you will be wondering if it will leak again, or why it leaked in the first place. did it really just wear out, or was it damaged by something bigger? you can't always feel a bad bearing just by trying to move the shaft, unless at least 3 are bad, or the crank is separating. get in there and be done with it bro.

well, you really need to decide what range you want. the pro circuits will really shine with the ported 4mill over the pt's with a nasty mid to upper mid punch. they don't rev out as far, but i don't really notice as the power curve is alot wider. do you have the reeds already? as for the timing- try the curves @ 0 on the plate, then try them advanced. sometimes the curves aren't good enough by themselves, and sometimes they are.

you should clean the carbs/stator just because the water and such could pose a major problem later. however, you likely messed up the ebrake wiring, which turns on the rev limiter. unplug the wires that go to the clutch lever and it should start to rev out like normal. carb cleaning should be done every couple months anyways.. there's always water and setament in there when i do mine

got my daughter one of those pocket bike based quads. hers is called a "wolfpack atv" there's just as many parts availiable as the banshee, and dirt cheap to boot. got a big bore kit for $36, rocket key, sprocket, reeds, etc....i even ride the thing up and down the road. i still run behind her with a big rope, but she tars it up. hardest was finding a nice xs helmet, and getting her used to not going "super dooper fast" on the banshee. when she grows out of that and can reach the shifter/brake, i have a little 90cc raptor clone for her, then who knows after that.....she'll probably get the blaster. then, of coarse, a shee that goes "duper fast"

imho, the pro-circuits will take the 4mill and your porting better and make more power. you probably want to get your carbs closer to 30's. just play with the curves to see what one you like best. the clutch needs hd springs minimum and better fibres, or a lockup. you can go either way on the reeds. you're already ported for the upper midrange, so you can either go with the vf's or the carbon fibre boysen pedals, or corbon tech mids.

if all it is, is a coil pulling a metal shaft in, then it doesn't matter the type of current. it would only matter if it's a directional winding. that's why when they do label them, most say 12/24v ac/dc. good piont, though about the brake. all we do @ the track is pinch the line, but i'm sure ou could just find a plug or new fitting where the line splits.

pocket bike carb won't work? i believe those are 12or 13mm and come in conventional and metering block style

did it happen from install, or while running?

the stator has enough juice, and conventional relays and solenoids accept both a/c and d/c, unless it's multi-directional via polarity. basically, standard on-off works fine.