fastbanshee199

Its on my 2001 ranger ext cab 2 wd xlt model. Its made by Gaylord bed covers. covers over the side of the bed also. Its black so it will match any black ranger of the same model. i can take measurements if needed and i will post pics tomorrow if anyone is interested. its there x2000 series bedcover and has the hide a key. Also has the ez clamp system and doesnt require any drilling or tools to mount on bed. its in excellent shape but i cant remove it by myself to go ride, you need two people to remove it as its bulky and heavy ( obviously ) asking 450 obo. maybe willing to ship but might be pretty pricey.

I just rebuilt my top end about a month ago and ran Amsoil Interceptor oil and almost 10 tanks later, no problems

How are the bowls different? They look exactly the same.....?

I have toomey t5's, kn pods with no air box and im running 320 mains. im about 1100 ft above sea level. in the 60's and 70's range

Well i figured out why it wasnt running on the left cylinder. It was flooding out with fuel. LOL why do you ask? Well i just rebuilt the carbs and the guy i bought the carb bodies from told me it had 25 pilots in them and i dont need to replace them. THERE WAS NO PILOT JET IN THE LEFT CARB. I put it in and its fine. two top end rebuilds in two days. im running 320 mains right now, third clip, and 25 pilots and its running TITS. i did 3 heat cycles today and rode it for over 60 miles today and no problems so far. plugs are a good brown paper bag color. Thanx for all the help guys!!!!

**UPDATE*** I called and spoke to the owner at RATV. They basically bored and honed my cylinders again and gave me a new top end kit. Apparently i should of been running atleast 310's for mains if not 320's. So i just got done putting everything back together again and its running but it seems to only be running on the right side now. Both have 125 psi of compression on the cylinders. the right side pipe gets hot and at normal temp, the left side stays cold. i checked the plugs ( by the way it has 320 mains in it right now) and the right side was pretty dark and left side looks like it only fired a couple times ( the plug is still white with a very small spot where i think it fired a few times) and is wet. there is also fuel/oil IN the left side pipe as well. I verified spark. now im stuck yet again i dont understand why is wouldnt fire on that side. and again leak down confirmed no air leaks.

I did a total of four heat cycles first one was in garage until it got up to temp and then let it cool off completely. all ran for 15 min AFTER is up to normal operating temperature and then i would let it cool completely after each time. First was just idling and lightly blipping the throttle no more than 1/4 every time. i adjust limiter at top of throttle housing so i didnt go over. Second. i rode it only till 1/4 throttle varying it . Third. rode it up to 1/2 throttle varying it Forth. rode it all the way up to 3/4 throttle I never left it pinned for more then 2-3 seconds I pulled the cylinders off late last night and i will remove the pistons today clean them with parts cleaner and take some more pics I havent found any pieces anywhere. the oil however that was in there was a pretty dark grey color. hopefully i can afford to have kevin take the engine apart and check everything and i may have him just do a 4 mill 68 bore kit and some port work. ill know on monday when i can call and get some prices

I didnt have time for HJR to do the work otherwise i would have kevin do it. Now i really wish i had just waited and canceled the trip and him do the work. IF this is a bore/hone error, is there anyway to prove it? Also im not sure this is normal but the side that has the burnt piston, on the dome its black and has some really sticky residue on it?

I didnt bother removing those bolts because im gonna pull the motor and send to kevin at hjr to check the crank and rods.Im not sure if the ports were chamfered, i took the cylinders to Ratv here in phoenix to bore and hone them. I checked ring gap to what wiseco specified on the sheet and they all looked good I had the cylinders bored and honed and they told me it was only the next size up and that they looked really good I did do a leak down and never saw any leaks. I left it pressurized for around 10 mins and stayed the same the whole time so i figured it was good. Does anyone know what could of caused this?

I tried figuring this out basically on my own with getting it ready. The plugs looked good, i did a leak down test today and i never saw any leaks, ANYWHERE. I had a little help from Meat but that was it. This was my first top end rebuild on the quad and it's a 2002. I did 3 heat cycles on the bike, checked torque on all fasteners, rode it for no more then 3 miles and........... well ill let the pics explain the rest.

Brass washers are there, its on its third heat cycle right now, and i just checked torque on all the bolts. The plugs i have are the normal br8es, are you recomending i go with a non resistor plug? i doubled checked connector and crossover tubes and there good. I removed the tors system before the top end rebuild. It did idle before the rebuild, and jetting was the same. I had my local banshee shop here bore and hone the cylinders. The stator and timing are stock. Air filters are brand new. Gas is maybe a week old if that. Last night i took the plugs out and they are about a dark chocolate color.

Anyone? i took the carbs apart and made sure float level was set right also. The needles were from a rebuild kit i bought and they were different number then the silver other ones that are in there so i put the silver ones back in and have them set at the third clip from the top. This seemed to help a lot and now it doesnt bog down but up to a quater throttle it feels like the left side isnt firing but after 1/4 throttle it kicks in. i checked sync on them and the slides are moving at the exact same time but im confused about the window adjustment and how to adjust from there. can ANYONE help me out?

I havent done a leak down test yet. I just rebuilt the top end because it only had about 85 psi and it was factory since 2002. Mods Are: Toomey t5's K&N pods TORS removal kit Jetting Stock carbs 290 mains i beleive 28 pilots? it has a square type thing and then 2.8? Needle is on third clip from the top My elevation is around 1100-1200 ft and air temp here right now is in the 60-70's Air screw is at 1 1/2 turns This is what the bike is doing. i havent done a leak down yet because i havent had time to go to home depot and buy the things ill need for it. I just rebuilt the top end last night. My problem is the bike idles but when i put it in gear it bogs down and dies. when i pull the choke it it seems to run fine. i checked the choke tube to both carbs and its connected with no holes or cracks. So it seems like im getting to much fuel and its bogging down and dieing. I just took the bike to emissions and it passed so i could make it street legal. they only do an idle test here for 2 stroke engines. Does anyone have any suggestions? I need some help as im leaving in a few hours for the dunes. I cant do a plug shop because i cant get it to move so thats out of it too lol. Thanks Guys

Setting spell check for kill .......

you still have the reeds? how much to 85032? i can paypal tonight but i really need these by friday at the latest so 2 day air i guess?