AKheathen

well, i know most people actually do just connect to the coil, no problem. however, if you cannot attain piece of mind with it that way, then just hook it to the black/white wire, so you won't be thinking about it while you ride........it's just as safe either way....

i work the mine on big ass tractor/trailers, i also have wife, daghter, mother-in-law, to support/entertain....my back is so messed up i need to stay so fucked up on pain killers that only take the edge off that i can hardly function, but still do. the way i see it, you have 6hrs of personal time, provided you sleep the whole 8 hrs. not saying your day is loaded or you don't deserve help, i just don't respond well to whining....... why no internet? i'd be taking my kids to mcplayland and surfing, if you have a laptop. just a suggestion. so, what were we talking about?

i work 7-12's and still have a couple hous each night and in the morning to get on here, and read, rebuild my laptop, repair sterios, etc.......and i need at least 8 hrs..............just sayin

check where they sell pocket bikes....should have them like 4-500 new

we gonna get more?

"gripped too much on snow".......................................................ok, now i'm confused.......... i can't say i've ever had that problem.

ok, that article is a little extreme. the filter does not make that big of a difference. simplist thing is to run your box with a k&n and put your lid on to richen it up

once again, measure from when the port opens on the downward stroke, untill it closes on the upward stroke .......read the books! you can also find the specs on your pipes online

do you wear aviators, by chance? a guy came in yesturday wearing them........i almost fell off the couch laughing ..........

start by removing the clutch cover and check out your basket gear. it should be pretty tight. you can see all the primary gearing and such. if you can't see anything, you can pull the whole engine and pull just the bottom case half. there is a recent thread on that in here. then, you can see everything. pick up a clymers and some yamabond/threebond, and you can safely get it apart and back together.

bump for a great deal

just what i was always told. they have to be cut, pressed, trued, and rewelded eac time, which not only wears on the pressed surfaces, but the properties of the metal change from the welding. they just found that it holds well with 2 rebuilds after the inital welded build, but not so much after the third round. not to say it can't or hasn't been done, but if the crank builders wouldn't trust it, neither would i.

doberman?

once a crank is welded, it can only be rebuilt twice. it des matter if bending the rod did any damage to the crank, though.

well, can you describe the pop and chatter a little better? was it like a backfire, or more mechanical, like you could feel it in the bike. when you say chatter, all that comes to mind is a shimmy feeling. is it more of a rattle? pinging noise in the pipes? any more discriptive would help. it could be as simple as your chain/sprocket/hubs, or it could be worse..... have you checked the jetting? btw, it took me 8 hours untill the board would let me post this reply......sorry

usually just an adjustment on the airscrews, if any, untill you get a bit below freezing. i belive it was around 0 that the pilot was jumping a bit. i.e.....27.5 down to 10-20, then 30 down to -5 to -10, but can vary a little with different fuels. you can tell by the airscrew adjustments where the pilots need to be.

use a long piece of hose and stick it to your ear, then use the other end to pinpoint the noise by searching the engine and exhaust. i'm tellin you that an exhaust leak will sound just like a lifter tick. bad reeds will sound from the filter/airbox

i used that messy shit for a while, then i just started spraying wd40. much better and keeps it looking clean

check for exhaust leaks

voltage regulator not working

psh, i've been up north for weeks, and just termination dust. barely starting to stay frozen. don't have a decent sled anymore anyways. i baught a banshee instead....

you need to run dc conversion with a battery to power hid ballasts

i cut the stock plu off and cut down the pigtails that came with the lights, so i can still unplug via the bullet connectors. i also grabbed up the big round blue walmart lights which take h3 bulbs, and run 2 sets, so it kinda looks the same as stock. i mostly use the bullet lights, and have one of the other ones on high beam.

just a headsup- i've heard a few times that the spacers alone have caused issues in the higher rmps, when installed between the cylinders and reeds. no runability issues, and something like .2-.4hp in the lower rpms, but install them on the carb side of the reeds. but, as said, they are for clearancing the carbs, not performance.....

i just hope people will read and take this into consideration before posting 100 "running funny" or "why did my piston melt" threads. rule of thumb is up 1 size main for every drop of about 25 degrees fahrenheit, but it's about 15 degrees per, once you hit the 35-5 temp range, due to the dramatic humidity differences