AKheathen

add some to that extra 100 and buy a set of pipes and jets....you MUST get jets with any flow change. it'snot a performanc mod, but a nescesity. the three biggest gains in power are pipes, porting, and stroking. you can sometimes find a decent used set below 150. the best free thing you can do is ot take shortcuts....the banshee is not as forgiving as your smallblock chevy. be patient with the screws and bolts and use penatrant, as they will nickle and dime you. you can upen up the flow on the inside of the lid by trimming the runner sides open, or cut the lid open, leaving just enough to clamp 2 clamps, while holding the filter in place. you will have to richen the mains 1-2 sizes for the lid mod, so it's not free, just cheap jets.

haha, you misspelled chevrolet. twice, even

what about the tail lights?

....kenda bear claw...check 'em out. i run 22/12/9 in all terrai, and i mean all terrain. they have side lugs for when your really diggin in.

looks like you baught nos. (new old stock) it happens when manufacturers change part numbers, based on something about classifying the product. the new item with p/n 2472 is the 13psi import, while the old item with the 2472 is the domestic cap. since not all old stock is sold, retailers may still sell the nos under the same part#. same thing if you were to buy 02 caliper brackets, or you will notice it on hotrod cranks.

65mm is your bore size (1mm over) and, i belive 42mm is the pin spacing.

ooh, yah, looks like there's plenty meat yet...pm me your paypal addy

the twin row carrier sounds like a real nice setup, however, moving to tapered roller bearings is probably the best, due to the side loads placed on the bearings. no mater what you do, i would suggest addition of a grease zirc to the center of the carrier and swingarm pivot. make sure to remove any plastic bearing seals on the bearings, so that grease can work through it,not around it.

if you are currently assembling the crank assembly, then go ahead and finish tightening it up just a little, if you can squeeze the extra >.009 out, but if it has been running that way previously, or you don't have the means to be that precise, then leave it alone and weld it that way. although, it doesn't sound like you are an experienced crank builder (no offense) in which case, i would just leave it as not to risk going too far, and having to figure out how to spread it again and further weaken the interferance fit. it's well within spec already.

where your problem lies is the foreward camber angle. the further the lower ball joint is in front of the upper, the harder it will be to steer. this is because the weight is placed behind the pivot axis of the ball joints. the greater angle improves cornering, while making it harder to turn. inward casterwill also have an effect on turning

i was hoping to get a pic of the splines and seal surface....thanx

ah, you shit!!!!

just bend it strait and run it......

haha, yah, i said under the cylinders, which i don't see.....i do see vforce reeds and reed spacers. the spacers really aren't needed for stock carbs, though. unported, 20cc's are on the cusp of pump fuel, where 21's are completely safe sea level. on ported motors and higher elevations, you can go smaller, yet. you will have to calculate your compression ratio, by calculateing deck height, bore, crown, and distance from the deck to the top of the exhaust. you might even be able to run 19's. the top of your pistons should say either std, or have a number stamped on it.

i wouldn't run them on a ported motor, as it will mess with the set timings. only run them as a cheap way to cheat on the exhaust durration with stock porting

best to buy a bearing puller, to prevent damaging the crank. if you already have some regular pullers, that will help, and all you have to buy is the plates for like 35. heat up the new bearing to over 200 degrees, and slide it on. it will press/interfereance fit when it cools, alot better than trying to press/beat it on.

i wouldn't recomend an inline filter, as it will become a liability to slow the flow down on a long pull, and lean you out, if you don't keep on top of it. the fuel screns in the tank are prety fine, just shut the fuel off when not in use and drain the bowls once in a while, or durring storage.

damn, quebec is fucked....i'd leave that bitch and move west. if you are up for it, the mull impellar is definately a better and more reliable mod than stock, realatively cheap, too. just buy the stock head gasket from the dealer

you never want to cut out the center support. it keeps the large pedal from flexing/deforming. you can, however narrow it down significantly, and remove the rubber near the tip to keep it open. the big things are to really open the windows down to the screw holes, leaving 2mm of material around the screw holes. the nose rib should be long and narrow for higher rpms, and more steep for lower/mid rpm's. the biggest gain on ported stockkers is relieving the area that the petals coushin against, allowing them to seal a little quicker. tha graph, is great for portraying the vforce cage, vs the stock/pyramid on a drag ported motor, but that's not what is in question here. and there is a point where the engine reahes it's resonant flow, close to peak rpm's, that the reeds are open almost all the time, and the reed assembly merely becomes a restriction in the flow path. in this case, nearly 2x the opening area will definately flow better. the point of the chariot setups is not simply to keep up or compete against vforce cages, but to emphisize on the low to mid-high flow for those looking for a vforce level alternative in non-drag/topend builds. yes, vforce provides gains all over, same with chariot cages, but vforce is best for mid-top, while charriot is best for mid low, when compared. the chariot setup, ultimately is based on a stck sized cage and pedal selection, therefore incapible of flowing enough for builds larger than 4mill and once again becomes a greater restriction than the vforce cages. this is where the blaster cage comes into play. it can be set to run with power or pro reds to emphisize the mid or low improvements, while keeping a larger flow area @ higher rpm's the screw holes will have to be moved either on the cages, if possible, or intakes. i'm ordering a set off ebay to measure up. i'm sure there is a chart out there somewhere, and if i can't find it, i'm not going out and buying vforces just to run on a dyno. i'd rather put that money elsewhere.

take this opertunity to pick a quality premix and tranny oil, so it will be used to running that oil as long as you own it. wait to pick the pipes untill you have had a while to get used to the power and it will begain to bug you where you want it to have more power in the rpm range. research the different pipes. the pipes are the biggest first mod gain. build it up in stages as it will keep putting a smile on your face with each mod. buy one of those ebay jet kits

can you get me pics of the rear brake hub?

hey, i'm interested in swomething just like this for a mini-sled i'm building. can you get measurements on the main engine assembly? what you looking for in trade?

well, first, you are probably going to have to change out the fuel with some fresh premix. go buy a head gasket and remove the head and inspect if the gasket is leaking. you will have to drain all the coolant. replace the head gasket with a new one always. next, remove the water pump cover and check to see if you can turn the impellar by hand or wiggle it upand down, if it does, you have a problem. next, roll the engine over and make sure the impellar is turning with the engine. put it back together. the torque sequence is on the head. the book says 20, but that's sometimes not good enough for initial torque. i do it @ 10 ft/lbs, then again @25-30. you have to retorqe it after a few heat cycles. what is the crap about not being allowed pipes? i've heard of sound and forrestry regulations, which there is silencers made for that. you can paint some paul turners to look like stock pipes....

here's a thaught- how old is the gas? most premixes will separate after a while, and old gas will break down and smoke pretty damn good. first thing to do when you buy a banshee is maintenance, which involves cleaning the carbs and changing all the fluids, including all the gas.

hey man, i'm still trying to wrap my head around how those pistons could possibly make that much more power, especially against a coated piston,vs. that bare skirt......are the ring lands ported? is the intake windows modified? just wondering. oh, yah, is that you in the testimonial?.......btw, i'm going with these pistons for my build....wsm teflon in my experience, teflon skirting has always made a difference you can feel.